2014 Sonata Turbo First Oil Change

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3
Location
SW Florida
This is my first post on the Forum. I have been a lurker for a long time seeking advice. I just completed my first oil change at 3000 miles on my 2014 Sonata Turbo. Hyundai is driving me crazy with their specs. First I found the oil had been over filled by about a quart from the factory. Next the manual says to use 5 quarts which I did using Mobil 1 5w30 and a Hyundai OEM filter. After putting in 5 quarts and running the engine, I checked the dip stick and found it to be almost a quart low. It seems Hyundai keeps changing the specs. The owners manual says 5 quarts. On the Hyundai website is two recommendations 4.8 and 5.3 quarts. Also there was no factory crush washer on the drain plug. I remember reading somewhere about different color dip sticks and oil capacities. Mine has an orange handle. Does anyone of the gurus here have any info. I will have to stop at Wallyword and pick up another quart to top off the oil to full. Also I bought two 5 quart jugs pf Mobil 1 at Walmart ($22.66) each and am going to try for the rebate. No big deal if it fails. This is the first time I have changed my own oil which was a snap compared to my old 07 Sonata V-6. Great forum here and thanks in advance for any advice. WCW
 
Messages
29
Location
Texas
I read someting about the dipstick once, but I don't remember where? It I remember right the orange dipstick was supposed to be 4.8 while the yellow was 5.3. Remember, I can not prove that this is 100% correct. One thing I do know about the Sonata. If I check my oil under the carport It shows its overfull. The carport is not perfectly level. When I check it when its parked at work (which is level) it shows just slightly under the full mark. The car has to be level. I only put 4.5 quarts in mine. Also wait 5 minutes before checking the level. By the way, I backed it in under the car port, it showed low. Mine is not a turbo Sonata. I don't know if that makes a difference.
 
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Messages
543
Location
Illinois
I've owned several new Hyundai's before my current fleet. I've never seen one that didn't have a crush washer on the oil drain plug. Hyundai likes to paint the edge of the drain plug washer Black so it looks like it's part of the drain plug.
 

WCW1

Thread starter
Messages
3
Location
SW Florida
Originally Posted By: wrf01a
I read someting about the dipstick once, but I don't remember where? It I remember right the orange dipstick was supposed to be 4.8 while the yellow was 5.3. Remember, I can not prove that this is 100% correct. One thing I do know about the Sonata. If I check my oil under the carport It shows its overfull. The carport is not perfectly level. When I check it when its parked at work (which is level) it shows just slightly under the full mark. The car has to be level. I only put 4.5 quarts in mine. Also wait 5 minutes before checking the level. By the way, I backed it in under the car port, it showed low. Mine is not a turbo Sonata. I don't know if that makes a difference.
Thanks for the reply. Another point on the over fill. The dip stick actually has a light stain on it about an inch above the full mark. That was where the oil level showed on the dip stick when I checked it before the oil change. I have also been advised to to call Hyundai corporate and report the overfill as this can possibly be more damaging than low oil.
 
Messages
29
Location
Texas
My thinking is this, as long as the oil is between the marks its fine. Also overfilling is bad and it should be avoided. My Sonata calls for 4.8 quarts, its so much easier for me to add 4.5, its between the marks its fine.
 
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825
Location
TX
Orange dipstick = 5.28 QTS Yellow dipstick = 4.86 QTS I can confirm this. I believe but can't confirm that orange indicates a Korean built engine.
 
I'm guessing that the crush washer probably stuck to the oil pan when you removed the plug--not the end of the world, but it could leak--check it after a few miles to make sure the plug isn't loosening up (because you may now have TWO crush washers in place.
 
So much drama over potentially a non issue. I say potentially because so far we have not seen any evidence of the engine being overfilled, i.e. signs of oil foaming. If the oil is not foaming up, meaning the crank is not hitting the oil, it is not overfilled, it is that simple. Fill the oil to the full mark and stop worrying about it.
 
Messages
29
Location
Texas
Originally Posted By: maximus
Orange dipstick = 5.28 QTS Yellow dipstick = 4.86 QTS I can confirm this. I believe but can't confirm that orange indicates a Korean built engine.
Please post a link to where you found this information, my Sonata has an orange dipstick and it hold only 4.8 quarts. Anyone reading this, so far there is NO confirmed information that proves dipstick color indicates the amount of oil the Sonata engine holds.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
So much drama over potentially a non issue. I say potentially because so far we have not seen any evidence of the engine being overfilled, i.e. signs of oil foaming. If the oil is not foaming up, meaning the crank is not hitting the oil, it is not overfilled, it is that simple. Fill the oil to the full mark and stop worrying about it.
I agree, fill it to the full mark and stop. There is a lot of info about the dipstick color, but so far nothing from Hyundai. So as far as I'm concerned its just another one of those internet rumors with no proof, kind of like the Fram Filter thing
 
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825
Location
TX
Don't have link, but someone made a post quoting a service advisor. I'll try to fins the link Perhaps 5.28 is only on turbo models.
 
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2,393
Location
Paradise of Florida
I use 4.8 in my non-turbo 2.4 I'd wager that the turbo gets more oil. Use 5.3 and verify level. I wouldn't purposely run low on oil with turbo temps and DI fuel dilution. Consider a synth 40 grade quart for that topoff since you need more than a jug.
 
Messages
14,023
Location
Kendall, FL
Both Hyundai in my signature, one a 2.0T and the other a 2.4, take 5qts. Both show oil level right at the "full" line when changing. No difference what so ever. Use full syn if you'd like but it isn't necessary in any Hyundai. Even conventional SN/GF-5 was designed with turbo protection in mind and Hyundai only require SM/ GF-4.
 
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133
Location
Rochelle Park, NJ
I've never owned a Hyundai, but originally VW didn't require synthetic oil for their 1.8T powered cars. We all know how well that worked out for them. For any turbo car, I'd stick with synthetic oil. The difference in cost is worth it when you think about the added heat and pressure a turbo adds.
 
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28,123
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Originally Posted By: nolesfan
I've never owned a Hyundai, but originally VW didn't require synthetic oil for their 1.8T powered cars. We all know how well that worked out for them.
The biggest problem with VW/Audi at the time, and other German manufacturers, was the use of rather optimistic OCIs on API oil. My Audi Turbo had 12,500 km severe service intervals, which I'd consider a little optimistic, at least with a generic API oil, particularly back then.
 
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14,023
Location
Kendall, FL
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: nolesfan
I've never owned a Hyundai, but originally VW didn't require synthetic oil for their 1.8T powered cars. We all know how well that worked out for them.
The biggest problem with VW/Audi at the time, and other German manufacturers, was the use of rather optimistic OCIs on API oil. My Audi Turbo had 12,500 km severe service intervals, which I'd consider a little optimistic, at least with a generic API oil, particularly back then.
+1 Garak My 2001 A4 1.8T ran on SL not SN... wink S" Status Service Gasoline Engines SN Introduced October 2010 Category SM were ntroduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85 SM Introduced on 30 November 2004 Category SM oils are designed to provide improved oxidation resistance, improved deposit protection, better wear protection, and better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil. Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC specification and/or qualify as Energy Conserving. They may be used where API Service Category SJ and SL earlier categories are recommended. SL 2001 Gasoline Engine Service Category SL was adopted to describe engine oils for use in 2001. It is for use in service typical of gasoline engines in present and earlier passenger cars, sports utility vehicles, vans and light trucks operating under vehicle manufacturers recommended maintenance procedures. Oils meeting API SL requirements have been tested according to the American Chemistry Council (ACC) Product Approval Code of Practice and may utilize the API Base Oil Interchange and Viscosity Grade Engine Testing Guidelines. They may be used where API Service Category SJ and earlier categories are recommended..
 
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WCW1

Thread starter
Messages
3
Location
SW Florida
Originally Posted By: maximus
Orange dipstick = 5.28 QTS Yellow dipstick = 4.86 QTS I can confirm this. I believe but can't confirm that orange indicates a Korean built engine.
FWIW, I found a service card in the glove box that says 5.3 quarts and 3000 miles for the first oil change and every 5000 after that. So maybe an Orange dipstick really does = 5.28 QTS Thanks for the input
 
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28,123
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Originally Posted By: wemay
My 2001 A4 1.8T ran on SL not SN... wink
I think mine was closer to SJ. Conventional works fine for turbos, if so specified, within reason. Specifying "conventional" wasn't what got VW/Audi into trouble; it was not appropriately matching the oil specification, the OCI, and the application. It lasted forever and a day, despite some minor coking. The previous owner didn't do his own services, as I recall, and likely just took it into the dealer for Castrol GTX or whatever they had every 12,500 km.
 
Messages
14,023
Location
Kendall, FL
Originally Posted By: Garak
Conventional works fine for turbos, if so specified, within reason.
Excactly.
 
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