2014 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L 120k mi; QS 10w-30 4.5k mi

[cwilliamsws6]

With my last OCI I finished up my old stock Quaker State API SJ 10W30 I had on hand.

I had about 4500 miles this time, which included a decent amount of towing plus "spirited" driving.

The results this time seem concerning so I'm interested in what you guys think.

Picture attached.

 

[OVERKILL]

That's a decent spike in silicon/copper/lead, which may mean a particle streak in a bearing. How's the integrity of your air intake tract?

 

[fantastic]

oof not looking great. Dump it or run it till it doesn't. 50 grade in the meantime. It could last quite some time more or start knocking tomorrow I couldn't tell you but keep testing. It is showing a trend that is quickly escalating though. PB is main bearings & or connecting rod bearings.

 

[Chris142]

How many quarts does this engine hold?

 

[cwilliamsws6]

That's a decent spike in silicon/copper/lead, which may mean a particle streak in a bearing. How's the integrity of your air intake tract?

Everything looks fine

How many quarts does this engine hold?

5

 

[OVERKILL]

Everything looks fine


5

OK, so no signs of dust upstream of the filter?

 

[Ayrton]

Is the same oil in there now?

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Is the same oil in there now?

No, right now I'm running super s multi flo 10w30 syn blend

 

[cwilliamsws6]

OK, so no signs of dust upstream of the filter?

I'll have to pull it apart tomorrow and look, but from the outside everything looks fine

 

[JAG]

Was this oil decades old? If so, I wouldn’t use any oil that old. Possible dirt ingestion is the other concern but it doesn’t explain the high copper in your previous UOA.

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Was this oil decades old? If so, I wouldn’t use any oil that old. Possible dirt ingestion is the other concern but it doesn’t explain the high copper in your previous UOA.

Yes, decades old. Both UOAs were using this old oil. I don't have any more in my stash and my current OCI is with newer oil.

 

[FowVay]

Crawl under that thing and check out your oil cooler. It's the big round thing that the oil filter threads onto. You might have the beginnings of a failing oil cooler which is leaching the subject metals into the oil. These have copper and lead (brazing metal) in their assembly and if that thing is starting to corrode then you will see it in the oil first.

It's just one more thing to consider.

 

[Ayrton]

No, right now I'm running super s multi flo 10w30 syn blend

I hate spending lots on UOAs, but the end of this change, or the one after, see if things are doing better or at least not getting worse.

I don't think it's a given that you have a problem, things could be ok!

 

[The Critic]

Help us understand your logic here:

You spent $45 (std analysis + TBN) to analyze some ancient oil that was not suitable for your GDI engine and may or may not have caused accelerated wear.

For the $45 you could have easily purchased 10 quarts of API SP/GF-6 oil (may be even synthetic) that would have better protected your engine.

Now you aren't sure if the engine truly has an issue or if the added wear is from your old oil.

 

[350Rocket]

Was this oil decades old? If so, I wouldn’t use any oil that old. Possible dirt ingestion is the other concern but it doesn’t explain the high copper in your previous UOA.

Yeah I'm thinking this could be the oil. After watching some experiments with older oil the additives had fallen out of suspension and shaking it up did not put them back. I'd avoid saving oil more than a year or two now after seeing that.

 

[Artem]

Help us understand your logic here:

You spent $45 (std analysis + TBN) to analyze some ancient oil that was not suitable for your GDI engine and may or may not have caused accelerated wear.

For the $45 you could have easily purchased 10 quarts of API SP/GF-6 oil (may be even synthetic) that would have better protected your engine.

Now you aren't sure if the engine truly has an issue or if the added wear is from your old oil.

There’s no Logical Explanation here.

This is simply a PERFECT example of using the WRONG OIL (and being OLD Oil on top of that) in a modern engine.

I personally applaud the OP for sacrificing his poor engine for our enjoyment and education.

Now let’s confirm what we already suspect to put a nail in this oil barrel…

OP needs to flush the engine with PROPER oil and then drive the same mileage and retest to see if wear drops off to normal.

 

[addyguy]

The problem is not the oil; we’ve seen lots of UOA’s on very old oil that were fine.
Look at the spike in SI - 2 to 34! A LOT of dirt got in, and is wearing the bearings!
This is not rocket science to analyze, people!

 

[Triple_Se7en]

This oil produced terrible results for that engine. Was saving $23 for a five quart jug of QS 10w30 with SP cert really worth the lack of wear protection this outdated SJ cert with old, weakened additives handed your engine bearings?

Had this been a four banger Theta 2 engine, it probably doesn't survive the 4500 miles run.
Treat your engine as you would treat your family members.

 

[Ayrton]

The problem is not the oil; we’ve seen lots of UOA’s on very old oil that were fine.
Look at the spike in SI - 2 to 34! A LOT of dirt got in, and is wearing the bearings!
This is not rocket science to analyze, people!

Except that the wear was still pretty high on previous fill when silicon was much slower.

 

[CleverUserName]

I’m using 9 year old oil in my truck right now. I shake it up first and it’s fine.

Did anybody notice this sample has hardly any calcium? 171 ppm.