2013 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0T - Amsoil 5w30 vs 5w40 vs 0w40

[H. Swanson]

Owned since new. 115K miles. Car manual says 5w20, 10w30 or 5w30. Oil cap says 5w30. Apparently, a TSB came out several years ago saying 5w40 will provide better protection for these turbo engines, which makes sense. For about a year now, I've been using Amsoil SS 5w30 (used M1 5w30 before that) with OCI between 3,000 and 4,000 miles about every 5-6 months. Car manual says 3 months or 3K miles for Severe OCI. I'm trying to baby these engines given their history.

I want to stick with Amsoil SS given I've been very pleased with how smooth and quiet my car runs. However, Amsoil only makes 5w40 in a European formula (not SS), and they make a 0w40 in SS. I live in TN. Should I stick with 5w30 SS or go with 0w40 SS or switch to 5w40 given I don't need the 0 winter weight?

Adding @Pablo as our resident Amsoil guru.

 

[Pablo]

I would go either the 0W-40 of 5W-40. That TSB surprises me, therefore run with it!!

 

[H. Swanson]

I would go either the 0W-40 of 5W-40. That TSB surprises me, therefore run with it!!

Why does it surprise you? I do know that the 2015's manual says 5w40 is an option, just not in my 2013. They detuned the turbo for less HP in 2015 too I believe.

Are the Euro and SS formulas close enough in quality? I noticed they're the same price

 

[JavierH19]

This reminds me of that goss garage fool.

 

[Pablo]

Why does it surprise you? I do know that the 2015's manual says 5w40 is an option, just not in my 2013. They detuned the turbo for less HP in 2015 too I believe.

Are the Euro and SS formulas close enough in quality? I noticed they're the same price

Only in the rarity these days for any Asian engine to be above 100°C cSt 11 or so.

I doubt you would notice a difference in the two.

 

[SHOZ]

The issue with my 2L turbo, though not the same engine, is fuel dilution. So a heavier oil last a bit longer. I went 5k on 5w30 and oil test always came back OK but fuel dilution. It will make oil over 5k mile OCI and be about a1/8 -1/4 quart over full.

 

[nicholas]

Why does it surprise you? I do know that the 2015's manual says 5w40 is an option, just not in my 2013. They detuned the turbo for less HP in 2015 too I believe.

Are the Euro and SS formulas close enough in quality? I noticed they're the same price

The detune was in 2019.

 

[H. Swanson]

The issue with my 2L turbo, though not the same engine, is fuel dilution. So a heavier oil last a bit longer. I went 5k on 5w30 and oil test always came back OK but fuel dilution. It will make oil over 5k mile OCI and be about a1/8 -1/4 quart over full.

Are you sticking with 5w30 or did you try 5w40 due to dilution?

 

[Cujet]

In warm climates, choosing the more robust oil, one less likely to shear (narrower viscosity spread) is likely to be a smart choice. Here in South Florida, I'd pick a high quality 5W-40 and never look back.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I want to stick with Amsoil SS given I've been very pleased with how smooth and quiet my car runs. However, Amsoil only makes 5w40 in a European formula (not SS), and they make a 0w40 in SS. I live in TN. Should I stick with 5w30 SS or go with 0w40 SS or switch to 5w40 given I don't need the 0 winter weight?

Adding @Pablo as our resident Amsoil guru.

Move up in small increments and try to keep the smooth and the quiet. Get the SS 0w40 SP. It's fine for your climate year-round and it's thick 14.8cst@100.
That means you have a ton of room for fuel dilution / shear and still maintain a thick 30w in 3-4k.

The 5w40 is a gas-diesel oil that's the old SN Standard...... outdated by SN Plus and SP.When if 5/10w30 and 0w40 stop pleasing you, then try the 5w40.
I own both a Kia and a Hyundai. They seem to like 10w30, 0w40 and 0w30 Euro. My one venture into 5w40 Quaker State Euro with the Kia 2.0MPI produced increased engine chatter. That surprised me - being the QS 5W40 Euro has the SP Standard

I needed to mention the 10w30 because most Hyundai and Kia four cylinder of 2012-2019 like 10w30 - respond well to it.

 

[edyvw]

I would go Amsoil 5W30 AEL. Lower KV100, robust HTHS at 3.6 (Mobil1 0W40 API SN had HTHS 3.6) and Noack 7.1%.

 

[H. Swanson]

I would go Amsoil 5W30 AEL. Lower KV100, robust HTHS at 3.6 (Mobil1 0W40 API SN had HTHS 3.6) and Noack 7.1%.

When you say AEL, do you mean Amsoil Extended Life?

Edit: nevermind…I realize you meant the Euro line.

 

[SHOZ]

Are you sticking with 5w30 or did you try 5w40 due to dilution?

No I ran 0w40 most of the time after that. Now on 5w40.

 

[H. Swanson]

No I ran 0w40 most of the time after that. Now on 5w40.

Did you notice a drop in dilution?

 

[Resyek83]

I have a 2012 Optima 2.0T, I'm a tech at the local Kia dealership. I know Hyundai model changes usually happened right around a year or so before Kia, (so a 2013 model Hyundai has to be compared to a 2014 Kia model for example) but a 2013 Santa Fe 2.0T should be the same or simliar to our Sportage(?) model which was available with the same 2.0T engine. I use Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 in mine. Owners manual says 5w30 or 0w-30, or 5w-40. I would assume this mean a 0w-40 would be acceptable since 0w-30 or 5w-40 are listed.

I wouldnt worry too much about Euro oil standards, the ACEA A3/B3/B4 specs are harder for our regular US market oils to meet, most of those oils are double duty Gasoline/diesel type oils in Europe. Some of them require a higher HTHS viscosity which should help rod bearing lubrication and durability. Main thing to watch out is just never let it get more than a half quart low. Some of these theta engines have a very strong oil pump that will pump the sump dry if its too low, wonder how much of that is leading to the rod bearing issues that's plagued the design for a while now.

I change mine 3k/3months no matter what, I barely drive 7 miles to work so frequent short trips are an issue for me. Have you ever done a UOA on it? Mine always has a ton of fuel dilution, and I've changed out the high pressure fuel pump just for piece of mind. Engine shelled at 170k so I'm only 10k into a new engine, but the fuel dilution still shows up on the brand new engine.

 

[SHOZ]

Did you notice a drop in dilution?

No.

 

[buster]

Owned since new. 115K miles. Car manual says 5w20, 10w30 or 5w30. Oil cap says 5w30. Apparently, a TSB came out several years ago saying 5w40 will provide better protection for these turbo engines, which makes sense. For about a year now, I've been using Amsoil SS 5w30 (used M1 5w30 before that) with OCI between 3,000 and 4,000 miles about every 5-6 months. Car manual says 3 months or 3K miles for Severe OCI. I'm trying to baby these engines given their history.

I want to stick with Amsoil SS given I've been very pleased with how smooth and quiet my car runs. However, Amsoil only makes 5w40 in a European formula (not SS), and they make a 0w40 in SS. I live in TN. Should I stick with 5w30 SS or go with 0w40 SS or switch to 5w40 given I don't need the 0 winter weight?

Adding @Pablo as our resident Amsoil guru.

It really depends on what specific type of 5w40 they're talking about. Are they suggesting better protection due to the viscosity increase? Some 5w40's may have more VII's than Amsoil 5w30 SS and may end up becoming a 5w30 in service. Amsoil 5w30 SS already provides incredible turbo protection. AEL isn't a bad choice either. I'd probably either stay with SS 5w30 or move to the 0w40 SS.

 

[H. Swanson]

It really depends on what specific type of 5w40 they're talking about. Are they suggesting better protection due to the viscosity increase? Some 5w40's may have more VII's than Amsoil 5w30 SS and may end up becoming a 5w30 in service. Amsoil 5w30 SS already provides incredible turbo protection. AEL isn't a bad choice either. I'd probably either stay with SS 5w30 or move to the 0w40 SS.

Yes, I believe they're (Hyundai Canada though) saying the increased viscosity would protect the engines better--see below. I agree that staying with 5w30 SS is a good bet. I am going to perform my first oil analysis at the next oil change, so I'll be very interested to see the results and if I have significant fuel dilution. If yes, perhaps a thicker oil will make sense at that point.

 

[H. Swanson]

I have a 2012 Optima 2.0T, I'm a tech at the local Kia dealership. I know Hyundai model changes usually happened right around a year or so before Kia, (so a 2013 model Hyundai has to be compared to a 2014 Kia model for example) but a 2013 Santa Fe 2.0T should be the same or simliar to our Sportage(?) model which was available with the same 2.0T engine. I use Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 in mine. Owners manual says 5w30 or 0w-30, or 5w-40. I would assume this mean a 0w-40 would be acceptable since 0w-30 or 5w-40 are listed.

I wouldnt worry too much about Euro oil standards, the ACEA A3/B3/B4 specs are harder for our regular US market oils to meet, most of those oils are double duty Gasoline/diesel type oils in Europe. Some of them require a higher HTHS viscosity which should help rod bearing lubrication and durability. Main thing to watch out is just never let it get more than a half quart low. Some of these theta engines have a very strong oil pump that will pump the sump dry if its too low, wonder how much of that is leading to the rod bearing issues that's plagued the design for a while now.

I change mine 3k/3months no matter what, I barely drive 7 miles to work so frequent short trips are an issue for me. Have you ever done a UOA on it? Mine always has a ton of fuel dilution, and I've changed out the high pressure fuel pump just for piece of mind. Engine shelled at 170k so I'm only 10k into a new engine, but the fuel dilution still shows up on the brand new engine.

Super helpful. Did they replace your engine under warranty? If you don't hit 3k miles at 3 months, do you still change the oil at 3 months?

I'm going to do a UOA at the next oil change. I purchased the Amsoil test kits.

 

[edyvw]

Yes, I believe they're (Hyundai Canada though) saying the increased viscosity would protect the engines better--see below. I agree that staying with 5w30 SS is a good bet. I am going to perform my first oil analysis at the next oil change, so I'll be very interested to see the results and if I have significant fuel dilution. If yes, perhaps a thicker oil will make sense at that point.

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It is not about grade, it is about HTHS. Lower KV100 higher HTHS, indicates some serious base stock. With AEL you get HTHS that is on par some XW40 oils but more shear stable, better performing in cold.
Hyundai recommended XW40 as Hyundai doesn’t have approvals like Euro manufacturers. What you want is oil that has MB229.5 or MB229.51/52 approvals or in case of Amsoil, recommendations.
Hyundai recommends XW40 as it is safe bet to have appropriate HTHS.