2013 FZ6R Oil, No VI correct?

L

LordNilesStandish

Joined
Jun 19, 2024
Messages
276
Well on Saturday my little man and I brought it out of storage, added a new battery, cleaned it and flushed the oil.
It's been in Storage since we moved early 2020.
The engine is a slightly detuned R6 type, being the racier kind I've always used Penrite 10W40 full pao/ester no VI oil.
I had an old bottle of which being unknown vintage I used to flush the girl and put through a heat cycle before adding fresh fluid - which I havn't done yet.
I noticed it is very thick oil, and realised it's a monograde.
Now, this bike I have always noticed trouble shifting until full temp, which is 30+ minutes into a ride.
I'm wondering if this is due to the syrupy thick monograde?
Do I need to swap to a true multi grade with some VII?
What should I try?
I don't ride below 20 oC.
 
If you notice trouble shifting make sure its not unwanted clutch drag... Manufactures
warn owners that our gears can't shift smoothly if our clutch is part way engaged...

Here are the steps how to check and eliminate unwanted clutch drag...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle at 212ºF (operating temp)...

3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear...

4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not...
if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... adjust...

To adjust a cable equipped bike turn the small knob clock wise (out)
1/4 turn and test for clutch drag... if your bike is equipped with
hydraulics bleed system for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine
is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
 
LordNilesStandish said:
Do I need to swap to a true multi grade with some VII?
Click to expand...

YamaLube 40 grade mineral needs some Viscosity Improvers where as their 100% synthetic needs none... The VI additives in multi-grade
oil help it move more quickly through a cold engine upon start-up, but still flow as a 40 at operating temperature...

Either choice will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...

YamaLube10w40.webp
 
BusyLittleShop said:
If you notice trouble shifting make sure its not unwanted clutch drag... Manufactures
warn owners that our gears can't shift smoothly if our clutch is part way engaged...

Here are the steps how to check and eliminate unwanted clutch drag...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle at 212ºF (operating temp)...

3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear...

4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not...
if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... adjust...

To adjust a cable equipped bike turn the small knob clock wise (out)
1/4 turn and test for clutch drag... if your bike is equipped with
hydraulics bleed system for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine
is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
Click to expand...
Thanks I will check for clutch drag also.
It does get better once up to temp which made me look at oil also.
 
KrisZ said:
Not sure why you think VI is not desirable. Get that mono-grade out of there, it's not a lawnmower, and get some multi-grade in there.
Click to expand...
It's marketed as a 10W40 but has no VII.
I didn't know what that meant until lurking here for a while and when I was pouring and saw how thick it was the penny dropped.
On sale it's not especially expensive so I was using it figuring I was using the best oil possible. Now rethinking that.
 
Last edited:
BusyLittleShop said:
YamaLube 40 grade mineral needs some Viscosity Improvers where as their 100% synthetic needs none... The VI additives in multi-grade
oil help it move more quickly through a cold engine upon start-up, but still flow as a 40 at operating temperature...

Either choice will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...

View attachment 233793
Click to expand...

I can source Yamalube but is there a good substitute which is easier to acquire?
 
LordNilesStandish said:
It's marketed as a 10W40 but has no VII.
I didn't know what that meant until lurking here for a while and when I was pouring and saw how thick it was the penny dropped.
On sale it's not especially expensive so I was using it figuring I was using the best oil possible. Now rethinking that.
Click to expand...
I’m using 15w40 oils and they pour normally.

Is this the oil in question? If so, notice it doesn’t say SAE 10W40? It is likely not even synthetic. With very few exceptions, if it’s not SAE certified, it’s garbage. Get it out of your bike ASAP.
This thing is suited for splash lubricated equipment that’s about it.

IMG_4046.jpeg
 
LordNilesStandish said:
Australia
Click to expand...

FAST 4 Syn MA2 Motorcycle Oils (100% Australia owned)

Product Description:

Fast 4 Syn MA2 Motorcycle Oils are synthetic motorcycle oils that exceed the JASO MA2 specification requirements for use in four-stroke motorcycles with wet clutches. This specification ensures these oils have the correct friction requirements with respect to the Dynamic Friction Index (DFI), the Static Friction Index (SFI) and the Stop Time Index (STI) allowing “wet clutches” in fourstroke motor bikes to hold and release at the correct time and speed to allow accurate and predictable gear changes.

Piston deposits reduced by 14% over SM rated oils
Engine sludge reduced by 2.5%
E85 compatible
Protects against rust and corrosion

Fast 4 Syn MA2 Motorcycle Oils meet or exceed the following demanding performance requirements:

API SN, SM, SL, CF, CF, CD, CE
JASO MA2/MA (T903: 2016)
HiTech5w40.webp
 
BusyLittleShop said:
FAST 4 Syn MA2 Motorcycle Oils (100% Australia owned)

Product Description:

Fast 4 Syn MA2 Motorcycle Oils are synthetic motorcycle oils that exceed the JASO MA2 specification requirements for use in four-stroke motorcycles with wet clutches. This specification ensures these oils have the correct friction requirements with respect to the Dynamic Friction Index (DFI), the Static Friction Index (SFI) and the Stop Time Index (STI) allowing “wet clutches” in fourstroke motor bikes to hold and release at the correct time and speed to allow accurate and predictable gear changes.

Piston deposits reduced by 14% over SM rated oils
Engine sludge reduced by 2.5%
E85 compatible
Protects against rust and corrosion

Fast 4 Syn MA2 Motorcycle Oils meet or exceed the following demanding performance requirements:

API SN, SM, SL, CF, CF, CD, CE
JASO MA2/MA (T903: 2016)
View attachment 234018
Click to expand...
Thanks! Looks good is a trade only brand, a bit hard for regular punters to aquire.
I found this, its currently on sale and I can do an exchange for the Penrite.
https://www.nulon.com.au/products/e...4-stroke-full-synthetic-10w-40-motorcycle-oil
Both options appear to actually be JASO
 
Question: In the description for the "Fast 4" oil, says it "exceeds JASO MA2 specifications". What is the measuring stick that says their oils to exceed MA2? How does one define it exceeds a spec when a spec is already the most recent/modern spec?
 
Bonz said:
Question: In the description for the "Fast 4" oil, says it "exceeds JASO MA2 specifications". What is the measuring stick that says their oils to exceed MA2? How does one define it exceeds a spec when a spec is already the most recent/modern spec?
Click to expand...
It's just the weasel words our local oil producers use when they don't have an actual certification/registration.
 
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