LordNilesStandish
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- Joined
- Jun 19, 2024
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It's too thick when cold for my transmission.The Penrite oil you've got is a good, valid choice. I would not change it out.
It's too thick when cold for my transmission.The Penrite oil you've got is a good, valid choice. I would not change it out.
It was from an unopened bottle probably purchased 2017 or 18'.If rated at 10w40 artificial Vi's or not, should behave that way, sitting for 4 years in a motor, maybe it thickened.
I don't see any way a 40-grade oil could qualify for a 10W winter rating without VM.It was from an unopened bottle probably purchased 2017 or 18'.
Bottle says no VI's, believe monograde.
They reckon the synthetic blend of PAO and Esters gives them the SAE 10W properties without any VII.I don't see any way a 40-grade oil could qualify for a 10W winter rating without VM.
They reckon the synthetic blend of PAO and Esters gives them the SAE 10W properties without any VII.
But this brand also doesn't worry about getting API certification either.
I don't know.
I do know my bike is notchy when cold, especially third gear.
I think it's a premium oil, just not for my bike.
There is a Federal consumer law against false claims.OEM approved? The one actual approval that’s doesn’t appear to be an actual approval. That’s quite the list of suggestions.
Why anyone messes around with this kind of stuff is a bit beyond me.
It's just a fussy third gear.An oil analysis will tell you what the properties of the oil are and what additives are in it. But it's understandable if you don't want to spend money to get an oil analysis done on oil you're not going to use.
Nothing wrong with a monograde if you're not doing starts in freezing temps. My 2014 FZ-09 spent the last 80K miles on Valvoline VR1 SAE 40 - a dead dino monograde non-motorcycle 'racing' oil. It's the best shifting oil I've ever used in this bike, and I've tried a good number of them. No clutch issues, no degradation in shift quality over the OCI, and used oil analyses showed zero shear (as you'd expect from a monograde) and plenty of TBN left for extending the interval if I wanted to.
During my last valve adjustment, I measured everything I could to see if there was any unusual/excessive wear. Nope, everything was in spec.
Your bike will like what it likes - find an oil that it likes and use it. Just be aware that sometimes oil formulations change.
A UOA spectrographic analysis will tell you the concentration of elements from decomposed additives, not what additives are in it. You can make a guess or assumption from there but UOA do not show additives. It also will not show you whether the oil has a JASO license, or if it actually has a manufacturer approval or meets a certain specification.An oil analysis will tell you what the properties of the oil are and what additives are in it. But it's understandable if you don't want to spend money to get an oil analysis done on oil you're not going to use.
Nothing wrong with a monograde if you're not doing starts in freezing temps. My 2014 FZ-09 spent the last 80K miles on Valvoline VR1 SAE 40 - a dead dino monograde non-motorcycle 'racing' oil. It's the best shifting oil I've ever used in this bike, and I've tried a good number of them. No clutch issues, no degradation in shift quality over the OCI, and used oil analyses showed zero shear (as you'd expect from a monograde) and plenty of TBN left for extending the interval if I wanted to.
During my last valve adjustment, I measured everything I could to see if there was any unusual/excessive wear. Nope, everything was in spec.
Your bike will like what it likes - find an oil that it likes and use it. Just be aware that sometimes oil formulations change.
They make the claim it meets OEM approvals but then the list doesn't say that it actually has them. Lots of companies make claims that subsequently don't stand up and then go out of business. Lots of them.There is a Federal consumer law against false claims.
Basically you can claim something meets or exceeds X, and you better be able to back it up or you broke a Federal law and the company gets fined.
However I feel our local oil producers exploit this law to avoid for paying for independent testing and certification.
A UOA spectrographic analysis will tell you the concentration of elements from decomposed additives, not what additives are in it. You can make a guess or assumption from there but UOA do not show additives.
It also will not show you whether the oil has a JASO license, or if it actually has a manufacturer approval or meets a certain specification.
It's just a fussy third gear.
I don't like it either. And precisely why my more treasured vehicles get Castrol Edge.They make the claim it meets OEM approvals but then the list doesn't say that it actually has them. Lots of companies make claims that subsequently don't stand up and then go out of business. Lots of them.
I guess I am just done with these unscrupulous blenders that intentionally obfuscate on their PDS. I do not know why people persist buying this stuff. There a few notorious ones that come up now and then and this one is right there with them.
No what I meant is the spectrograph (usually an ICP machine) decomposes all compounds prior to analysis. A VOA and a UOA are the same from this standpoint. I used to run oil analysis in college, the plasma temperature in the spectrograph is very high and is designed to decompose all compounds, even highly stable ones.How about a VOA? Does that show concentration of elements from decomposed additives (which doesn't make sense since the oil is unused), or are they doing the analysis differently with a virgin oil vs. used oil?
It's slow shifting into third when cold. Could be syncros. Was like this from new.That could be a mechanical issue though. Does it get better with a different oil?