2013 ford taurus 3.7L wont start.

[Fordiesel69]

Got a 2013 FPIS with 3.7L cyclone V6. Has 205K and quite frankly should have had a water pump failure by now and im surprized it hasnt yet.

Anyways here is the sequence of events that lead up to the no start. And I have no clue where to go next as it is single digits out.

1.) I am intentionally letting gas tank run very low during winter to make sure the gas is as fresh as possible as I alternate between this car and a truck.
2.) One week ago I used a scanner to clear out a EVAP (fuel cap loose) code. I had an issue with fuel flap not closing that I resolved.
3.) I run sheetz E15 which is 88 octane and the car is certified to run it, but since I cleared the code, the PCM might have lost its alcohol content readings that were stored. I am brainstorming this may be part of the problem.
4.) Thursday 2/13 I started it up, Moved it into a different spot in the driveway, then I reved it up twice to clear the moisture out of the exahust and shut it off. This move took maybe 1 minute in very cold weather.
5.) Monday 2/24 I attempted to start it up with it being 11 degrees F, and it started quickly but sounded like it is running on 3 cylinders and it is vibrating. As soon as I pressed the accelerator to increase engine speed, it vibrated more and made a bogging sound thru intake.
6.) I disconnected intake tube, and tried to use clear flood mode, and get 2-3 cylinders trying to catch. Starting fluid is not helping.

It then got colder out which is now single digits. It sounds like it is either severly flooded, or jumped time.

I did have aftermarket mufflers installed that are more restricutive, and I wonder with it "bogging" out the intake, if either the cells in the cats are frozen over from the extra short runtime, or if the muffers were water logged and froze over.

Amy ideas how to troubleshoot and where to begin. Cant put in garage.

 

[D60]

For giggles pull the fp fuse and see if it'll run on starter fluid

I had similar on a Subaru and it literally was bad gas, but he had just filled up the night before and it would not start the next morning. When I finally got it to start (through sheer luck) it would run poorly

 

[KCJeep]

Cold weather is not the time to run your tank low. You can get a frozen fuel line that way. Iso Heet is good for getting water out of the system.

 

[wtd]

You might have condensation in your gas tank from keeping the tank low on fuel. I try and keep my tank full during the winter.

 

[Fordiesel69]

When I put engine in clear flood mode, it still attempts to pop off, and sounds like it could be out of time, or a few cylinders are trying to contribute something. I peeked in the valve cover oil fill and both cams are rotating. But it really sounds like an engine that is no longer timed correctly or has slipped a tooth.

I did check the oil and coolant and it has not changed which indicated the water pump has not let loose. The state mechanic I spoke with did say that 99% of the time the coolant discharges into the oil whenever the WP fail, but he had seen a very small handfull shear off the water pump sprocket and cause the engine to no longer be in time.

 

[D60]

When I put engine in clear flood mode, it still attempts to pop off, and sounds like it could be out of time, or a few cylinders are trying to contribute something. I peeked in the valve cover oil fill and both cams are rotating. But it really sounds like an engine that is no longer timed correctly or has slipped a tooth.

I did check the oil and coolant and it has not changed which indicated the water pump has not let loose. The state mechanic I spoke with did say that 99% of the time the coolant discharges into the oil whenever the WP fail, but he had seen a very small handfull shear off the water pump sprocket and cause the engine to no longer be in time.

Well you're doing a good job of going worst case right off the bat. Kind of an anti‐KISS approach. Interesting! Let us know what happens!

 

[Fordiesel69]

I am willing to try the FP fuse 1st. Get the fuel out of cylinders and crank to see if it runs on fluid.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Also, since getting the mufflers replaced, I did notice some ever so slight stumbling starts directly after fillups at the gas station.

 

[JRay’07]

Try removing the spark plugs and inspect them for signs of fouling (if you haven’t already). Check the fuel supply, compression, and spark first before testing other engine components.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Got a 2013 FPIS with 3.7L cyclone V6. Has 205K and quite frankly should have had a water pump failure by now and im surprized it hasnt yet.

Anyways here is the sequence of events that lead up to the no start. And I have no clue where to go next as it is single digits out.

1.) I am intentionally letting gas tank run very low during winter to make sure the gas is as fresh as possible as I alternate between this car and a truck.
2.) One week ago I used a scanner to clear out a EVAP (fuel cap loose) code. I had an issue with fuel flap not closing that I resolved.
3.) I run sheetz E15 which is 88 octane and the car is certified to run it, but since I cleared the code, the PCM might have lost its alcohol content readings that were stored. I am brainstorming this may be part of the problem.
4.) Thursday 2/13 I started it up, Moved it into a different spot in the driveway, then I reved it up twice to clear the moisture out of the exahust and shut it off. This move took maybe 1 minute in very cold weather.
5.) Monday 2/24 I attempted to start it up with it being 11 degrees F, and it started quickly but sounded like it is running on 3 cylinders and it is vibrating. As soon as I pressed the accelerator to increase engine speed, it vibrated more and made a bogging sound thru intake.
6.) I disconnected intake tube, and tried to use clear flood mode, and get 2-3 cylinders trying to catch. Starting fluid is not helping.

It then got colder out which is now single digits. It sounds like it is either severly flooded, or jumped time.

I did have aftermarket mufflers installed that are more restricutive, and I wonder with it "bogging" out the intake, if either the cells in the cats are frozen over from the extra short runtime, or if the muffers were water logged and froze over.

Amy ideas how to troubleshoot and where to begin. Cant put in garage.

Exhaust is clogged. With what i dont know. Nothing coming out the back. Nothing obstructing thru the tail pipe so I assume water has frozen somewhere. I had a tilt bed truck come and "tilt" it into my garage.

 

[Donald]

Cold weather is not the time to run your tank low. You can get a frozen fuel line that way. Iso Heet is good for getting water out of the system.

With E10 gas???

 

[Fordiesel69]

E15 (blue nozzel from sheetz)

 

[Fordiesel69]

Mystery solved. Exhaust was completely plugged with ice and 3 hours at 60° thought it enough at the engine was able to start and overcome all of the ice inside the exhaust system and out came a geyser of black brackish water out both tailpipes. Now being a shop installed 2 aftermarket Mufflers that are not technically OEM quality how do I prevent this from happening in the future. If I were to take the car back they are just going to say that I had the choice to get the expensive OEM mufflers and this would not have happened. I chose the cheap aftermarket Mufflers because this is a rusty winter beater car.

 

[twX]

4.) Thursday 2/13 I started it up, Moved it into a different spot in the driveway, then I reved it up twice to clear the moisture out of the exahust and shut it off. This move took maybe 1 minute in very cold weather.

Mystery solved. Exhaust was completely plugged with ice and 3 hours at 60° thought it enough at the engine was able to start and overcome all of the ice inside the exhaust system and out came a geyser of black brackish water out both tailpipes. Now being a shop installed 2 aftermarket Mufflers that are not technically OEM quality how do I prevent this from happening in the future.

Were you starting the engine to move the car often? Starting and revving a cold engine is only going to introduce more water into the exhaust, and a lot of it will condense in the exhaust system if you don't run the engine long enough to warm up the exhaust piping.

The best practice for storing a vehicle is to get the engine nice and hot, shut it off, and then leave it alone. I'd be surprised if a few cold starts would plug the exhaust with ice, but if you're constantly starting the engine without letting it warm up, that might be why.

I'd also keep the fuel tank full so that it doesn't absorb as much water. Ethanol is good at absorbing water, and it might help prevent your fuel lines from freezing, but it might also mean more water in your exhaust, especially if you keep the tank level low and it absorbs a lot of water. I wouldn't worry about gas going bad as long as you're burning a tank of fuel every 6 months or so.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Were you starting the engine to move the car often? Starting and revving a cold engine is only going to introduce more water into the exhaust, and a lot of it will condense in the exhaust system if you don't run the engine long enough to warm up the exhaust piping.

The best practice for storing a vehicle is to get the engine nice and hot, shut it off, and then leave it alone. I'd be surprised if a few cold starts would plug the exhaust with ice, but if you're constantly starting the engine without letting it warm up, that might be why.

I'd also keep the fuel tank full so that it doesn't absorb as much water. Ethanol is good at absorbing water, and it might help prevent your fuel lines from freezing, but it might also mean more water in your exhaust, especially if you keep the tank level low and it absorbs a lot of water. I wouldn't worry about gas going bad as long as you're burning a tank of fuel every 6 months or so.

So becuase of the heavy snow I have been using the truck more, and indeed the car has been moved several times without any warm up, and is normally parked with the nose pointing down. I also noticed the aftermarket mufflers have the drain hole drilled on the back side, however they slant towards the front, so they will never drain. I need to look at a factory muffler on my fathers car as his oem muffler have not rotted out yet. I should be able to find the drain hole and see if they are in the front or rear.

 

[mk378]

if you don't run the engine long enough to warm up the exhaust piping.

This is the key. Running the engine only for a few minutes at a time does more harm than good on several fronts. Don't start unless you're going to go out and drive.