2001 Ford F150 5.4L 116K starting issue

[ARB1977]

All right fellas. This starting issue is driving me crazy. It intermittently doesn’t want to start. I first changed the fuel filter which I think was original. Started right up. Once it’s running it runs great. Plugs, boots, air filter and MAF was cleaned done 4K ago. The battery was replaced about a year and an half ago with a duralast platinum AGM. The starter is engaging because I could feel compression coming out of the exhaust. There are no codes. What do you think I should try next? Thanks.

 

[wtd]

When it doesn't start, check for spark, fuel pressure, and injector pulse.

 

[loneryder]

Have the same vehicle. Fuel pump!

 

[FZ1]

All right fellas. This starting issue is driving me crazy. It intermittently doesn’t want to start. I first changed the fuel filter which I think was original. Started right up. Once it’s running it runs great. Plugs, boots, air filter and MAF was cleaned done 4K ago. The battery was replaced about a year and an half ago with a duralast platinum AGM. The starter is engaging because I could feel compression coming out of the exhaust. There are no codes. What do you think I should try next? Thanks.

Getcha a $12 battery tester or go to AutoZone, they'll test it for free.

 

[Lubener]

Your description is all over the place. Do you have a engine cranking or starting issue??? Does the starter crank fast enough for the engine to start??

 

[Hirev]

So you are having a crank and no start sometimes? Any funny stuff going on with the dash when this happens such as security light or tachometer gauge not reading? Have you tried taking a 16 Oz dead blow hammer to the fuel tank around the fuel pump area? It could be a fuel pump issue.

 

[ARB1977]

Have the same vehicle. Fuel pump!

Is it hard to change?

 

[ARB1977]

Your description is all over the place. Do you have a engine cranking or starting issue??? Does the starter crank fast enough for the engine to start??

Starting issues. The engine turns over plenty fast.

 

[ARB1977]

So you are having a crank and no start sometimes? Any funny stuff going on with the dash when this happens such as security light or tachometer gauge not reading? Have you tried taking a 16 Oz dead blow hammer to the fuel tank around the fuel pump area? It could be a fuel pump issue.

The security light flashes pretty fast. I was thinking on getting a fuel pressure gauge and see. Once it runs it runs great.

 

[Nukeman7]

Starting issues. The engine turns over plenty fast.

Try this old mechanic's diagnostic trick: Keep an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner spray in the truck. The next time you have a no-start condition, open the hood and spray the carb cleaner into the air filter intake snorkel for ~5 seconds and quickly try to start it. If it starts immediately and runs (even briefly for several seconds), you have confirmed it has good spark and compression. Thus, confirming it is a fuel delivery issue (e.g., fuel pump, fuel pump relay/circuit, injectors, pressure regulator). If it doesn't start, I'd focus on the ignition/timing system...with emphasis on the crank position sensor.

 

[ARB1977]

Try this old mechanic's diagnostic trick: Keep an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner spray in the truck. The next time you have a no-start condition, open the hood and spray the carb cleaner into the air filter intake snorkel for ~5 seconds and quickly try to start it. If it starts immediately and runs (even briefly for several seconds), you have confirmed it has good spark and compression. Thus, confirming it is a fuel delivery issue (e.g., fuel pump, fuel pump relay/circuit, injectors, pressure regulator). If it doesn't start, I'd focus on the ignition/timing system...with emphasis on the crank position sensor.

Thank you. I’ll try that.

 

[Marcozi]

What are you using to scan the truck?

 

[D60]

I've had the starting aid (starting fluid, brake cleaner etc) punk me when it's a mixture issue. I had a '14 Rogue with bug fried to MAF that sometimes would start (but it ran poorly, although not so bad that your typical oblivious driver might notice) and sometimes not.

Basically the ECM was just REALLY confused and adding a fuel altered the mixture enough to get it to sputter. I nearly condemned the fuel pump but I knew the pump was running and that diagnosis didn't sit right with me. I finally tore out the back seat and cobbled into the fuel supply to verify pump pressure was good.

OP should listen for the pump to prime at key on and find a way to verify fuel pressure -- I don't remember if the bubble bodies got a Schrader valve. My '07 2V 4.6 F150 only has a data PID for FRP - fuel rail pressure.

 

[Eddie Hudson]

The Security Light should never flash rapidly. PATS detects a problem and prevents the vehicle from starting.

 

[Nukeman7]

The security light flashes pretty fast. I was thinking on getting a fuel pressure gauge and see. Once it runs it runs great.

The Security Light should never flash rapidly. PATS detects a problem and prevents the vehicle from starting.

Try a different chipped key before delving too deep into the PATS issue.

 

[D60]

If it is PATS I'd have it disabled. Nothing but problems.

Try Steve at Drag Radial Performance

Steve has also said that on some models once PATS gets really stupid, he can't always fix it. Thus better to do it preventatively. However I'm paraphrasing and I'm not sure the bubble bodies are included in those models which can experience this terminal failure.

Make sure it is a PATS issue before you send off your PCM only to still have a no-start upon its return

 

[ARB1977]

What are you using to scan the truck?

OBD reader

 

[ARB1977]

Try a different chipped key before delving too deep into the PATS issue.

I tried the spare key and it did the same thing.

 

[ARB1977]

The Security Light should never flash rapidly. PATS detects a problem and prevents the vehicle from starting.

Even though it would flash and start at times. I tried a new key that was made and programmed and did the same thing as the original key.

 

[ARB1977]

I've had the starting aid (starting fluid, brake cleaner etc) punk me when it's a mixture issue. I had a '14 Rogue with bug fried to MAF that sometimes would start (but it ran poorly, although not so bad that your typical oblivious driver might notice) and sometimes not.

Basically the ECM was just REALLY confused and adding a fuel altered the mixture enough to get it to sputter. I nearly condemned the fuel pump but I knew the pump was running and that diagnosis didn't sit right with me. I finally tore out the back seat and cobbled into the fuel supply to verify pump pressure was good.

OP should listen for the pump to prime at key on and find a way to verify fuel pressure -- I don't remember if the bubble bodies got a Schrader valve. My '07 2V 4.6 F150 only has a data PID for FRP - fuel rail pressure.

I was going to get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the fuel rail.