2013 f30 BMW 328ix N20 m1 0w40 UOA

[Lead Shoes]

Thought I would share my past vehicles UOA. On my 2013 bmw 328ix sport N20B20 I ran an AFE momentum intake and BMS+ plug in box (opened and turned up to +4 psi). Ran it like this from 72k to 110k and just wanted to check up on it. This N20 had the typical harmonic balance pulley wobble of a few MM (yes, I replaced it with a new oem pulley too and it did not change). Yes, it sounded like a diesel clacking at idle from the injectors, and had cold piston slap too for anyone who owns one checking this later. As far as I know this "doomed" from the factory engine never had the timing chains or turbo replaced and apparently is going to hold up well for the next owner. Typically had 2 changes annually 5 to 6k miles on m1 0w40 or castrol 0w40 and a 6mi each way hwy commute in the upper mid west under my watch.

Apparently they just sound crappy cold, at idle, and pull hard in between...

 

[edyvw]

I would not run in N20 anything but approved LL01 oil like Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2, Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40 etc.
Flashpoint has a big drop for M1 0W40. Probably fuel dilution as viscosity dropped a lot.
But variable we are missing is TAN. BMW engines like to oxidize oil, that is why LL approvals have very stringent oxidation limits.
Next time do TBN and TAN to see where oil is.
Also, BMW generally does not shed iron a lot. 24ppm is a bit high IMO.

 

[JavierH19]

24ppm of iron stood out especially for just 5k miles. Here's a good cheap ll-01 oil. Buy more with the savings to change more frequently. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-State-Euro-Full-Synthetic-5W-40-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/737859365

 

[edyvw]

24ppm of iron stood out especially for just 5k miles. Here's a good cheap ll-01 oil. Buy more with the savings to change more frequently. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-State-Euro-Full-Synthetic-5W-40-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/737859365

M1 0W40 is an excellent choice for BMW engines, but not this one. 24ppm is not due to M1. Probably oil lost viscosity due to dilution.
The reason for LL01 is timing chain guides as LL01 has a specific timing chain test for this engine.

 

[JavierH19]

M1 0W40 is an excellent choice for BMW engines, but not this one. 24ppm is not due to M1. Probably oil lost viscosity due to dilution.
The reason for LL01 is timing chain guides as LL01 has a specific timing chain test for this engine.

Yes I do know of these earlier engines suffering from that and OP reiterated that known issue as well. A BMW specific oil for this issue is the best choice going off of your comments I read regarding timing chain wear testing and other things on a thread talking about euro grades that i recall only reading but not commenting on. It also has 110.5k which is a lot for these. And i don't claim that m1 0w-40 as being bad, it's fabulous high saps oil I'd happily run in my non gdi engines.

Edit: Correction 110.5k not 113k but still it's a lot for it.

 

[edyvw]

Yes I do know of these earlier engines suffering from that and OP reiterated that known issue as well. A BMW specific oil for this issue is the best choice going off of your comments I read regarding timing chain wear testing and other things on a thread talking about euro grades that i recall only reading but not commenting on. It also has 113k which is a lot for these. And i don't claim that m1 0w-40 as being bad, it's fabulous high saps oil I'd happily run in my non gdi engines.

From his statement, guides were never changed. This engine is running on borrowed time.

 

[JavierH19]

From his statement, guides were never changed. This engine is running on borrowed time.

Exactly. So do everything to keep it on life support including very frequent ll-01 changes which is what i stated. Buy a cheap ll-01 so you can change it more frequently to help it along until the inevitable happens. Or better yet dump it while it still hasn't fully blown up and get a decent trade in on an unknowing dealer.

 

[Lead Shoes]

For as problematic as this engine can be and how hard I ran it I'd say it overall it held up pretty well to frequent shorter trips in the frozen north on this change all things considered. There's a reason I traded it in... this was more for curiosities sake to UOA it at the end. I doubt it makes it to 150k without needing major engine work given how it deteriorated so far over my ownership.