2013 BMW X1 N20 80k Miles

A

Aloyouis

Joined
May 8, 2016
Messages
17
Location
Michigan
I have a new to me X1 as described above.

Previous owner has been using Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30 year round here in Michigan since 26k miles. I have been reading as much as I can and there seems to be many good brands that fit the required specs. I changed the oil today using the same oil and an OEM filter, easy peasy.

The LM is expensive and there seems to be several alternatives. Penzoil Platinum Euro is frequently mentioned and is available at Walmartfor $23/5qt as an example.

I am not cheap and will most certainly use an oil that is best just wondering if the LM is the best choice.

I was aware of the time chain guide potential when I had it inspected and my mechanic says the chain is tight and properly snug, but given the potential chain issues I want to make the best choice. I will keep the OCI at 5k going forward.

So, recommendations on oil?

I spent the last couple of hours on here and I am starting to go in circles, LOL.

Thanks in advance!
 
BMWTurboDzl said:
BMW updated their certs* to address chain wear so buy whichever is cheapest. Castrol, M1, Shell, Valvoline, Pentosin.

*LL01, LL04, LL01fe
Click to expand...
This.

If it were mine I would also change the oil a bit sooner than the OLM suggests. My local BMW indy that has a race team and builds engines suggests not going over 5000 miles on the turbo engines with a good 5w40 LL01 oil.
 
jeepman3071 said:
This.

If it were mine I would also change the oil a bit sooner than the OLM suggests. My local BMW indy that has a race team and builds engines suggests not going over 5000 miles on the turbo engines with a good 5w40 LL01 oil.
Click to expand...
Absolutely. If this were a straight 6 no turbo I would stretch it. Hell, I ran a 2002 325 out to 337k miles following the max interval and using 87 gas. Car was a TANK. But these N20 engines Arte an entirely different ball game. I will change the oil at 5k or less. It takes 15 minutes on ramps.

Just ordered 5 Mann filters that come with the crush washer and both filter rings. Now just need to decide on the oil. LM is $56 for 5 liters. Ugh.
 
Aloyouis said:
Absolutely. If this were a straight 6 no turbo I would stretch it. Hell, I ran a 2002 325 out to 337k miles following the max interval and using 87 gas. Car was a TANK. But these N20 engines Arte an entirely different ball game. I will change the oil at 5k or less. It takes 15 minutes on ramps.

Just ordered 5 Mann filters that come with the crush washer and both filter rings. Now just need to decide on the oil. LM is $56 for 5 liters. Ugh.
Click to expand...
I've been getting the 5w40 Valvoline Euro recently for Euro cars I service for friends/family. It has the LL01 and Porsche A40 spec. Can find it at WalMart for $23 for 5 quarts. Personally I do the lifetime warranty oil change kit from FCP Euro. Buy the kit once, then lifetime warranty after that and basically just pay for shipping.
 
jeepman3071 said:
I've been getting the 5w40 Valvoline Euro recently for Euro cars I service for friends/family. It has the LL01 and Porsche A40 spec. Can find it at WalMart for $23 for 5 quarts. Personally I do the lifetime warranty oil change kit from FCP Euro. Buy the kit once, then lifetime warranty after that and basically just pay for shipping.
Click to expand...
Two questions:

1- 5W 40?
2- what is the lifetime FCP Euro you speak of?

Thanks.
 
Any LL-01 from a major should do you very well and as you already noted plenty of options available at Wally's for half that.
 
Great deals.

Are you suggesting that I use 5w-40 instead of 5w-30?

That QS is the same as a Shell product?
 
Aloyouis said:
Two questions:

1- 5W 40?
2- what is the lifetime FCP Euro you speak of?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Don't worry about the weight. BMW made it easy by shopping certs. 0/5w30 vs 0/5w40 is largely irrelevant for a street driven BMW.

FCP Euro has lifetime warranty on all parts and non-consumables. So you buy their oil and then when you want to change it you create a RMA and ship the used oil back to them where you'll receive a credit. Of course you would have already ordered a new kit from them.

It's a loss leader for them and you really have to want to go through the hassle of starting the return process, printing out the return slip, packaging and then shipping the used oil back. Obviously the shorter the distance you have to ship to CT the better the deal is for you.
 
Last edited:
Aloyouis said:
Great deals.

Are you suggesting that I use 5w-40 instead of 5w-30?

That QS is the same as a Shell product?
Click to expand...
Grade is irrelevant with European approvals. The approval specifies a minimum HT/HS which defines the resulting grade. Winter rating is especially irrelevant unless you're starting unaided below -35F or so. If you are then an oil with a 0W rating will be helpful.

Go by approvals as that is what demonstrates the performance of the oil.
 
Several things about issues on N20/26 engines, and oil is absolutely critical here.
1. General idea is: do not worry about grade but worry about approvals. In the case of N20/26 it cuts, but you can do better.
2. Go as heavy as possible oil that has LL01 or LL04 approvals (forget anything with FE in the end).
3. The best choice is Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 with API SP. It has LL01 approval but it is very low on Zinc, which actually is good thing considering the main issue on N20/26 is timing chain guides.
4. Change it every 5K.
 
kschachn said:
Grade is irrelevant with European approvals. The approval specifies a minimum HT/HS which defines the resulting grade. Winter rating is especially irrelevant unless you're starting unaided below -35F or so. If you are then an oil with a 0W rating will be helpful.

Go by approvals as that is what demonstrates the performance of the oil.
Click to expand...
In this case, I would go as heavy as possible with LL01 or LL04, low on Zinc. PP Euro 5W40 is the best choice for this particular engine.
 
edyvw - THANK YOU.

This is exactly what I was looking for. That LM I just put in will get it's 4-5k (or less if I get a bee in my bonnet) and then switch to PP Euro 5w-40 and quit wondering about it.
 
Aloyouis said:
edyvw - THANK YOU.

This is exactly what I was looking for. That LM I just put in will get it's 4-5k (or less if I get a bee in my bonnet) and then switch to PP Euro 5w-40 and quit wondering about it.
Click to expand...
You are welcome. Also, check with BMW for any timing chain guides recalls. Also, if you do your timing chain guides, BMW might cover it. There is a lawsuit regarding that.
www.bimmerfest.com

BMWNA F30 N20/N26 timing chain class action lawsuit...

www.bimmerfest.com www.bimmerfest.com
 
edyvw said:
Several things about issues on N20/26 engines, and oil is absolutely critical here.
1. General idea is: do not worry about grade but worry about approvals. In the case of N20/26 it cuts, but you can do better.
2. Go as heavy as possible oil that has LL01 or LL04 approvals (forget anything with FE in the end).
3. The best choice is Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 with API SP. It has LL01 approval but it is very low on Zinc, which actually is good thing considering the main issue on N20/26 is timing chain guides.
4. Change it every 5K.
Click to expand...
Interesting, can you elaborate on zinc vs timing chain guides (or maybe I read something where there wasn't)?
 
Popsy said:
Interesting, can you elaborate on zinc vs timing chain guides (or maybe I read something where there wasn't)?
Click to expand...
I am really not an expert on this particular topic, but the conversation around that is going around here for few years.
There are some sources available like this:

 
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