2012 Mercedes-Benz C250 1.8L TGDI - P034062 - Cam Adjuster Repair

The Critic

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Originally Posted by GeraldT
There are a couple of youtube videos showing how to reset the 271evo tensioner, so that it can be used again. The tool is for this later style tensioner.
I have seen the videos, but the official service procedure warns against resetting the tensioner. On a private forum I am part of, there have been a few reports of tensioner malfunction after the tensioner was reset and reused.
 
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Originally Posted by The Critic
there have been a few reports of tensioner malfunction after the tensioner was reset and reused.
WOW, that is not good. So with so many brands, and a wide range of prices, which source for a tensioner do you recommend ? Thanks
 
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I have heard German vehicles can / do become money pits when it comes to repairs & parts . Sounds like this is an example . For sale ? No thanks , think I will pass . Best of luck to you , :-) Wyr God bless
 

The Critic

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Originally Posted by GeraldT
Originally Posted by The Critic
there have been a few reports of tensioner malfunction after the tensioner was reset and reused.
WOW, that is not good. So with so many brands, and a wide range of prices, which source for a tensioner do you recommend ? Thanks
Dealer. And you will also need the tensioner plug. If you plan to do the job, order all of the parts on my list (Except the intake tube) plus the chain and both special service tools. You will need them. However, since you are only hearing a rattle and are not experiencing any faults, diagnose the issue before proceeding with repairs.
 
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Ordered Tensioner, a used wear measuring (Febi 40125) tool and as life would have it a replacement alternator (Parasitic battery drain, intermittent) I have not heard the noise since going to 10W-30 oil, Yesterday I just changed the oil again with 5W-40 and still no noise. I will get a baseline of the amount of chain, gears ?, and rail wear, before proceeding further. Super grateful for all your assistance !!
 
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The Critic

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Originally Posted by GeraldT
Ordered Tensioner, a used wear measuring (Febi 40125) tool and as life would have it a replacement alternator (Parasitic battery drain, intermittent) I have not heard the noise since going to 10W-30 oil, Yesterday I just changed the oil again with 5W-40 and still no noise. I will get a baseline of the amount of chain, gears ?, and rail wear, before proceeding further. Super grateful for all your assistance !!
Also need to order a timing chain tensioner hole plug. You need to destroy the current one in order to remove it. Part # 000-997-62-20, about $6. Where did you purchase the tool from?
 
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Originally Posted by The Critic
Where did you purchase the tool from?
Used on Ebay from Riga, Latvia
 
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Working on my 2014 C250 Sport with the inevitable chain rattle. Had a few questions I was wondering if anyone could answer. First, I had a local shop recommend replacing the VVT Oil Control Valves (271-050-05-78) but they are the only people who have recommended this. Is this needed or can the old ones be reused? Also, for the valve cover does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts? Lastly, for the valve cover again, does the valve cover need sealant and if so what's the best method for application. Apologies if these are no brainers, just a few things I have missed in my research for this repair.
 

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Originally Posted by CMAMerc
Working on my 2014 C250 Sport with the inevitable chain rattle. Had a few questions I was wondering if anyone could answer. First, I had a local shop recommend replacing the VVT Oil Control Valves (271-050-05-78) but they are the only people who have recommended this. Is this needed or can the old ones be reused? Also, for the valve cover does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts? Lastly, for the valve cover again, does the valve cover need sealant and if so what's the best method for application. Apologies if these are no brainers, just a few things I have missed in my research for this repair.
The oil control valves are in the center of each cam adjuster. During cam adjuster removal, they can be prone to damage and any debris in the valve will cause issues. Replacing them is not a bad idea, but this adds substantial cost. I re-used mine. The valve cover requires sealant in the two seams where the timing cover meets the head. I do not remember the torque spec off hand, but it is low.
 
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Originally Posted by WyrTwister
I have heard German vehicles can / do become money pits when it comes to repairs & parts . Sounds like this is an example . For sale ? No thanks , think I will pass . Best of luck to you , :-) Wyr God bless
Thank you for yet another astute and perceptive observation; I'm sure that the OP and others will find it extremely helpful.
 
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Wife had VW TDI injector pump changed twice by the dealer under warranty and beyond warranty (Past 100K). Then VW bought the car back. Then on her Honda, they replaced the transmission twice, beyond the warranty... On my first 1998 Mercedes, NOTHING broke, Now with my 2012 Mercedes, the dealer will not cover anything, and I have a long list of failed items. It is sad. Someone needs to sign people up for a class action, do to how the current Mercedes break...
 
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Thank you so much, really appreciate the help. One more question if you have a second. When replacing the timing tensioner, do you just need to tighten in the new one? Or is there a specific process to engage it since it comes depressed and it needs to expand.
 

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Originally Posted by CMAMerc
Thank you so much, really appreciate the help. One more question if you have a second. When replacing the timing tensioner, do you just need to tighten in the new one? Or is there a specific process to engage it since it comes depressed and it needs to expand.
After torquing the tensioner, you will need to install a new one-time use tensioner plug. The tensioner gets unlocked in a manner that is similar to the Toyota tensioners: you turn the crank CCW slightly, then rotate the crank pulley clockwise until you hear the ratcheting mechanism unwind.
 
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This is supposed to be a picture of the inside part of the Cam Adjusters that goes bad... Old and new

damaged hole 2.jpg


new2.jpg
 
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Russian video showing a rebuild of Cam Adjuster with hardened center plate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18_2gx2Z2R4 Google translate; 8 903 534 10 02 CALL COUPLING CAMSHAFT INLET AND OUTLET Kit for Mercedes Motor 271 Turbo EVO A 271 050 14 00 A 271 050 15 00 -------------------------------------------------- --------------------------- Timing camshaft clutch on an M271.8 evo 271.820 271.860 engine. Moscow development, factory production in German equipment. THIS IS NOT CHINA = NOT TURKEY = NOT YTM = NOT RUEL = NOT RESTORED ON THE KNEE == FACTORY QUALITY! ==================== ATTENTION! ======================== We fixed the 271th clutch in the likeness of the clutch on the 274th-278th motors that rarely fail and work on 200t.km — we used the same alloy and the same production technologies !!!! All necessary tests have been carried out. The internal mechanism is modernized - the metal is reinforced to 60 units. and the surface is "cemented." In these couplings, the teeth do not wear out, in them the internal mechanism fails. Do not confuse with the compressor option! Therefore, there is no way to check this in used couplings. EXCHANGE WARRANTY-360 days! " Suitable for all 271 turbo engines 2007-2013 onwards Resource from 90 to 200 thousand km, subject to timely maintenance !!!!! For comparison: The resource of the original ~ 45-90 thousand km The resource of the original with a brewed mechanism less than 1000km. Second-hand resource of the original ~ 1-2tys.km. Resource of Chinese \ Taiwan \ Turkish analogues ~ 0.km Each coupling is configured on a test bench. Write. There is WhatsApp, Viber. =================================================== = We give a guarantee without a mileage limit - 12 months! 12 months exchange =================================================== == (Attention! -New original numbers!) A2710501400 A2710501500 (ATTENTION! -Old numbers are different!) A2710503347 A2710503447 A2710502547 A2710502647 A2710501400 A2710501500 =================================================== 271 Turbo engines are suitable for Mercedes S, E, Coupe and other classes of different generations and years: since 2010! ============================================== The price is per unit. Terms of delivery: only for exchange (first your old to us, or on bail). -------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------- SENDING TO REGIONS = Business Lines or SDEK =================================================== === We work on weekends! 8 903 534 10 02 CALL-ask-ANSWER! WE BUY OLD MERCEDES COUPLINGS!
 
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The issue with the M271 turbo cam adjusters appears to be wear internal of the cam adjusters. Between 45K and 90K miles on the M271 cam adjusters, the plates have a groove worn in them by the pin. The pin is designed to lock the cam at idle and low power, and unlock with oil pressure to in order to change the cam timing for power. The rattle sound is the cam adjuster pins moving in the worn slot of the plate, this slapping motion of the adjuster causes the chain to stretch, and of coarse creates noise. There is a Russian source for hardened plates, which have double the life... So on the M271 turbo, in my opinion the cam adjuster are a required replacement item when doing a timing chain. Don't assume that they are fine, just because they look fine. Slop in the cam adjuster from wear in the plate should be able to be measured, with the cams locked by the cam holding tool. and with the chain removed, the slop or play should be able to be observed by simply trying to rotate the cam adjuster by hand.
 
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Source of the timing chain and cam adjuster problems... Translated from Russian website gesha from; https://www.benzclub.ru/forum/showpo...postcount=1026 checking the ventilation valve at partial loads - checking the software - checking the thermostat - changing oil with a viscosity of 5W50 from tolerance sheet 229.3 and then, sranjesuper from; https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post7536221 "And here is the best part, which is why THE CHAINS FAIL. Which is what nobody has mentioned yet. The vacuum hose underneath the intake, that routes PCV gases from the crank case to your intake. Mine was not only blocked, causing the gases and fuel vapours to REMAIN in the crankcase mixed with OIL, but it also had a hole in the vacuum tube itself, near the intake side, causing about 15% loss of power and and boost. So basically with a blocked PCV, you have extra gas that's running down your cylinder walls, mixing with your engine oil that is supposed to lubricate your chain. Gas eats the oils lubricating properties, and your chain slowly grinds away. During those few weeks that i drove, not knowing why my car feels slow, i noticed more CHAIN RATTLE during start ups. I was determinted to find this issue and believe it was a boost leak. I took my air filter housing off, and looked through a opening in the intake manifold, and saw a tube, that was covered in oil. So I knew oil was coming from somewhere and i saw also a small tiny pinhole in the vacuum tube itself, confirming where my boost leak is coming from. Once i took out the vacuum tube, i tried shaking it, to hear if the PCV valve is moving inside.. Nope, it was stuck... As soon as i fixed this vacuum tube, which was also something like $170 CDN for a piece of plastic tube and a valve , and did my oil change, my car doesn't have a rattle anymore, and got my full boost back.. So hopefully my chain will not have this issue, unless i already damaged it a bit...." So on my 2012 SLK250 Oil smells of gasoline. Updated software on fuel pump in the tank. Previously changed the thermostat, I will have to measure temperature again. Had a rattle noise that went away, after replacing oil, currently running 5W-40 Liqui Molly, which is MB 229.5 So today I decided to check crankcase vent, simple procedure is disconnect 90 degree rubber elbow at throttle and see is there is flow out but not in. (Suck and blow) Clogged solid, all the problems with chains and cam adjuster, because of 271-018-07-29 valve, which is $23.00 (Amazon) People on the Russian forum are keeping a spare valve and changing it out at each oil change. The valve is bolted to the engine just about the left engine mount. I maybe able to remove from the bottom ??? Today I removed with the intake manifold... One person commented that a new valve clogged solid by the third oil change.
 
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Hi all, have a few questions. I am in the middle of this project and have hit a road block. I have installed the new cam adjusters but they do not seem to be lining up. I have attached a few pictures to show this. When initially placing the holding tool, it had a hard time locking down. After putting the new cam adjusters (both intake and exhaust) the tool fell right into place. With this though, the middle ring and the cam adjuster are not in alignment with the top mark. I have not put the new tensioner in as I wanted to see if I was missing something. I marked the chain before removing the old adjusters but it almost looks like I need to shift the chain over a link on both the intake and exhaust. Thoughts on proceed? Secondly, when removing the old thermostat the spring portion snapped off in the timing cover, any ideas how to remove that? Thanks again for the help. [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image]
 
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