2012 G37xS oil

[mjk1967]

Picked up this car today. 118k on the clock.

So, this may be my first oil inquiry in all the years I've been here...

Anyone with 3.7 experience, chime in.

I'm actually contemplating doing something a bit different - Rotella T6 5/40 - thoughts ?

Just a weekend, maybe 1 day a week ride.

Thanks.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Rotella T6 is quite popular with Nissans, so it won't be much different at all

They also make it in 5w30. It is on sale this month at Napa for 26.99 a gallon

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Picked up this car today. 118k on the clock.

So, this may be my first oil inquiry in all the years I've been here...

Anyone with 3.7 experience, chime in.

I'm actually contemplating doing something a bit different - Rotella T6 5/40 - thoughts ?

Just a weekend, maybe 1 day a week ride.

Thanks.

Never a fan of using diesel oils in gas engines.
T6 5w40 has no petrol certifications however T6 0w40 is API SN.

I would just run a 40 grade in either M1 FS , Pennzoil Euro, or QS Euro. Price difference negligible.

 

[Vinner210210]

Ran PUP 5w30 for years and worked fine. Then ran Mobil 1 Euro FS 0w40 which seemed to quiet down the engine at high RPM when flooring it. Currently run Castrol Euro 5w40 as I currently have a stash of this due to a Walmart pricing error last year.

Any oil appears to be fine, though VQs seem to be a little harsher on oil and going to any Xw40 would be ideal. The engine itself is old and virtually bulletproof minus the gallery gasket issues.

Common issues to look out for those cars:

1. Gallery Gasket - I think these were replaced with metal gaskets for 2012 Fall manufactured cars and onwards.
2. Sunroof drain clog/leaks - the body control module is on the passenger side floor panel and if you have a leak, you may get electrical gremlins along with bad moldy smells.
3. Rear diff bushing - these seem to go crack and leak oil (look for streaks on your diff housing) - OEM does not sell this piece separate from the rear subframe so you either shell out the big $$$ or you can replace it with aftermarket urethane bushing (i.e. Z1 motorsports, etc.) - I did the cheapskate method of lifting the car up and filling up the empty bushing with epoxy.
4. Radiator and heater core hose and coolant bleeder port (near the heater core hose) leaks - will happen sooner or later due to degradation of the plastic and rubber.

 

[Hall]

0W-40 is recommended by a lot of people for VQ35/37 engines. I've used Castrol Edge 0W-40 in my a few times to confirm it wasn't my imagination, but at least with Edge, it was "noisy" and I didn't like the sound. Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 does really well but my last two changes have been with QS 5W-40 and I like it.

At the end of the day, anything off-the-shelf at Walmart or auto parts stores XX-30 or -40 will be fine. These engines don't care.

 

[Hall]

Sunroof drain clog/leaks - the body control module is on the passenger side floor panel and if you have a leak, you may get electrical gremlins along with bad moldy smells.

Someone came up with a great solution that re-routes both front drains and tees it into the AC condensate drain, keeping everything away from the BCM. It's shown in a YT video and is very DIY too.

Rear diff bushing - these seem to go crack and leak oil (look for streaks on your diff housing) - OEM does not sell this piece separate from the rear subframe so you either shell out the big $$$ or you can replace it with aftermarket urethane bushing (i.e. Z1 motorsports, etc.) - I did the cheapskate method of lifting the car up and filling up the empty bushing with epoxy.

My '08 G35 has 171k miles currently and the bushing still seems to be fine. I wonder if it wears out based on how it's driven (abused) ? If the time comes, I'm going to look into the epoxy fix.

Radiator and heater core hose and coolant bleeder port (near the heater core hose) leaks - will happen sooner or later due to degradation of the plastic and rubber.

Everyone with these VQ engines should do this proactively. Just buy a barbed metal hose coupling. With no-spill funnels, I don't think the bleeder is even necessary anymore.

 

[The Critic]

My '08 G35 has 171k miles currently and the bushing still seems to be fine. I wonder if it wears out based on how it's driven (abused) ? If the time comes, I'm going to look into the epoxy fix.

Unlikely. If there is any fluid staining on the subframe, it is toast.

1. Gallery Gasket - I think these were replaced with metal gaskets for 2012 Fall manufactured cars and onwards.

Its usually 2013+ models that have the updated gasket. OP's 2012 probably doesn't -- he should be checking his oil pressure with a manual gauge, regularly.

 

[Hall]

Unlikely. If there is any fluid staining on the subframe, it is toast.

What causes them to fail ?

 

[The Critic]

What causes them to fail ?

It’s a fluid filled bushing. They never last very long.

 

[factorytuned2012]

Picked up this car today. 118k on the clock.

So, this may be my first oil inquiry in all the years I've been here...

Anyone with 3.7 experience, chime in.

I'm actually contemplating doing something a bit different - Rotella T6 5/40 - thoughts ?

Just a weekend, maybe 1 day a week ride.

Thanks.

Nothing wrong with a full synthetic 5W-30 why the need for anything odd

 

[GR_CoB]

Had a few VQs. Ran Euro 5W-40 or 0W-40 oils with MB229.5 and Porsche A40 approvals at 5000-mile intervals. Some still consumed it, but none had timing chain issues. For example: an older friend from church ran conventional 5W-30 in his G37. As result timing chain is very loud at 150K, due for replacement soon, but not triggering any timing codes yet. And when replacing valve cover gaskets - there was way more sludge than he expected. But he's a "go by the book" guy, so he still uses 5W30 conventional, but at least he switched to the "severe service" schedule.

 

[Nessism1]

I'd run Restore and Protect 5W-30. Those engines are prone to sludging if abused, and it's hard to know how it was treated in the past.

 

[mjk1967]

Ran PUP 5w30 for years and worked fine. Then ran Mobil 1 Euro FS 0w40 which seemed to quiet down the engine at high RPM when flooring it. Currently run Castrol Euro 5w40 as I currently have a stash of this due to a Walmart pricing error last year.

Any oil appears to be fine, though VQs seem to be a little harsher on oil and going to any Xw40 would be ideal. The engine itself is old and virtually bulletproof minus the gallery gasket issues.

Common issues to look out for those cars:

1. Gallery Gasket - I think these were replaced with metal gaskets for 2012 Fall manufactured cars and onwards.
2. Sunroof drain clog/leaks - the body control module is on the passenger side floor panel and if you have a leak, you may get electrical gremlins along with bad moldy smells.
3. Rear diff bushing - these seem to go crack and leak oil (look for streaks on your diff housing) - OEM does not sell this piece separate from the rear subframe so you either shell out the big $$$ or you can replace it with aftermarket urethane bushing (i.e. Z1 motorsports, etc.) - I did the cheapskate method of lifting the car up and filling up the empty bushing with epoxy.
4. Radiator and heater core hose and coolant bleeder port (near the heater core hose) leaks - will happen sooner or later due to degradation of the plastic and rubber.

Yeah, I knew about the gasket..been researching for a long time. Mine is a May of '12 build.

 

[mjk1967]

Unlikely. If there is any fluid staining on the subframe, it is toast.


Its usually 2013+ models that have the updated gasket. OP's 2012 probably doesn't -- he should be checking his oil pressure with a manual gauge, regularly.

It was actually done midway through the 2012 build cycle.
They throw out 2013 out of caution.
As noted, mine is a May of 2012 build.

 

[mjk1967]

I'd run Restore and Protect 5W-30. Those engines are prone to sludging if abused, and it's hard to know how it was treated in the past.

The previous owner, who owned it the majority of it's life, was my age...he traded it for an E350, so I'm guessing he wasn't redlining it.

 

[The Critic]

It was actually done midway through the 2012 build cycle.
They throw out 2013 out of caution.
As noted, mine is a May of 2012 build.

Just test the oil pressure.

 

[mjk1967]

So, I was going to go the Valvoline restore route. However, Wally World only had 0-20 and 5-20.

So this is what I just tackled this morning.

 

[Hall]

Run it