2011 Sonata 2.4L GDI oil consumption

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I've got about 2000 miles on this run of "old" PU and the oil level is halfway between the full and add marks.
frown.gif


I think I've just got an oil burner.

I removed the pcv valve which looked good. It rattled when I shook it. I shot some WD40 thought it.

I guess I'll try Maxlife 5w30 next.
 
Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
On the GDI engine, recommend 5K OCI's with a quality synthetic oil due to fuel dilution issues.

This is just what I do on a 2010 Hyundai 2.4L DI
add - and I'm using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in it right now. Was using 5w-20 (for the cool season).
Never had to add oil during a OC duration. Level just a tad under the full level at 5k
 
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I had a 12 Kia optima with the same 2.4 GDI powerplant. I used FS conventional 5w30 , peak conventional 5w30 , QS Q-Horsepower 0w20 and G-oil 5w30 in it . It usually used at least .50 qt of oil during the 3,750 mile OCI I was using. Sometimes a bit more but the oil was pitch black and smelled like a gas can by that mileage all highway driving. I will say though that using the G-oil one time it didn't use a drop and it was doing so well on that oil that I let it go 5k. But unless you have a stash of it like I do you probably will have a hard time finding it. It did run nice and quiet on it though. Finally got rid of the car because the dealer was useless and the car's fuel economy was absurd. You may also consider replacing the PCV valve. IIRC it was very easy to get to on the passenger's side of the valve cover. If it is expensive it probably wouldn't hurt to at least remove it and clean it. That might help if it is letting oil pass through that way.
 
these are pretty sad stories---by today's standards---just MO, I know many people who would not know how to open the hood if they had to----they do not know you are supposed to 'check the oil' occasionally.
How much more expensive is it to build a 2.4 which doesn't burn oil vs one that does?
 
Cleaning the PCV valve doesn't always solve the problem. PCV valves have a spring in them that can develop metal fatigue. When that happens, you are more likely to lose oil through the PCV valve.
 
Not all GDi engines burn oil, and there is no empirical evidence that a synthetic will stop or even slow down fuel dilution. Many folks are now using a low saps conventional at a very conservative 3000-3700K mile OCI since changing the oil often is one promising theory in this fight against diluted motor oil. Valvoline conventional and Mobil Super 5000 are two that come to mind. But at the rate you describe, I would try Maxlife etc.
 
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