2011 Mazda6 150k miles - List of Repairs

Joined
Dec 26, 2007
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Location
NC
For those interested in what parts/maintenance I've put into a 2011 Mazda6 with MT. Bought the car new in March '11. Will update if it makes it to 200k.

21k miles: Air Filter, Cabin Filter and half a can of 3M car undercoating to repair a scrape to the frame.
24k miles: New headlight bulb
30k miles: New tires and alignment
32k miles: New grommet which fell out and caused underbody shield rattle ($3.99 dealer part)
40k miles: Cabin Filter
48k miles: New rear brake pads and rotors
51k miles: New headlight bulb
54k miles: New Air Filter and Cabin Filter
57k miles: Alignment
58k miles: Replaced manual trans-axle gear oil and refilled with Redline MT-90 75W90.
60k miles: New headlight bulb (see a trend?)
70k miles: Cabin Air Filter and (4) new Motorcraft spark plugs
72k miles: Multiple recalls addressed by dealer (including one for spider webs!)
73k miles: Exhaust leak - repaired exhaust gasket and weld job (Meineke did a great job for ~$95)
75k miles: Replaced OEM battery (pre-emptive replacement as battery was 5yrs old).
100k miles: 4 new tires
101k miles: 2 new front struts, 2 new rear shocks, new front sway bar links
113k miles: Coolant flush
116k miles: Replaced Takata shrapnel airbag under recall
116k miles: New rear brake pads and rotors (Still on original fronts!)
116k miles: Left axle failure. New left front CV Axle
116k miles: Brake fluid replacements
116k miles: Replaced manual trans-axle gear oil, 75W90.
125k miles: Front engine cradle/suframe rusted out. Replaced by dealer under recall.
125k miles: New front brake pads and rotors. (originals lasted this long!)
136k miles: New Spark plugs
137k miles: New Air Filter
141k miles: Rear sub-frame rusted out near shocks and multiple holes. Junkyard sub frame installed. Cost to me: $600. Dealer wanted $4,500!
145k miles: Replaced Bank 1 O2 sensor.
148k miles: New battery
148k miles: Replaced Mass Airflow Sensor

Car still runs good. Clutch shudders when the car sits overnight for first few minutes. 2nd gear grinds unless I baby it - likely old syncros. Will need 4 new tires soon. Let me know what you think.
 
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A good friend of mine just bought a 2010 6i Grand Touring. We will be covering many of the general maintenance task in the coming months. This list is helpful, and came at a very convenient time. Thanks for posting.
 
Other than the subframes rotting out, that's about what I would expect. The next 50k I'd expect a repair or two.
 
my previous DD was 08 Mazda6i; we are still keeping it in our family; I bought ti used with 50K miles back in 2010; import from NY, it was a fleet car; currently the car is on 248K I needed to replace a few things while in my possesion: catalytic converter, o2 sensor, 1 fuel injector, 1 engine mount, then most recently starter and knock sensor; moreover, it was involved in small accident to the rear on the parking lot; also I included preventive maintenance along the way such as fuel pump, engine mounts all 3, another 2 o2 sensors, another catalytic converter - the car is specified for CA so it has 2 catalytics, PCV valve and other everyday wear and tear items

Yet, the car drives like a charm and is very smooth and still good looking; for the money that is worth it, we decide it is worth to keep it and repair it as long the way as its is reasonable cost; the car is capable well over 300K as is and I don't see may problems ahead because all the parts we put it.

so yes, to answer to your question, id keep it
IMG_7697.jpeg
 
141k miles: Rear sub-frame rusted out near shocks and multiple holes. Junkyard sub frame installed. Cost to me: $600. Dealer wanted $4,500!

Yikes, talk about a stealership! Just keep going basic maintenance and keep it going. Do you guys put salt on the roads in NC or was the car from the rust belt originally?
 
Why would you replace a battery with age? We have a battery in our 1994 Ford Econoline from 2007 it’s an Interstate battery and hasn’t failed yet. I only do that on like suspension parts and stuff and I replace the axles in pairs but that’s just me.
 
Why would you replace a battery with age? We have a battery in our 1994 Ford Econoline from 2007 it’s an Interstate battery and hasn’t failed yet. I only do that on like suspension parts and stuff and I replace the axles in pairs but that’s just me.
I was noticing hard starts. I let them die now since I carry a jumper pack in my trunk. In fact my last one I waited until it died, jumped it and then drove to Autozone for a new battery. The old one was leaking and had corrosion all over. It was just under 5yrs old which is about average here in the south.
 
I was noticing hard starts. I let them die now since I carry a jumper pack in my trunk. In fact my last one I waited until it died, jumped it and then drove to Autozone for a new battery. The old one was leaking and had corrosion all over. It was just under 5yrs old which is about average here in the south.
Nice I am in the south as well. I just replaced the 3 year old battery in my Camry today had the Everstart Maxx in it got a Duralast to put in it since we have read bad things about the new Walmart batteries. I think the cold killed the Everstart though. Still I’m surprised that Interstate battery in my van has lasted as long as it has 13 years and still going strong.
 
Try some AC Delco Friction Modified mtf for the 2nd gear grind. Works on Honda/Acura manuals and they have a tsb to use it instead of replacing expensive parts and labor.
 
My son has an 09 purchased at 112k. Now at close to 200k and we've done almost nothing to it in that time. Serpentine belt broke is only required repair I remember. Still original tranny fluid even. Every time I get in it I'm amazed at how well it still drives, especially given the fact it's been rather neglected by my two sons. I get ahold of it every once and a while and check everything or else they likely would have grenaded it by now.

Reading this I need to look for rust underneath.
 
IMO, that subframe did not appear to be in need of replacement based on the photos, but that is me. I do commend the op on doing a replacement for approximately a 1/7th of the cost asked by the dealership. Good job!
 
Aside from the subrame/subframes, not bad at all...but let’s face it, subframes are a big deal. Very very labor intensive job...done a few...and you usually have to repair more than just the subframe but the time you’re done.
 
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