New To Me Car

[BrendanC]

Update: i ordered a $130 bolt in Cat as a proof of concept. if this fixes the issue (it does have O2 spacers on it due to efficiency codes) i will run that cat until it dies and shell out a little more for a nicer unit.

this stems from a read off of driveaccord forums. a commenter there basically said their car around 320k miles started to lose power, and have to wind out gears to go anywhere. They said by replacing the cat with a bolt in walker unit, the car drove like new. the concern is exactly what my car feels like and idle vacuum is 1 PSI higher than the 03 accord in my signature. this leads me to believe a plugged cat. this will be the last money i throw at this engine to try and get the power back.

 

[BrendanC]

Replaced the cat and no change other than being able to remove the O2 sensor spacers. used 3/8"x2 stainless bolts with washers and a lock washer against the nut.

Also replaced the front main seal as it was weeping. Figured while i was in there i would throw on a new $40 Dorman harmonic balancer. the entire job took under 10 minutes including removing and re-installing the passenger front tire. Spent some time to clean up the timing cover aswell.

the car isnt misfiring but when the "lag" in power occurs between 2-2.5k rpm the car is pulling 9.5-10 deg of timing as knock retard and the car is running with basically no timing until after 2500 rpm when it starts to pull like a freight train.

 

[IndyIan]

Anything loose or rattling on the engine block, setting off the knock sensor? Or check the wiring for the knock sensor? That is an odd one.

 

[BrendanC]

Anything loose or rattling on the engine block, setting off the knock sensor? Or check the wiring for the knock sensor? That is an odd one.

i cant hear anything loose and the wiring looked great when i changed the knock sensor. i have no idea what is causing it. i dont hear knocking, it just looses power after 2k and it comes back in at 2500. It sucks because at 65-75 mph it has to downhift at any hill because it has no timing in it.

 

[BrendanC]

update: almost 5k miles on it since i bought it. purchased with 152,288 on it IIRC. Transmission is NOT happy when cold but acts 100% normal after the first run up through the gears. like to neutral out going into third the first time. also takes forever to engage into drive. after the morning it acts perfect the rest of the day.

 

[BrendanC]

update: almost 5k miles on it since i bought it. purchased with 152,288 on it IIRC. Transmission is NOT happy when cold but acts 100% normal after the first run up through the gears. like to neutral out going into third the first time. also takes forever to engage into drive. after the morning it acts perfect the rest of the day.

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after changing the CQ Premium 85515 to an OG Fram XG8a the cold delay into drive/shift to 3rd is gone 100%. my only guess is the CQ was loaded up for being the first filter on it at over 400k miles. i have the same CQ Premium on my other accord with ZERO issues.

 

[BrendanC]

valve cover gaskets were puking, appeared to be OEM. all i could get today was felpro so we’ll see how long it lasts.

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Had it apart again today to do a valve adjustment and new radiator, thermostat/tstat housing, and radiator hoses.

none of the valves were super out of wack. and it still has zero power but atleast i’m not worried about that OE radiator blowing up anymore.

 

[lovcom]

Thanks for posting your car renovation diary here, as I find your journey very interesting and entertaining. It seems you are enjoying this project, and you don't seem to mind the repair challenges. This project engages you.

However, from an ROI perspective, it looks kind of like a disastrous purchase. But I get you, because I get the sense that turning wrenches and getting old cars working is an enjoyable hobby for you, and that is what you are getting out of all this "trouble": fun and a sense of completion, which must feel fantastic.

So this direction works for you. For most others, it would be more efficient to buy a newer used car with far fewer problems, and better gas mileage. There are many that one could buy that are not laden with all that new computer-tech stuff you hate, that are not essential to basic transportation, and are still very good shape, and would require far less renovation.

 

[BrendanC]

Thanks for posting your car renovation diary here, as I find your journey very interesting and entertaining. It seems you are enjoying this project, and you don't seem to mind the repair challenges. This project engages you.

However, from an ROI perspective, it looks kind of like a disastrous purchase. But I get you, because I get the sense that turning wrenches and getting old cars working is an enjoyable hobby for you, and that is what you are getting out of all this "trouble": fun and a sense of completion, which must feel fantastic.

So this direction works for you. For most others, it would be more efficient to buy a newer used car with far fewer problems, and better gas mileage. There are many that one could buy that are not laden with all that new computer-tech stuff you hate, that are not essential to basic transportation, and are still very good shape, and would require far less renovation.

nothing i’ve done to this car is “expensive” i have the tools and know how to do it all. most hard parts have come from rock auto clearance deals including the radiator, hoses, thermostat, brake rotors etc. the rest of the parts come heavily discounted through AAP be it through speedperks points/coupons, clearance or my commercial account and heavy adjustments from my local general manager.

from a ROI standpoint, my truck gets 8-10 MPG while this gets 20-22mpg. i drive 216 miles a week in commuting.

16k miles and some change since i bought it at 20mpg = ~800 gallons of fuel.

16k miles in my truck at an average of 8mpg (it can get much worse in the city) = ~2000 gallons of fuel.

at a average price of $2.60 a gallon

car = $2,080
truck = $5,200

for a savings of $3,120 in a year on fuel. much less tires/wear and tear on a 3/4 ton pickup vs an accord. look up the cost of 35x15.5r22 tires.

it may have needed some work but the car was $3000 and i estimate that i have $1500 in parts so for $4500 it isn’t bad. starts every morning and does 90mph down I10 like the new $100k cars.

 

[BrendanC]

even ran it through the car wash on the way back to the house