Check out Bulletin PIP5203A, No mention of VIN breaks....Just year models.
2011 Buick Regal stuck in limp-mode
- Thread starter 92saturnsl2
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Very grateful for that, I think you might be onto something. This particular car is a 06/2010 build, but 2011 model year. There is a whine when running that varies from imperceptible to noticeable that varies with engine speed. I attributed that to a bad idler pulley or something (only spent less than an hour with the car). Given its history of possible engine replacement, I think this might be a smoking gun.
I'll study the noise further and if the HP fuel pump is the source, I'll pull the valve cover off and try to identify components. The hard part is going to be determining what is actually supposed to be in there.
The HPFP is easy to test. Unplug the electrical connector with the engine running, that should command max pressure from the HPFP.
If nothing happens, it's very common that the solenoid inside the pump has failed. Replace the pump, and I'd bet she runs like a top.
Then you pull the pump, check the roller and cam lobe surface carefully.
If nothing happens, it's very common that the solenoid inside the pump has failed. Replace the pump, and I'd bet she runs like a top.
Then you pull the pump, check the roller and cam lobe surface carefully.
Based on the bits of info that the seller has provided, I'm 99% certain that I'm dealing with a mismatch with the cam & actuator which was caused by a midyear change for 2011 Regal models. There is a VIN split that occurred in the 2011 model year, where early ones received a 2010-design engine, and later models received a 2011-design engine. (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10114592-9999.pdf)
I'm getting the same codes, noise and driveability issues that are noted in the bulletin and these issues began after a recent engine swap. The seller stated that a reman Jasper engine was swapped in; I don't think this is the case, but rather a used engine or junkyard pull was used.
I'm getting the same codes, noise and driveability issues that are noted in the bulletin and these issues began after a recent engine swap. The seller stated that a reman Jasper engine was swapped in; I don't think this is the case, but rather a used engine or junkyard pull was used.
You're definitely on to something. Looks like the next step for you is going to be pulling the VC to verify what parts you have.
Yep, have a shortage of time but hopefully I can at least pull the VC tomorrow to identify parts and confirm my suspicion.
If it is what I suspect (wrong cam & actuator), then the question becomes how do I get the part. GM has discontinued the 12608300 intake camshaft which is what goes in the 2010 and earlier design LAF (2.4L) engines, and I can't find it anywhere. Chevy Equinox and GMC Terrain also used this part.
I got it up on the lift and was impressed-- no leaks (just seeping in places), suspension & axles look good, decent exhaust, minimal rust. The underside of the engine looked very clean, so the jury is still out whether this is actually a reman Jasper engine or a used one. There was a huge difference in grime on the underside of the transmission vs the engine, with the engine being almost squeeky clean compared to trans, so the engine has definitely been replaced-- also some wiring harnesses not being tied down and just laid over the exhaust (!) was the other clue.
All in all it's a very clean car for 200K. Right now it sets at 199998, looking forward to get it fixed up right and the rollover being a fresh start.
If its Jasper there will be a serial number sticker on one side of the engine, usually above the oil pan rail
I'm definitely dealing with a mismatched intake cam & actuator just as the bulletin described. Special thanks to @clinebarger -- you saved me a lot of time!
Top end looks just fine, nothing unusual there. Looks as though this reman engine was run for quite a while in reduced power mode due to this condition.
Now the question becomes how much work is it going to be to replace the intake cam & actuator? Tight working space in that area, and just looking from above, it seems the timing cover doesn't run all the way bottom to top. I just need to get to the tensioner and guides to relieve slack in the chain I'm hoping.
Top end looks just fine, nothing unusual there. Looks as though this reman engine was run for quite a while in reduced power mode due to this condition.
Now the question becomes how much work is it going to be to replace the intake cam & actuator? Tight working space in that area, and just looking from above, it seems the timing cover doesn't run all the way bottom to top. I just need to get to the tensioner and guides to relieve slack in the chain I'm hoping.
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Seems like an interesting project. Hopefully $1500 means little to your friend and he can buy his wife something decent.
I half expected the holier-than-thou replies. Are you here to help or judge? If the latter, please refrain from commenting further. Keep tabs on the topic though, because I'm about to school you on how to turn a $1500 project car into a car worth $3K+ that's a reliable daily driver while learning and having fun doing it. Not your thing? Cool, then don't comment.
You should be able to remove the tensioner from the rear of the head and the sprocket/phaser bolt from the end of the cam and pull the phaser off the end of the cam and just keep some pressure on it. If you lose timing, it's not really all that hard of a job to pull the front cover (a little tight, but not a big deal typically - at least on the cars that I've done).
If you're dealing with a Jasper, then it will be painted battleship grey and as Timmastertech said, have a red serial tag on it (though I don't remember them being riveted on, so possibly could have fallen off). Also look for heat sensitive tags (a tag held in place by a heat sensitive goop which falls off in an overheat condition)
If you're dealing with a Jasper, then it will be painted battleship grey and as Timmastertech said, have a red serial tag on it (though I don't remember them being riveted on, so possibly could have fallen off). Also look for heat sensitive tags (a tag held in place by a heat sensitive goop which falls off in an overheat condition)
All I see that might indicate a rebuilt engine is several green paint marks in various places. There is a plug sealed with what appears to be RTV which I don't think is factory (see photo) on the flywheel side of the engine. There is also a metal plate bolted to the side of the cam cover but the sticker is long worn off and illegible.
Otherwise it looks like a normal used engine except the bottom end (oil pan and slightly above) is very clean (bright aluminum), especially when compared to the transmission which has oily grime and oxidation that I would consider normal for 200K.
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Can anyone comment on the best place to find a replacement (correct) intake cam? GM part number is 12608300, which has been discontinued for eons and no dealer locally or online has them. Some online dealers in Canada show them in stock, but they don't have any either when contacted by telephone.
My friend made a trip to the local dealer to ask them about this, and they say the part has been superseded to 19368199. Best I can tell, that number directs to a refurbished camshaft that may have once been available from GM for these 2010 and 2011 (unicorn) engines, but nobody has them either except a small business with the name "AEP - Asian Engine Parts" which doesn't inspire a lot of confidence, and they want too much for one.
Is a junkyard cam appropriate for this engine? Cam actuates the valves via roller rockers, and GM themselves instructed techs to swap the old cams into a new engine while replacement 2010-model service engines weren't available. Is this a good idea? I know of three vehicles that use this camshaft:
2010 Chevy Equinox 2.4L
2010 GMC Terrain 2.4L
2011 Buick Regal 2.4L (early models before the VIN cutoff)
Any input on the viability of a used cam on a used engine, or ideas on where to source a new replacement part would be most appreciated!
My friend made a trip to the local dealer to ask them about this, and they say the part has been superseded to 19368199. Best I can tell, that number directs to a refurbished camshaft that may have once been available from GM for these 2010 and 2011 (unicorn) engines, but nobody has them either except a small business with the name "AEP - Asian Engine Parts" which doesn't inspire a lot of confidence, and they want too much for one.
Is a junkyard cam appropriate for this engine? Cam actuates the valves via roller rockers, and GM themselves instructed techs to swap the old cams into a new engine while replacement 2010-model service engines weren't available. Is this a good idea? I know of three vehicles that use this camshaft:
2010 Chevy Equinox 2.4L
2010 GMC Terrain 2.4L
2011 Buick Regal 2.4L (early models before the VIN cutoff)
Any input on the viability of a used cam on a used engine, or ideas on where to source a new replacement part would be most appreciated!
If the used cam from a junkyard is the only option, then that's what you do.
Is camshaft failure common on these engines? If not, then there is nothing wrong with using a used one
Is camshaft failure common on these engines? If not, then there is nothing wrong with using a used one
It's just a camshaft, get a used one can call it good. Same with the actuator, GM never really had issues with those. It was the solenoids that were the problem. I'd have no issue using used parts.
That's DEFINITELY a reman motor. That little silver disc with the green around it is an overheat marker, if the engine overheats the center pops up like one of those turkey tab's you use at Thanksgiving.
That's DEFINITELY a reman motor. That little silver disc with the green around it is an overheat marker, if the engine overheats the center pops up like one of those turkey tab's you use at Thanksgiving.
2011 Buick Regal for sale, minor issue, probably a quick fix.
(who believes stuff like that. If it was a quick fix why didn't the owner fix it? Who paid for a Jasper engine and a Jasper transmission and labor?)
(who believes stuff like that. If it was a quick fix why didn't the owner fix it? Who paid for a Jasper engine and a Jasper transmission and labor?)
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@ the OP so you have to change the camshaft? I take it, it's a transvers mounted motor, and you have to pull the motor then? Honest question, I'm not saying the car isn't worth it.
I don't see it being a major repair and nothing that would warrant engine removal. This engine is different than most DOHC VVT transverse 4 cylinders I've seen. The chain tensioner is mounted externally and can be removed from the back of the engine, and the timing cover only goes up about halfway; very manageable.
I'm hoping I can remove the guide at the top of the engine, tensioner and squeeze the cam and actuator out while the chain stays in place on the other timed parts. If that fails, nothing about removing the timing cover and getting parts aligned / timed looks daunting-- judging by the Youtube videos I've watched. Nothing at all like a transverse DOHC V6, of which I've done a few.
Likely because he doesn't have the skills/ability to fix it himself and lacks the time/money/etc. to take it to a place that can diagnose and repair it properly. Easier for people to dump the car and move on-- Some come into money somehow (most often tax time) and want a new ride, others get into a high interest loan on another 5-10+ year old car. That's how most cars end up as mechanic specials, I've seen it more times than I can count.
Not me and that's all that matters. Again, I have zero risk here (it's not my car) and have very little time in it so far, other than from the comfort of my computer chair posting on this forum.
Going to make a visit to the pull-a-part tomorrow with my friend and see if we can source a cam and actuator. That will eat up an hour of my time, but junkyards are my happy place. I usually spend more of my time looking at stuff than I do pulling parts.
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