2011 Accord, oil & filter choices?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Any Honda Engine WITH VCM (Variable Cylinder Management where the engine runs on 3/4 or 6 cylinders are all lemons).

The Honda Coupe V-6 is non-VCM as are all the Acura V-6 engines. $-cylinder engines are all fine they say.

Won't be long before for a massive recall and potential buy-back and or engine replacements for all..depending on how cases go.

Owners are being contacted to join class-actions.
 
Last edited:
Right Buster and go through 4+qts every OCM period.

I have and I know through experience. Loose rings need higher viscosity and these rings out of a showroom on all VCM V-6 engines are like ring clearances off a 400,000 mile old engine.

Honda in Europe uses 5W-30 and 0w-40 synthetics in the VCM engine and they have a lot less problems. I wonder why?
 
Last edited:
Well, the new GF-5/SN should have lower volatility. Or is this with any 20 grade?

My car has always consumed 1/2qt per 4-5k miles. I have the 2.4 though.
 
Redline 5W-30 with those qualifications and a GRP V. synthetic showing a 40WT at full temp. is what this engine needs to protect from heat/molecular destruction and give the best possible seal and keep things cool! It fries oil from a 20wt to a 10 wt in 1,000 miles. Tears up the insulators on NGK Iridium plugs to where insulators are near gone and the ceramic flakes off into the cylinders at only 12,000 miles. Huge heat issues. Huge pressure issues. Huge carboning up issues in the combustion chamber of cylinders that "shut off" in the "ECO mode".

VCM is Honda's worst nightmare come true! The word "reliability" and "Honda" are always in the same sentence and to have a court force a major recall will put Honda out of business. So they have chosen for the moment to "pretend there is no issue". "No comment..litigation in progress". We will see what juries have to say about this soon.

German Castrol 0W-30 would be good as well.

The V-6 VCM consumes 4-4.5 qts per OCM (9,500 miles) using a GRP III. synthetic or conventional oil. Can you believe Honda told me "this is acceptable" in a one year old car with 12,000 miles and has been like this from day one?

With RP 5W-20 1/3 less. Moving to RL 5W-30 and done.
 
Last edited:
I just started using chevron supreme 5w30 GF-5/SN 2 days ago.. wow. I think it is better than castrol syntec. I will keep you an update.

In my opinion, synthetic oil are not worth it.. too expensive.. get the dino with GF-5/SN.
 
Interesting links. It seems oil consumption has also infected the four cylinders. So, every one of the VCMs is a lemon but AHM continues to sell them? It seems it would be pretty easy to disable the VCM and convert them into the reliable coupe/Acura non-VCM engines. And this has been going on for four years and Honda just keeps on selling them?
 
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I just started using chevron supreme 5w30 GF-5/SN 2 days ago.. wow. I think it is better than castrol syntec. I will keep you an update.

In my opinion, synthetic oil are not worth it.. too expensive.. get the dino with GF-5/SN.



The 2011 Honda's require at least a semi-syn. I have not seen a conventional 0w-20 on the shelves yet.

And while Chevron Supreme is a good oil, I bet most GRP III syns would hold up much better past 5000 miles.
 
Yeah,I got one. When in doubt;Let FZ1 figure it out! Take it to the dealer,along with your preferred oil,and let them change it,using the Honda oem filter. Can't beat dealer documented warranty compliance.
 
thats why I don't recommend chevron supreme for 2011 accord. but if you have older honda accord, use chevron.. it is a good oil. My friend have 2005 honda accord , he use chevron supreme 5w20. it is over 200k miles..

So for 2011 accord guy, I recommend 0w20 Honda synthetic blend. You can buy it from online $5 a quart plus shipping.. or you can buy mobil 0w20

http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint08.html
 
Thanks for the advice everyone!

I went to the dealer to order the cargo net, and complained to the parts manager about the cost of the Honda oil. After me telling him I can buy oil cheaper everywhere else, he agreed to sell me a case of the semi-syn 0w-20 and a filter for $60. So I am set for the next few changes.

By the time the Honda oil is gone, I am hoping some stores around here start stocking 0w-20 oils. I know PP and QSUD both have a 0w-20, but I have never seen it on the shelf. I can get M1 AFE 0w-20 locally, but it is not SN rated. The one thing the owners manual is clear on, is that you must use SN oil. My hope is that by fall there will be more Hondas on the road that require 0w-20, so more places will start to stock it.
 
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
My hope is that by fall there will be more Hondas on the road that require 0w-20, so more places will start to stock it.
Again, it is not a 'requirement'
smile.gif
.
 
Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
My hope is that by fall there will be more Hondas on the road that require 0w-20, so more places will start to stock it.
Again, it is not a 'requirement'
smile.gif
.


Actually, for 2011 Honda vehicles it is. Honda says only 0w-20 is to be used. For my lease, I had to sign a piece of paper saying I understand that Honda has new requirements for oil. And that if I get my oil changed anywhere that is not a Honda dealer, that it is my responsibility to make sure the proper weight is used. The paper never said my warranty is void, just implied that in the unlikely event that some mechanical failure occurs, that I have to show I used the proper oil. So while I am under warranty, I am running the only weight listed in the owners manual, 0w-20.
 
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
My hope is that by fall there will be more Hondas on the road that require 0w-20, so more places will start to stock it.
Again, it is not a 'requirement'
smile.gif
.


Actually, for 2011 Honda vehicles it is. Honda says only 0w-20 is to be used. For my lease, I had to sign a piece of paper saying I understand that Honda has new requirements for oil. And that if I get my oil changed anywhere that is not a Honda dealer, that it is my responsibility to make sure the proper weight is used. The paper never said my warranty is void, just implied that in the unlikely event that some mechanical failure occurs, that I have to show I used the proper oil. So while I am under warranty, I am running the only weight listed in the owners manual, 0w-20.

Wolfc70, you're correct. Before 2008, Honda owners' manuals stated that 5W-30 could be substituted for 5W-20 weight oil if the latter wasn't available. Beginning in 2008, however, Honda listed only one weight, 5W-20, as the recommended oil, and for 2011 that weight is 0W-20. This, I believe, is tied to the engine manufacturing changes described in an obscure Honda/Acura press release (and CAFE, of course):

"The most significant [improvement] for 2011 is the use of numerous friction reducing technologies applied to both the 2.4L I-4 and the 3.5L V-6 engines. The reduction of internal operation friction enables the two engines to deliver improved and class-leading fuel efficiency.

Both the 4- and 6-cylinder engines make use of a new plateau honing technique for the cylinder bores that generates a smoother surface. As a result, the piston rings achieve more consistent contact with the cylinder walls which generates improved ring-to-bore sealing along with reduced overall friction.

With the 2.4L I-4, the pistons make use of a new low-tension piston ring that reduces operating friction while the 3.5L V-6 uses a redesigned ion-plated piston ring design. In addition, the outer skirts of both the 4- and 6-cylinder pistons now feature a molybdenum coating applied in a unique dot-pattern application. The result is reduced overall friction as the pistons move within the cylinder bores.

Other friction reducing items include the use of lower viscosity engine oil (0W-20 weight versus the previous 5W-20 weight oil) . . . "
 
Last edited:
Again folks, if you go to www.m-w.com and plug in *requirement* and then *recommendation*, you'll see my point
smile.gif
.

Anyway, people always talk about voiding their warranty with oil weights etc and it's just gibberish (they can't ever void your warranty....case by case claim denial, yes). Someone PLEASE find me a definitive case of this happening. The MMA requires that a manufacturer would have to prove that 5w20 or 5w30 caused the failure in an engine that "RECOMMENDS" 0w20. They will not be able to prove this beyond a reasonable doubt.

EDIT:
Also the k24s in the 2011 cars have not changed from a physical standpoint (ie oil galley diameters, bearing clearings, ring clearances etc etc) further emphasizing that the "recommendation" of 0w20 over 5w20 or 5w30 is because the friction reducing technologies ALLOW it, not NEED it.
 
Last edited:
09: You're not going to get an argument from me WRT to "recommendation" vs. "requirement." My only point was the same as Wolf's -- Honda now "recommends" only one weight oil -- 0W-20. I happen to agree with you that there is a LOT of needless concern being expressed here and elsewhere regarding oil weight and warranty requirements.

I also agree with you WRT your point about oil galley diameters and rod and main bearing clearances being unchanged. That said, I didn't make up the contents of the Honda press release: The 2011 engines are manufactured using a new cylinder honing process and at least one of the piston rings (the oil control ring, perhaps?) is different.
 
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
The local dealer is barely competent, so I wont go there unless I absolutely have to.


At some point your Honda is going to require warranty work and your alleged "barely competent" dealer will be the one who will perform the work. I would have to think that someone with a reasonable level of intelligence would base their decision to purchase a vehicle on the reputation of the dealer and their service facility. It really irks me how many on this board have a dislike for dealers. It's like saying just because one guy posts his oil change mistake on here that everyone who changes their own oil must be an idiot. Get to know the service writer at your dealer and ask him to have your car serviced by a senior tech and you will have few issues.
 
Originally Posted By: Beagle2000
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
The local dealer is barely competent, so I wont go there unless I absolutely have to.


At some point your Honda is going to require warranty work and your alleged "barely competent" dealer will be the one who will perform the work. I would have to think that someone with a reasonable level of intelligence would base their decision to purchase a vehicle on the reputation of the dealer and their service facility. It really irks me how many on this board have a dislike for dealers. It's like saying just because one guy posts his oil change mistake on here that everyone who changes their own oil must be an idiot. Get to know the service writer at your dealer and ask him to have your car serviced by a senior tech and you will have few issues.


I traveled 110 miles to buy my Honda. The local Honda dealer has had a bad reputation for years, for both sales and service. I heard and witnessed some pretty bad things, from stripped spark plugs, finger tight wheel nuts (two co-workers had this happen, on different occasions. One, the wheel actually came off the car, doing $3k in damage, and the dealer insisted it was "operator" error.) oil/grease stains on seats, loose drain plugs, etc.

Ironically, the Nissan dealer next door (same dealer name) has a fantastic reputation. For some reason, they are having issues finding competent, caring employees at the Honda facility.

I am not bashing all dealers, just the local one. Some do outstanding work and take pride in customer satisfaction. For warranty work, I will go to the one 22 miles away. I have much more confidence in them. In fact, if they had the model I wanted on the lot, I would have bought it from them.
 
Originally Posted By: Hounds
09: You're not going to get an argument from me WRT to "recommendation" vs. "requirement." My only point was the same as Wolf's -- Honda now "recommends" only one weight oil -- 0W-20. I happen to agree with you that there is a LOT of needless concern being expressed here and elsewhere regarding oil weight and warranty requirements.

I also agree with you WRT your point about oil galley diameters and rod and main bearing clearances being unchanged. That said, I didn't make up the contents of the Honda press release: The 2011 engines are manufactured using a new cylinder honing process and at least one of the piston rings (the oil control ring, perhaps?) is different.



Thanks for the reply. Yes the friction reducing technologies and potentially different rings are great. Probably part, if not all, of the reason 0w20 is spec-ed now. I always wondered how the k24z3 Accords are showing better EPA MPG estimates than my wife's 09 and I'm sure this has to do with it. I broke her engine in on the FF for 6k miles (25% MM) and then did 2 6k OCIs of 5w20 GTX dino and since then it has been PP 5w30. I notice no less fuel economy on the 30 weight than the 20 weight. Why am I running PP 5w30? I have a ton of it, that's why
smile.gif
. Am I afraid of warranty issues? Not at all.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom