2010 Mazda 3 2.5 MZR 6600 miles - M1 FS 0W-40 SP
- Thread starter chris719
- Start date
That's pretty good! I guess keep an eye on the aluminum and see if that is normal for your car, or elevating. Other than that, the low viscosity could be from being mixed with the previous oil that carried over (if it was a thinner viscosity). M1 0W40 is know to thin pretty quickly. If you sample next time and are using same oil, you should get a better idea of actual viscosity loss. TBN is very healthy (starts >10) and oxidation is only about 7 points higher than virgin, so there was plenty of mileage left to go if you had decided to keep running. All in all, an excellent run.
Glad to see you mention virgin/used oxidation values. That's something that most haven't looked at historically, especially considering most UOA's on this site are done by B/S Labs. I believe once oxidation goes over 17 from virgin baseline, you should drain the oil.
Report looks really good.
Scroll down to "Typical Lubricants Guidelines"Glad to see you mention virgin/used oxidation values. That's something that most haven't looked at historically, especially considering most UOA's on this site are done by B/S Labs. I believe once oxidation goes over 17 from virgin baseline, you should drain the oil.
Report looks really good.
https://www.oaitesting.com/reading-reports.aspx
Doesn't look like the new M1 FS formulation (XoM wrecks another good one!) is doing anything extra-ordinary for an assumed completely worn-in engine.
Ignoring wear metals (probably should, given no trend presented) Seems serviceable without too much concern
Total miles on this motor? Over 200K mi?
For number peepers without a reference or reason, our 2017 high milage Subaru evidenced
2ppm Al
6ppm Fe
1ppm Cu
across 9K miles service OCI, starting and ending with 20 grade (8.07cSt)
- Arco
Yeah this engine doesn’t burn anything, 150k miles.
150k total on engine. My father was driving it for several months going 5 miles a day in total, so that may have played a role. I started driving it again for the last few months of the OCI. The oil was fairly dirty looking and this engine has lived on random synthetic 0W/5W-20s until this last change.
So it’s likely that the 15-20% of 20grade oil left in the engine at the oil change is the reason for your lower viscosity, NOT mechanical shear. M1’s 0w40 has never been a slouch in performance and I’m not even a Mobil fan. Did you ever run back to back samples on this oil and compare the 2nd set of viscosity measurements to the first?
No but I don’t think the viscosity is a problem. You’re right that it’s been diluted somewhat by the last fill. I thought this viscosity was fine and on par with other UOA of this oil. Actually better than a few other UOAs.
But you said you thought the M1 sheared? Dilution with a thinner fluid is not shear.
Just being careless with my words. I would not say there is zero shear either, though. This engine has a simple oiling system and drains almost all of its volume also based on how much I put into used bottles. It clearly does "shear" to some degree, however small, or else we would see slight oxidative thickening.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Nice UOA.
I've been happy when using this same brand and viscosity. This one sheared about 2cst..... still in my comfort zone.... which is 10+ at the time of oil drain.
The HPL No VII 10w30 that I purchased for the Hyundai should finish above 10 also.
I've been happy when using this same brand and viscosity. This one sheared about 2cst..... still in my comfort zone.... which is 10+ at the time of oil drain.
The HPL No VII 10w30 that I purchased for the Hyundai should finish above 10 also.
The No VII Euro 5w30 that I ran 16k miles ended up thickening over 1.5cSt@100*C, so IMO if you have any UOA on HPL No VII that has a lower ending viscosity than starting viscosity, the problem is not the oil. It’s that your OCI was too short.
I’d much rather have a 30 grade that becomes a 40 grade vs. having a 20 grade that becomes a 12 grade oil.