It takes time to fully charge a battery, no matter how powerful the charging source might be.
Getting a healthy battery from 80% charged to 100% charged takes about 4 hours, when the charging source holds voltages in the mid 14's at 77F. Lesser voltages greatly increase the amount of time required to reach 100%.
When a battery is not regularly returned to 100% charged, it will then require much much longer to reach this true 100%, and no Automatic charging source is going to hold absorption voltages in the mid 14's for long enough to actually achieve a true 100% state of charge, no matter how flowery and persuasive their documentation/ marketing is.
Auto makers really do not care about battery longevity, and battery longevity is determined by how close to 100% charged the battery gets to live.
The anal retentive Bitoger seeking maximum battery life should use external charging sources to get the battery to 100% charged, instead of expecting the alternator and vehicle's voltage regulator to do the job.
As no matter how much the general public loves to think the alternator is some magical instant battery recharger that makes free power, the fact it is does a poor job at returning a depleted battery to a true 100% full, and the battery is not happy other than when it is indeed fully charged.
You can try and charge your current battery to full via a plug in charging source, but the battery's capacity is compromised, it can only hold some fraction of what it could when new.
This cannot be restored. Once heavily sulfated it either stays sulfated, or the sulfates get knocked from the plates collecting on the bottom of the battery opening up surface area for the chemical reaction to tke place, but the with capacity loss with plate material shedded.
In my opinion, Pulse desulfation chargers are ineffective on a sulfated battery. If they worked the guys who deeply cycle batteries on boats would praise them. They do not. Only here on Bitog are they thought to be effective, and only by those that own them, who can't actually test remaining capacity and quantify any improvement there of afterwards.
A forced overcharge at 15.5 to 16 volts( called an equalization charge) is the best way to restore battery capacity back to its maximum remaining potential, but this remaining potential is likely well below the original 'when new' capacity.
And getting the battery to 15.5v+ and holding it there for the required time requires special equipment, and a human to monitor the process to stop the charging if the battery gets too hot. 120F is the maximum, and once battery temp starts rising at these high voltages, it can rise exponentially quickly and things can get ugly.
And there is no guarantee an EQ charge is going to be effective. Most often it is too little, way too late, but the person doing the EQ then has a better idea of how to keep their next battery happier for longer life.
But perhaps not. It is easier to point fingers.