2010 Honda Accord J35Z3 | M1 0W40 | 4430mi

[Popsy]

Quick Napa UOA for that relatively new to me car / Honda J35Z3 / pretty much only moderate speed highway miles

Boring, but what's up with Potassium? Just before that UOA I changed the injectors and all intake gaskets, that brought the fuel trims closer to 0/1% (were closer to 15 before), and surprisingly made for faster warm startup (cold or warm startup were like 2 engine rotations before, now still around 2 when cold and pretty much instant when hot).

 

[fantastic]

It tested negative for glycol (anti-freeze) so you're fine. The (K) should come down or steady & I'd imagine it's from the work you did. Could you link to the exact 0w-40 you used? There's like 3-4 different versions of this oil. Your wear is real low & appears to be in good shape.

 

[Popsy]

Could you link to the exact 0w-40 you used? There's like 3-4 different versions of this oil. Your wear is real low & appears to be in good shape.

Hopefully the K is just a fluke, it's not much but I don't like seeing it.
Exact oil batch is 10220B21A RN6294 230867 - I still have one jug left from that Walmart purchase day

Wear is low, conditions were almost ideal with no short trip, medium temperature and long highway trips. In 6 the engine cruises around 2200rpm on our "highways".

I wish I could say the gearbox is in good condition too, 2nd synchro is almost shot, and the whole thing feels worn out. Unless it's just a crappy gearbox from the start, which wouldn't surprise me.

 

[fantastic]

Hopefully the K is just a fluke, it's not much but I don't like seeing it.
Exact oil batch is 10220B21A RN6294 230867 - I still have one jug left from that Walmart purchase day

Wear is low, conditions were almost ideal with no short trip, medium temperature and long highway trips. In 6 the engine cruises around 2200rpm on our "highways".

I wish I could say the gearbox is in good condition too, 2nd synchro is almost shot, and the whole thing feels worn out. Unless it's just a crappy gearbox from the start, which wouldn't surprise me.

Yeah, it's not real high but that is what is great about these UOA. We can see a potential engine issue that may need to be monitored or addressed above what the oil contamination shows. No matter how many of our fellow BITOG "Influencers" tend to tell us differently. It sounds like this car was purchased used & the transmission wear would depend on who was shifting this beast before if it's a manual. Could be stop/go traffic like my Volvo that started in Austin & ended up in Houston, Texas. That is not ideal driving conditions.

Also, not to hound you about the oil you used but I was wondering if you could point me to a web link that shows which Mobil 0w-40 product you used. I don't know anything about the batch #'s ha ha.

 

[travis8352]

Yeah, it's not real high but that is what is great about these UOA. We can see a potential engine issue that may need to be monitored or addressed above what the oil contamination shows. No matter how many of our fellow BITOG "Influencers" tend to tell us differently. It sounds like this car was purchased used & the transmission wear would depend on who was shifting this beast before if it's a manual. Could be stop/go traffic like my Volvo that started in Austin & ended up in Houston, Texas. That is not ideal driving conditions.

Also, not to hound you about the oil you used but I was wondering if you could point me to a web link that shows which Mobil 0w-40 product you used. I don't know anything about the batch #'s ha ha.

Thats the FS 0w40 API SN formula

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Agree on the likely SN analysis. Latest batch SP.

 

[4WD]

Thats the FS 0w40 API SN formula

Yeah, Lake Speed barked over the high Ca … but can’t find where he came back to any newer formulas …

 

[Al]

Next time let it in for 10K miles+ No reason not to.

 

[Popsy]

It was the SN rated...if I remember correctly that was one batch with quite a low pour point, higher PAO content? Not sure.

I replaced it with the same M1 0W40 but SP rated...I had squirrel-stashed some oil jugs and couldn't find them when it was oil change time so they didn't go in order.
Previous oil was Pennzoil 5W40 euro something.

It sounds like this car was purchased used & the transmission wear would depend on who was shifting this beast before if it's a manual. Could be stop/go traffic like my Volvo that started in Austin & ended up in Houston, Texas. That is not ideal driving conditions.

Correct
It's a 2010 but apparently languished on a dealer lot until 2012 when it was initially bought. I'm the second owner and the first one didn't take great care of it for sure...I had a LOT of cleaning to do, along with the usual all fluids/timing kit/brakes/tires, etc.

 

[Popsy]

Next time let it in for 10K miles+ No reason not to.

It's stored in the winter so I do an October/November yearly change now...agreed it could have stayed longer.

 

[OVERKILL]

This doesn't look right for this oil. Magnesium and Calcium are both "off", and phosphorous/Zinc and moly are all low. Boron seems high.

If you look at @DuckRyder's re-test, these are the more typical values:

 

[Popsy]

Mmm... I think it's too late for me to ask for a retest, but I'll ask.
There's also the possibility that I was wrong on the M1 batch, but it's definitely M1 0W40 that I used.

 

[fantastic]

Mmm... I think it's too late for me to ask for a retest, but I'll ask.
There's also the possibility that I was wrong on the M1 batch, but it's definitely M1 0W40 that I used.

It appears that this COULD be SP since the low phosphorus & zinc OR it was the beginning of the SP being bottled but the bottles weren't updated to SP yet? I wonder if Mobil could tell you based on the batch #'s if it was SP or not. Just thinking out loud now that the discrepancy was noticed.

 

[travis8352]

Its also possible of a lab error as all the additives look low. Zddp and calcium. Magnesium is high for SN m1 0w40. If the label is right the RN6294 is for sure the SN formula. Pour point -60C and it was mostly GTL with PAO and esters used as well.

 

[OVERKILL]

It appears that this COULD be SP since the low phosphorus & zinc OR it was the beginning of the SP being bottled but the bottles weren't updated to SP yet? I wonder if Mobil could tell you based on the batch #'s if it was SP or not. Just thinking out loud now that the discrepancy was noticed.

WAY too much calcium to be SP unless he's got a single quart of SP in there and the rest is SN, but that doesn't explain the boron, phosphorous, or much else really.

 

[OVERKILL]

Its also possible of a lab error as all the additives look low. Zddp and calcium. Magnesium is high for SN m1 0w40. If the label is right the RN6294 is for sure the SN formula. Pour point -60C and it was mostly GTL with PAO and esters used as well.

Yes, I'm leaning toward lab error, given that multiple values are considerably off.

 

[scotty.honda.dog]

I wish I could say the gearbox is in good condition too, 2nd synchro is almost shot, and the whole thing feels worn out. Unless it's just a crappy gearbox from the start, which wouldn't surprise me.

From some experience with the 5 speed AT I think you have, try two drains and refills of the ATF. Some swear by sticking to Honda ATF, others have success with Valvoline Maxlife Multivehicle Synth ATF (red jugs) with a bottle specified dose of Lubeguard Red additive to improve shift quality. I have stuck with the Honda ATF for our vehicle with 265k on the 5 speed AT and it still works ok.

 

[Popsy]

WAY too much calcium to be SP unless he's got a single quart of SP in there and the rest is SN, but that doesn't explain the boron, phosphorous, or much else really.

No I'm 100% positive it all came from the same 4.73L jug.

Yes, I'm leaning toward lab error, given that multiple values are considerably off.

I'm seeing a lot of lab errors lately, what is happening?
Could it be leftovers from Previous Pennzoil 5W40 that wouldn't have been drained properly?

I now remember (sorry I should have remembered before) I replaced the oil filter somewhere mid OCI, and that I refilled that oil filter with either M1 0W40 or possibly Castrol 0W40. If I used some Castrol, that would be what, not even half a liter added?

I'm not sure how to contact ALS Tribology so I used their online form, you can update your report so I asked for a retest and pointed discrepancies.


Another option, I still have the used oil, but in an old windshield washer fluid. Plus it's from the not clean at all oil drain pan :/

From some experience with the 5 speed AT I think you have, try two drains and refills of the ATF. Some swear by sticking to Honda ATF, others have success with Valvoline Maxlife Multivehicle Synth ATF (red jugs) with a bottle specified dose of Lubeguard Red additive to improve shift quality. I have stuck with the Honda ATF for our vehicle with 265k on the 5 speed AT and it still works ok.

I have the 6MT, thankfully. Well thankfully, I'm sure the engine would be more pleasant with an automatic transmission...and I'm sure the car would be more pleasant with a MT that doesn't feel like it's from the 70's.

 

[OVERKILL]

No I'm 100% positive it all came from the same 4.73L jug.

I'm seeing a lot of lab errors lately, what is happening?
Could it be leftovers from Previous Pennzoil 5W40 that wouldn't have been drained properly?

I now remember (sorry I should have remembered before) I replaced the oil filter somewhere mid OCI, and that I refilled that oil filter with either M1 0W40 or possibly Castrol 0W40. If I used some Castrol, that would be what, not even half a liter added?

I'm not sure how to contact ALS Tribology so I used their online form, you can update your report so I asked for a retest and pointed discrepancies.


Another option, I still have the used oil, but in an old windshield washer fluid. Plus it's from the not clean at all oil drain pan :/


I have the 6MT, thankfully. Well thankfully, I'm sure the engine would be more pleasant with an automatic transmission...and I'm sure the car would be more pleasant with a MT that doesn't feel like it's from the 70's.

If you topped up with another full-SAPS Euro oil, the phosphorous level should have remained where it's supposed to be, but it's quite low and boron is quite high. I don't have VOA's handy for the two other oils you mentioned, but unless they have a LOT more boron, that wouldn't explain it.

 

[Popsy]

Here is a VOA of Penzoil Euro 5W40 that was used before:

PP Euro 5w40 SN Plus formulation VOA

Here's another Euro oil 5w40 VOA for y'all who are interested. Brand new bottle with the new PP Euro 5w40 SN Plus formulation.

bobistheoilguy.com

Nothing really makes sense, guess we'll either never know, unless I can get a retest. What also made me wonder was the TBN of 9.4 which sounded really high too.