2010 Accord--Pitted cam lobe pics

@Phishin, mate, have you owned this car since new? In any even, 250k miles is just fine for a gasoline engine, and reading your posts in this thread, it looks like you’ve made the engine work during its lifetime. Coupled with, maybe, engine not being a fully successful design (hence it being dirty, perhaps?) - there is nothing to be disappointed with here. It served you well! Repair if you like, or get a new car: once every 12 years and 250k mi is an appropriate time!
 
All buttoned back up. Runs and sounds great. He says this is probably an oil/lubrication failure from running 10k mile OCI's. It's been cut back to 5K mile OCI's since 170k. She's at 245k now.

$1400 total for parts and labor. He said all the intake valves were tight too, FYI.
 

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All buttoned back up. Runs and sounds great. He says this is probably an oil/lubrication failure from running 10k mile OCI's. It's been cut back to 5K mile OCI's since 170k. She's at 245k now.

$1400 total for parts and labor. He said all the intake valves were tight too, FYI.

Picture of the car, please. And sounds wrong about lubrication being a cause, since only one lobe was affected. OLM is not a Mickey Mouse device
 
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You don’t appear to understand compression and tension. When one surface is compressed, the opposite or surrounding surface is put into tension. When a champagne bottle is shaken and explodes, it is not from the internal pressure per se; the inside surface is under compression. This puts the outside surface under tension, since the inside is pushing outward, and essentially stretches the outside surface. If there is a defect from manufacturing or physical damage (a piece of sandpaper or carbide tip is a great way to induce this damage) on the outer surface, the container will likely fail. But it wasn’t the inside surface under compression that failed, it was the surface under tension that failed.

In the case of the cam lobe, the area under direct contact at a given time is in compression. The area of the lobe just outside of contact is under tension. It is the tension that literally rips pieces of the lobe off and results in spalling. This can either happen from excessive spring pressures exceeding the tensile strength of the lobe, or insufficient spring pressure to control the valve and lifter/follower, and these will then bounce on the cam lobe like a jackhammer.
Sure and someone else doesn't understand compressive strength either.
 
Picture of the car, please. And sounds wrong about lubrication being a cause, since only one lobe was affected. OLM is not a Mickey Mouse device

10 years ago, everyone on here was pushing for 10K mile OCI's and running based on your OLM, especially considering these K24's are easy on oil and I was driving 95% highway miles. There's been lots of problems pop up over this kind of OCI. All my local mechanics are saying 5K mile OCI's with a good synthetic is long enough. I agree.
 

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10 years ago, everyone on here was pushing for 10K mile OCI's and running based on your OLM, especially considering these K24's are easy on oil and I was driving 95% highway miles. There's been lots of problems pop up over this kind of OCI. All my local mechanics are saying 5K mile OCI's with a good synthetic is long enough. I agree.

Car looks good! Did you own it since new?

As to OCI… it’s understood that a 5k oci wont hurt anything, but I’m just generally curious — if twin turbo V8s with 500 hp can have OCIs of 10k, what is it about your 4 cyl (?) engine that destroys oil’s protective and lubricating abilities in just 5k miles? Have you read up anything on this and could you share your findings? Thanks
 
All buttoned back up. Runs and sounds great. He says this is probably an oil/lubrication failure from running 10k mile OCI's. It's been cut back to 5K mile OCI's since 170k. She's at 245k now.

$1400 total for parts and labor. He said all the intake valves were tight too, FYI.
Glad to hear it's all fixed! Awesome, but sad that it happened in the first place. Be interesting to see how it goes with the 5k oci's.
 
Just wanted to give everyone a quick update.....the car is running great. This weekend it took a 350 miles trip to Indianapolis down the highway and I'm very please with how it's running and the lack of valve chatter.

I've got M1 10w30 HM in there now with an older Fram Ultra oil filter. I'll wait until I'm at 3000 miles into this OCI and run a quart of Kreen through it for 1000 miles before doing an oil change.
 
Just wanted to give everyone a quick update.....the car is running great. This weekend it took a 350 miles trip to Indianapolis down the highway and I'm very please with how it's running and the lack of valve chatter.

I've got M1 10w30 HM in there now with an older Fram Ultra oil filter. I'll wait until I'm at 3000 miles into this OCI and run a quart of Kreen through it for 1000 miles before doing an oil change.

Mate, why do you think just oil changes every 5-7.5k miles are not sufficient, why the need for wizardry? Sincere question
 
Mate, why do you think just oil changes every 5-7.5k miles are not sufficient, why the need for wizardry? Sincere question
Not the poster you quoted but some engines and some driving conditions it is not. I used to do 5-6k OCI and around 100k I started getting obvious varnishing. Been doing 3k for the last 121k and now the engine is squeaky clean.

Extending oil changes is literally the definition of a penny smart, a pound foolish. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.
 
What kind of engine and what kind of oil?
1.6l GDI gamma engine, used quaker state, Valvoline, Pennzoil, whatever oil every 5k. It doesn't really matter what oil you use for the most part, especially in modern TGDI/GDI or even MPFI low tension piston ring engines, soot, combustion blow-by, and fuel are bad for your engine, and they make even nastier chemicals when exposed to the extreme heat many modern engines run at, most modern engines run as hot as the material science allows in the name of efficiency.

I'm not saying 5-7k is too much, I'm saying anyone who cares about their car would do well to monitor visually oil quality throughout a change interval and take a peek at the oil fill hole and cap, the filter mounting area, the dipstick, the drain plug or whatever gives you a peek inside the engine, if you see deposits you are going too long.

I change oil on probably 20 cars a week and the people stretching their intervals out are the people who have odd internal ticking/rattling/knocking noises, are always the ones going 7k,10k, or even higher, and there is always very obvious varnishing on the dipstick and under the valve cover, and almost always the new oil instantly blackens from all the accumulated filth in the engine upon the first start. These are also the people who are burning 1,2,3 quarts plus of oil every interval, and I've even seen some engines seize from a combination of deposits and consumption. Even if they stay on top of topping up the oil eventually they start having catalytic converter failures, oil control valve failure, cam timing codes, and oil leaks from hardened seals.

The best oil is clean oil.
 
sounds wrong about lubrication being a cause, since only one lobe was affected. OLM is not a Mickey Mouse device
1) Viscosity is the primary aspect of an engine oil's protection against metal to metal contact.
2) Viscosity can be lowered by oil choice, time in service, fuel dilution and various forms of contamination.
3) Particulate contamination increases over time and some particulates can exceed the oil film thickness.
4) Manufacturers absolutely do not provide the ideal maintenance suggestions. This is why there is a rash of GM, Ford, BMW, Jaguar, Hyundai/Kia timing chain failures now, along with Ford and Dodge roller tappets, roller followers, and in some Hyundai/Kia/BMW/Jaguar engines rod bearings. (NOTE: some manufacturers do provide a "severe service" schedule and many owners ignore this, short trips may fall in the severe service schedule)

As an example, 3.5L Ecoboost direct injection engines are known for modest fuel dilution. By 4000 miles, many operators will have oil that contains raw gasoline and the evaporated by-products of a great many gallons of gasoline, along with a fairly high particulate load. This is why I suggest 5000 mile OCI's and slightly higher viscosity for 3.5L EB engines. If we go to 10K mile OCI's, the contaminated oil is circulating for many thousands of miles. Guess which operators end up performing a timing chain replacement job at under 100K miles?

It is as it has always been. Those who choose a quality synthetic of adequate viscosity and change it frequently have no oil related failures. Those who do not have a variety of results from excellent to terrible. Remember, the oil change is the only way to remove certain contaminates from the oil. One need only look at YouTube videos of 3.5L timing chain jobs to see varnished up engines that followed the Oil Life Monitor properly.
 
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Just wanted to give everyone a quick update.....the car is running great. This weekend it took a 350 miles trip to Indianapolis down the highway and I'm very please with how it's running and the lack of valve chatter.

I've got M1 10w30 HM in there now with an older Fram Ultra oil filter. I'll wait until I'm at 3000 miles into this OCI and run a quart of Kreen through it for 1000 miles before doing an oil change.
Wait, so, the car just had what you believe is an oil related failure (I disagree, but more on that in a minute) so your new plan is to dilute the oil with solvent?

Why? How will this help anything?

Your mechanic believes it’s an oil problem without any evidence (like adjacent cams failing in the same way, or a test of the oil viscosity after the failure) based solely on your oil change interval. That’s misplaced at best.

Now, my 500+ HP twin turbo V-12 runs 10,000 mile intervals with zero issues. Your contention, then, is that the little Honda 4 banger is harder on oil than my V-12? Seems misplaced as well.
 
2018 Ford 3.5L Ecoboost, 10,000 mile OCI's, 69,000 miles. Apart for chain and phaser replacement. And now cams and followers.

[sarc] I wonder why my 3.5L EB looks perfect at 150K miles and this one does not?????[sarc]

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2018 Ford 3.5L Ecoboost, 10,000 mile OCI's, 69,000 miles. Apart for chain and phaser replacement. And now cams and followers.

[sarc] I wonder why my 3.5L EB looks perfect at 150K miles and this one does not?????[sarc]

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This looks like a clean engine to me. Does Ford have an OLM, a fixed 10k mi oci or fixed 10k + severe schedule?

A wear like that at 69k looks a design flaw. How long has Ford been making this engine? In any event, this is not terribly surprising as American cars have for a long time been, usually, under-designed and under-built, and meant to be disposed off after several years.

From a personal experience, my wife’s ex-car, an 18’ JL Wrangler with 3.6L engine that Chrysler has been making for years at that point had a “lifter or a rocket arm” - I forgot, but something physically broke in the valvetrain - at 20 or 30 thousand miles. I recall being shocked that it could happen on years-in-production mass produced, main workhorse engine well into 21 century. First and last American car for my family that Jeep was. Is 3.5L “eco boost” engine same mass produced, main workhorse for Ford, that’s been in production for years? 🤷‍♂️
 
2) Viscosity can be lowered by oil choice, time in service, fuel dilution and various forms of contamination.
3) Particulate contamination increases over time and some particulates can exceed the oil film thickness.
As an example, 3.5L Ecoboost direct injection engines are known for modest fuel dilution. By 4000 miles, many operators will have oil that contains raw gasoline and the evaporated by-products of a great many gallons of gasoline, along with a fairly high particulate load.

This is all good, but what makes you think oil developers don’t know about all that and that modern, proper-for-application oil can’t deal with those things over 250-300 engine hours/7,500-10,000 miles? Most recent cars have active OLMs that take into account all sorts of parameters…
 
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