2009 Camry 2AZ-FE with 90k miles was flushed with green coolant

[johnmyster]

Toyota pink is actually a phosphate enhanced hybrid oat coolant.

I thought TPink involved sebecate, which was the special ingredient that makes it different from other non-2EHA OATs.

In any case, I'd drain the system, break coolant hoses where I can, and use compressed air to remove as much mystery coolant as I could. Optionally, I'd do a flush cycle with water and prestone citric acid solution. I'd refill with Toyota pink or Peak Final Charge Pro...my new favorite long life OAT (which happens to be phosphated and available just about everywhere as concentrate or 50/50.)

The problem with Toyota Pink is it's really only available as 50/50 mix. So if you water flush the system, and you can't get all the water out, you'll always be below 50/50 mix...which may not be a big deal...but maintenance drain and fills will get you back towards that goal over time. I'm a big fan of water flushes, but when going back with 50/50 you are guessing and don't have much recourse if you test the system with your $4 hygrometer and don't like where you ended up.

I know the drain petcock on the rear cylinder bank of our 2GR-FE got nearly all of the coolant out of the block, after draining from the radiator.

 

[johnmyster]

It can work okay when a blender keeps everything balanced, when done in a less controlled fashion the results can be disastrous.

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Thread 'The US Army's Search for a Universal Extended Life Coolant Specification'

May 14, 2023

I recently stumbled across some very interesting coolant research that directly pertains to some of the discussions that have been taking place here recently, I've attempted to summarize it:

Currently the US Army is using conventional green Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) coolant with Supplemental Coolant Additive (SCA) and changing it annually instead of testing and recharging it. This is obviously quite expensive and wasteful, so they decided to look at moving to an Extended Life Coolant (ELC) that would be suitable for all the numerous different vehicles the Army fields.

They started...

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• Replies: 28
• Forum: Cooling System Fluids & Additives

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Ultimately, the army's test seemed mostly concerned with cross compatibility (including things like seawater) and less of an emphasis on long term corrosion resistance, sludge formation, etc.

For detail oriented home mechanics (such as BITOGers) that can be bothered to keep a bottle or two of specialty coolant in the garage, or shop for what we need prior to doing maintenance/repairs, coolant/seawater cross compatibility is perhaps less of a concern.

 

[nthach]

I thought TPink involved sebecate, which was the special ingredient that makes it different from other non-2EHA OATs.

In any case, I'd drain the system, break coolant hoses where I can, and use compressed air to remove as much mystery coolant as I could. Optionally, I'd do a flush cycle with water and prestone citric acid solution. I'd refill with Toyota pink or Peak Final Charge Pro...my new favorite long life OAT (which happens to be phosphated and available just about everywhere as concentrate or 50/50.)

The problem with Toyota Pink is it's really only available as 50/50 mix. So if you water flush the system, and you can't get all the water out, you'll always be below 50/50 mix...which may not be a big deal...but maintenance drain and fills will get you back towards that goal over time. I'm a big fan of water flushes, but when going back with 50/50 you are guessing and don't have much recourse if you test the system with your $4 hygrometer and don't like where you ended up.

I know the drain petcock on the rear cylinder bank of our 2GR-FE got nearly all of the coolant out of the block, after draining from the radiator.

And pink crust was common on Toyotas when they switched to pink from red. While 2-EHA has proven to be aggressive on silicone and nylon, I think if the gaskets and sealant was designed for Dex-Cool, 2-EHA isn’t as bad as it seems. FKM is best to seal with carboxylic acids(like sebacic/benzoic acids and their salts and 2-EHA), but GM/Ford and the Germans are using a new breed of silicone RTVs that can handle them.

 

[johnmyster]

And pink crust was common on Toyotas when they switched to pink from red. While 2-EHA has proven to be aggressive on silicone and nylon, I think if the gaskets and sealant was designed for Dex-Cool, 2-EHA isn’t as bad as it seems. FKM is best to seal with carboxylic acids(like sebacic/benzoic acids and their salts and 2-EHA), but GM/Ford and the Germans are using a new breed of silicone RTVs that can handle them.

Agreed, I never had issue with dexcool but I don't ask my coolants to go longer than 5 years. It's a small price to pay for the DIYer.

Upside of the pink crust is that you'll visibly know when an OE 2GR water pump has let go.

I just figure if the toyota came with pink and I'm not flushing, I'll stick with the stuff. No need to add 2EHA to a system that has never seen it. Even at dealer ripoff price ($35 a gallon for t-pink premix) vs using aftermarket (peak asian pink on sale), a full drain and fill costs me $40 more on what, a 5-year interval? If I am thoroughly flushing, Peak Final Charge Pro. I get why auto shops use universal, but none of my cars will ever see AMAM nonsense.

 

[iCurious]

Just wait for the 20% sale. I bought 3 gallons of it for $63.

 

[CapitalTruck]

Agreed, I never had issue with dexcool but I don't ask my coolants to go longer than 5 years. It's a small price to pay for the DIYer.

Upside of the pink crust is that you'll visibly know when an OE 2GR water pump has let go.

I just figure if the toyota came with pink and I'm not flushing, I'll stick with the stuff. No need to add 2EHA to a system that has never seen it. Even at dealer ripoff price ($35 a gallon for t-pink premix) vs using aftermarket (peak asian pink on sale), a full drain and fill costs me $40 more on what, a 5-year interval? If I am thoroughly flushing, Peak Final Charge Pro. I get why auto shops use universal, but none of my cars will ever see AMAM nonsense.

Well, the stated Dex-Cool interval in every GM car I've ever had is actually five years (unless you manage to get 150k in before that), so you're doing it on schedule.

 

[nthach]

If I am thoroughly flushing, Peak Final Charge Pro. I get why auto shops use universal, but none of my cars will ever see AMAM nonsense.

well, the current Prestone Cor-Guard formulation since 2014 is a pHOAT AMAM. I’m running it with no issues in a Toyota. And it does meet Toyota’s specs for a coolant. I’m running Final Charge in another car. I’m probably going to standardize on Final Charge but use Zerex Red/Peak OET pink or OE Toyota for the inverter coolant loop.

Subaru is using Prestone as their current coolant provider if you buy their labeled coolant. It has 2-EHA on the label.