2009 Buick LaCrosse control arm bushings are shot, need advice.

R18Civic

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I have a 2009 Buick LaCrosse and I have learned that my control arm bushings are shot. I just picked up a set for $45 but I'm finding out most people decide to replace the control arm before they replace the bushings. I'm assuming that means it's a PITA to do.

The front lower bushing looks simple enough to remove, but the rear one looks to be a real pain.

I was wondering if anyone had step by step information how how to replace the front-rear bushing on a W Body GM control arm. What tools I would need, etc.

Trav don't fail me now.
 
With the right tools and assorted extra's I'm sure it is a easy job. If all you have is a vise, hammer and sockets gunna be more difficult. How much is a complete control arm??? Have you priced Rock Auto?
 
With the right tools and assorted extra's I'm sure it is a easy job. If all you have is a vise, hammer and sockets gunna be more difficult. How much is a complete control arm??? Have you priced Rock Auto?
For a decent brand like Moog is $55 for one control arm and I'm on a budget. I've seen videos with using ball joint press kit to remove the pressed in bushing, does that sound like it will work on this vehicle?
 
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You may be able to use a ball joint press if you have the right size receiving and press cups, you can always cobble something together but it may be easier to just give it to a shop to do the press work for you. You have to be careful to get the orientation of the cut outs of the big bushing correct in the arm, mark them before removing.
 
I went through this on a Chevy HHR and you're right, it's a hassle.

I'd get a generic branded lower control arm if I didn't already have a press. I suspect there's one factory that makes a bunch of LCAs for different vendors.

Do you even know if you'll get your old ball joints out without tearing the boots?

The only good thing about rebuilding your original parts is that it's more likely you won't need an alignment.
 
Do you even know if you'll get your old ball joints out without tearing the boots?

A lot of penetrating oil and a big hammer to beat the knuckle with.

EDIT: I should add I'm rebuilding both front Calipers while I'm down there so this may turn into a multi day event depending on how stubborn the bushings are.
 
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Another quick question, how do I plug the rubber brake line once I get the caliper off so I don't lose a tremendous amount of fluid?
 
I have a 2009 Buick LaCrosse and I have learned that my control arm bushings are shot. I just picked up a set for $45 but I'm finding out most people decide to replace the control arm before they replace the bushings. I'm assuming that means it's a PITA to do.

The front lower bushing looks simple enough to remove, but the rear one looks to be a real pain.

I was wondering if anyone had step by step information how how to replace the front-rear bushing on a W Body GM control arm. What tools I would need, etc.

Trav don't fail me now.
Not Trav but I worked at AAP for years you can ‘rent’ with full refund on return the tool to press ball joints it will press bushings into control arms, buy good bushings lube them carefully and press slowly until fully seated
 
Hang the calliper up by coat hanger, unbox new calliper, now you have to hang the old inside level with master cylinder, attach new calliper, lower in place and mount, fill brake fluid to max, put can under new calliper and open bleed slowly, Watch dirty fluid drain and keep topping up, you will need to bleed brakes, do the final with motor running.
 
Another quick question, how do I plug the rubber brake line once I get the caliper off so I don't lose a tremendous amount of fluid?
 
You may be able to use a ball joint press if you have the right size receiving and press cups, you can always cobble something together but it may be easier to just give it to a shop to do the press work for you. You have to be careful to get the orientation of the cut outs of the big bushing correct in the arm, mark them before removing.
I'm using after market moog two piece bushings, is that still important? And BTW, the problem with the tranmission was the forward apply band.
 
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Welp looks like I wasted money on bushings. The fronts were shot but they are heavily rusted in place and several, several blows from a mini sledge would not dislodge them. Not even a tiny bit. Looks like I'm buying new control arms and away bar end links.
 
That is common in the rust belt. Bushing replacement is okay down south or in CA but here the arms are more commonly totally buggered. Use OE arms, they cost more money but it can be considerably less than the fiasco (I mean a real fiasco you wish you never got into) can cost with aftermarket.
 
That is common in the rust belt. Bushing replacement is okay down south or in CA but here the arms are more commonly totally buggered. Use OE arms, they cost more money but it can be considerably less than the fiasco (I mean a real fiasco you wish you never got into) can cost with aftermarket.

Unfortunately I already ordered moog. They've got good reviews from automotive sites and customers alike.

And quick question. I seem to have found some info online saying to torque the bushing bolts down with the wheels on the ground which I did not do. However the bolt and nut do not contact the metal sleeve (insert) on either bushing. They contact the subframe. Am I good or do I need to loosen the nuts and retorque?
 
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