2008 WRX... unknown service history

Joined
Sep 7, 2011
Messages
77
Location
CA
2008 WRX ~139,000 miles turbocharged 2.5 L H4 (EJ255 I believe). Unknown service history, probably ok to say it has been neglected. Just performed an oil change on it with a little less than 5 Qt of Kirkland 5W-30 synthetic and a WIX 57712XP. Previous oil change was done by myself, probably with Pennzoil Platinum and the same 57712XP filter a few years ago and around 11,500 miles ago. ~3 months ago engine was run low on oil and ~2.5 Qt was added to get it ~0.5 Qt past the full mark.

Pulled plugs 1 and 3 on the passenger side to check them out and look down the cylinders. They look to be the correct NGK plugs for this vehicle but are quite a bit crustier than I am used to seeing. Any guesses as to how many miles they've been used? I'm guessing it's probably a good time to change them or are they still good to go? Gaps measured ok.

This is not my car, just do work on it sometimes when things break.

1.webp


2.webp


3.webp


4.webp
 
Yours look mostly normal https://www.championautoparts.com/P...-and-maintenance/how-to-read-spark-plugs.html

If you have no service history:
Replace the timing belt and water pump with quality Aisin parts.
Fix all oil leaks, you probably have a few.
Replace the radiator, thermostat and hoses, they are end of life.
Inspect the suspension, do the necessary tasks.

Nice car, you are lucky to see one that runs at that mileage. Have a good time.
 
I’d ditch the WIX XP faster than trying to mule some coke past a TSA dog. They’re built well but are rock catchers at best. Even the NAPA 7712, teacup that it is, would be preferable IMO, but the 7055 and 3593A filters fit as well and are perfect for 5k OCI.

I’d personally never use Kirkland in a boosted EJ, but that’s me; M1 FS 0w40 would be my shelf pick.

Plugs are fine but definitely have some mileage; my 3.5EB plugs at 75k didn’t have that rusty appearance. Check out the coolant mod for cylinder 4; this should help prevent the hot spot and accompanying doom that can happen on the EJ255 and EJ257 when pushed really hard.

Like Barkey said, talk them into a good timing belt & water pump kit, new thermostat & hoses, and flush the rad really well. New radiator cap and make sure it’s at least 1.3 bar if not the STI higher pressure cap.

Push them to stick to 5k; EJs can certainly be reliable enough (mine is going to pass 200k this week on original ‘07 head gaskets) but they require a little more frequent attention.

You should do a turkey baster D&F on the power steering with MaxLife ATF as well, since you’re a nice guy and all to whoever owns this car. 👍🏻
 
Update on the WRX, car was having performance problems; owner said car was running poorly with low power and dying at stops. Did some inspecting and found a leaking intake hose at the intercooler outlet after pressurizing the intake and spraying with soapy water. Found the intake hose and the intercooler inlet gasket was poorly installed by the previous owner so ordered up some new replacements. Installed the new parts today but the intercooler inlet is not lining up with the compressor outlet. Everything I'm seeing looks like the turbo and its exhaust piping is not positioned correctly, like it is all shifted away from the engine centerline. If I break loose all the turbo hardware for the exhaust piping and mounting will there be enough wiggle room to get everything shifted closer to the engine centerline by about a quarter inch?

bubbles at intercooler outlet
3.webp



source of leak
4.webp

5.webp


o-ring was upside down
6.webp



new part doesn't fully seat on throttle body
7.webp


intercooler end is ok
8.webp


compressor outlet doesn't line up
9.webp



and this is what makes me believe the turbo and exhaust isn't positioned correctly, support bracket on cat after the turbo was missing its bolt and is approximately 1/4 inch to 3/8's away from where it should be bolted down to the side of the transmission.
10.webp

11.webp
 
And an additional note, I can get everything bolted together if I put pressure on the intercooler to shift it over since the hose connecting the intercooler and throttle body is rubber but it feels like the force needed to do this is excessive, I don't feel comfortable leaving it like that. I think this might also explain why the previous hose was not installed correctly (witness marks from old worm clamp on old hose end support this theory)

All previous suggestions are good ones but they'll have to wait until I can be sure this thing is fixed and running correctly.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom