'08 Volvo XC70 D5 AWD

Well the Volvo is still marching on, now showing 153k.

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I've not been totally enamoured with how the Volvo handles in the twisties. I've owned various cars based on the same platform that were renown for good handling, and that had been my experience. Truthfully, the suspension was woolly at best and often didn't inspire confidence. On some bumpy back roads you had to put the suspension in 'Advanced' mode or the thing felt like a wallowy mess. I assumed the wibbly wobbly back end was tired shocks, but the adaptive dampers for this car cost well over £1000 for a set.

In March we took the car up to North Wales for a short holiday and the rear end started knocking far worse than it had been which prompted me to take a much closer look at it than I otherwise had done. A few minutes with a suitable lever and the car jacked up made it clear that nearly all the bushes up back were far past their best. I was kind of glad to find this out considering the price of the dampers. Interestingly, the knocking only existed when the car was heavily loaded, as it was when we travelled up to North Wales.

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I purchased all new arms for the back end, and there they've sat, since March, just collecting dust in the garage while my life did it's thing and took me on various impromptu trips, unwanted adventures and unkindly made plans for me. Like having my Mothers clutch to change earlier last month.

The cars annual inspection was due to expire this coming Monday and I quickly realised that time was up. I had to man-up and book the car into a garage. I decided to play it safe and book it into a highly recommended local Volvo specialists. She may be an old girl, but she's a complicated beast and there's a few things make even the most modern car look simple.

I supplied Delphi branded radius arms and link arms, Lemforder fixings and Febi Bilstein lower arms (as Delphi wasn't available) for the back end. I also gave them the refurbished front N/S hub, wishbone and droplink to replace also. And I told them to do the annual inspection while they were at it, which the car passed with flying colours.

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Unfortunately, when I got home I looked at the car and noticed it's rear end was sitting rather low.

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The garage were friendly, got me and the car in quick and efficiently and the price was reasonable. But when investigating this new found stance, I came to realise the lower arms ordered from Autodoc, despite being listed against the OEM part number, were Volvo V70 items. Now, while I admit I supplied the parts, I'm disappointed the garage just fitted them and didn't notice the difference. Or if they did notice, why didn't they say anything? They're the specialists after all? Am I being unreasonable? The correct arms are totally flat, where the V70 arms have a distinct curve to them. Pretty obvious when you look at them side by side.

I found out the original arms aren't available on the aftermarket and only through Volvo. However, bushes are available for them. So I quickly phoned the garage up to ask if they still had the old arms, but their skip had just been collected. Que, £310 from our local dealer for new arms. And annoyingly, where the old arms were cast aluminium (including the wrong replacements from Autodoc), the revised items from Volvo are now stamped steel and don't look anywhere near as cool.

The new 'wrong' arms...

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One side swapped...

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Two things to note, no grease used on the part of the bolt that goes through the bush. I always assumed a light application of something like copper grease on the part of the bolt that usually seizes into the bush was good practice? I used some Lanogaurd grease, well... a lot of it...

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And the second thing to note, on the O/S inner bush, despite having all new fixing hardware, they've used an old washer. Minor, I know. But seemed a little sloppy as they've obviously lost one. Pretty obvious in the next photo too.

Anyway, new arms fitted...

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V70 arms vs XC70 arms...

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And back at the correct height...

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And this is why I work on my cars myself. Gahhhhh!
 
So soon after spending a small fortune replacing so much of the suspension of the Volvo, my Wife decided she wanted a VW T5 which we purchased and thus started my other BITOG diary. Understandably, the Volvo hasn't moved much over the last month or so, I did put it up for a sale for a little bit but had little interest. I tend to be overly honest in my ads, but I've been disappointed on many occasions so I don't like to do that to others.

My Fathers been using the Defender for the last few years as his sole car. He retired and while he still does freelance work for a few days a week, driving around in a nice shiny new car is no longer a priority for him. I also find having the Defender being used regularly means it's actually been a lot more reliable and generally better for it. However, the Defender is cold and wet in the winter. It takes a long time for the big 300TDi to get up to temperature and even when it does, the heaters are like like having someone else breath on you while you're in a cold shower. So, while I decide what to do with it, I've offered it to my Dad to use for the winter months as it'll be comfier, quieter, warmer and probably more frugal for him.

Since we've owned the car, and I've mentioned on here several times before, we have an 'Engine Service System Required' message when you initially start the car. When I bought the car my basic OBDII scanner showed a code stored for glow plugs, but after changing the glow plugs the messaged remained. I bought a generic J2534 and read the codes with VDASH. The code stored was "ECM-P193596 - Brake Sensor/Switch Signal". The car has two brake sensors, both of which are very cheap so I decided to replace both.

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Old & New (I broke the blue & white switch on removal)

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But still, the code remained.

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I started doing a little research and looking at wiring diagrams and doing some googling. Both brake switches report to the CEM, not the ECU. One sensor is a basic on/off used as a 'backup' and the other is a position sensor. The CEM then tells the ECU via it's own individual cable. Both signals are tested on start-up for obvious reasons. After finding this out I went back to VDASH and had a look at some live data. I noted that the CEM was reporting both switches working as expected, but the ECU wasn't reporting anything. Suddenly, I realised this was a wiring issue.

I looked through the wiring diagram and came across only two individual cables that weren't CAN or LIN and went directly from the CEM to the ECU.

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I quickly did a continuity test from pins C37 on the CEM to B48 on the ECU and found it open RESULT! I also checked C1:44 on the CEM to B:38 and it was closed as expected.

This was in May and I walked off and never touched the car again. :ROFLMAO:

With the impending hand-over of the Volvo to my Dad for the winter months, I decided to get the issue fixed so he can have working cruise control.

I went out on my lunch today and started picking apart the loom. The plan was to test from one end of the cable, and use a piercing probe on the cable in sections to track down where the break is, often called the 'half-split' method. For example, you test from end A to the middle of the cable and from end B to the middle of the cable with a continuity tester. That should tell you in which half of the cable the fault lies. If for instance you find from end B to the mid point is open circuit, you then go roughly half way within that open section and do the same and carry on until the fault is found.

Right at the front of the engine bay there is a section of loom that goes off in 3 different directions that is easily accessed. I stripped the loom back here as a place to start.

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And while fishing through the loom for the correct violet cable with a brown stripe, it simply pulled out of the loom. :ROFLMAO:

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The cable had obviously been rubbing up against something for a long time and finally rubbed through.

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I laid out the broken cable on the loom which gave me an idea of where the brake was. It seemed to be sitting next to the battery box. I whipped that out and found this.

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And you can see here on the side of the battery box where it's been rubbing.

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I've pulled the cable back through the loom to the correct spot.

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I'm in the office tomorrow, so it'll probably be Wednesday now before I have chance to do the repair and put the car back together. But I'm happy I finally found this!

It would be nice to get a new AC compressor on it before winter also, but don't know if I'll have the time.
 
Finally have the message off the dash and working cruise control! 🥳

There was a total of 3 cables all damaged by the rubbing against the battery box.

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These were all repaired with glue lined heat shrink insulated crimps.

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I'm ashamed to say, despite being an electrician, I only seemed to have every colour of tape available that wasn't black. Blue it is!

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And no more brake sensor code!

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And now have a cruise control light! :cool:

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Next I need to work out if just the A/C clutch is seized up or if it's the compressor itself.
 
So the A/C hasn't worked since I bought the Volvo. The belt was removed and the compressor was graunchy to spin. I did notice however, there was at least half a turn in either direction when you span just the clutch that was smooth.

I've had a new clutch assembly sat here for a little while. And today I decided to go take a look.

I dropped the compressor down.

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One destroyed bearing.

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Off the clutch came.

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New clutch from a company I've never heard of (what could possibly go wrong?)

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Clutch on.

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New stretch belt in.

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And would you have it... ICE COLD A/C :cool:

For all of 3 minutes before the new coil shorted out and destroyed itself.

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Arghghghghgghghgfhfhfghgghfgfhghgfgffh. Argh!

I'm starting a new job in a month and the likelihood is I'm going to have to use the Volvo for a little while. It would be nice to have working A/C. I'll send this clutch unit back and get one of a brand I've heard of I guess.
 
Just dismantled the clutch in the dark and think this may have been my fault.

The inner circlip that holds the magnet onto the compressor was mashed when the bearing let go on the old clutch and was thrown into the bearing itself. I didn't actually find it until I took apart the old clutch this evening and didn't recognise it at first as a circlip. So I only ran with the second circlip that holds on the pulley.

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I think there was enough play in the assembly without this first circlip for the coil to spin with the pulley causing it to short out on the compressor case.

There's a fair bit of damage to the back of the coil where it came loose. But I think it's salvageable.

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I did a quick resistance check across the coil and got 3.4ohms. So no internal short at least.

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There's a little bit of damage on the compressor itself too where the short happened.

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Also, these were the shims that sat between the pulley and the clutch. I just refitted them as they came out. I didn't know you're supposed to shim the clutch to around 0.2mm from the pulley.

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Teach me to just dive into things without doing research!

I'll try again today to fit all this. Plan is as follows...

- Sand down the damage on the compressor.
- Fix damage on coil feed cable where it's shorted out.
- Install coil with circlip.
- Check resistance between coil and compressor housing to ensure no short.
- Install pulley.
- Install compressor clutch and check air gap. Shim as required.
- Install compressor and stretch belt.
 
Nice job on this and the Duster thread I enjoy reading them.

This is the first time I have seen the coil held on with a snap-ring. They are normally a press fit.
 
So I tired again with a little more understanding. I also bought another clutch from a slightly better brand.

This time, with the new clutch being freshly zinc plated steel, the issue became more apparent.

I realised the reason for the loose fit what that the centre shaft out of AC compressor was far too small.

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And looking again to the right of the groove where the circlip sits, you will see the shaft has been totally worn away.

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This was the original clutch electromagnet I removed, totally destroyed!

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So, here's my theory. When the bearing went in the compressor clutch, it 'grabbed' onto the electromagnet and spun it. As the electromagnet has spun it has worn the centre shaft of the AC compressor. Ah well, looks like I need to replace the compressor. Annoying as it's fully operational and was providing ice cold air. But such is life! Brand new compressors start from ~£250, plus I'll need to have the system evacuated and regassed.

Also annoying, the auxillary belt tensioner broke when I was popping the belt back on. Looks like I've had the belt on and off a few too many times.

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I also decided to quickly swap out the oil. It's been around a year and 6,628miles since the last OCI.

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Oil out.

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Filter out. Checked between the pleats, nothing at all found despite using Mobil 1 0w40 last time, so well happy!

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Filter cap cleaned and new FEBI filter installed.

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Shiny new Gold Plug fitted! I love these, just annoying they're 1", and I live in Europe, where inches are insane to most people.

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And 6.5 litres of some of my favourite oil installed.

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So I'm not going to touch the car now until Spring. The Volvo is going to be used on and off by my Wife while I do jobs on her van. Then next month I start a new job and may need the XC70 for a little while until my company car is sorted and then I think my Dad wants to use it over the Winter months as it's warmer, dryer and generally more comfortable than the Defender which he has been using. :ROFLMAO:

Come spring, I think I'll get the wheels finally refurbished and a new set of all season tyres. I'll get a new compressor and auxiliary belt tensioner and get that finally fixed. Then I'll do another drain and fill on the gearbox along with a fresh treatment of Lubegaurd Red (love that stuff). And I also need to think about manning up and getting the bevel gear, rear diff and Haldex unit finally serviced.

I'm in a weird situation where the car is worth ~£3,000 and Volvo's don't really go up in value. But this continues being a solid and reliable workhorse and therefore is worth a lot more than £3,000 to me. I don't need it any more, but I can't justify selling it either.
 
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