I wouldn't say that I am doing it the "right way," but I am doing slightly more than the bare minimum.
I briefly researched the idea of un-tensioning the chain and removing the cam in-car, but it seems to be too difficult.
2008 Toyota Camry V6 P0303
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
I briefly researched the idea of un-tensioning the chain and removing the cam in-car, but it seems to be too difficult.
I would not be surprised people would just patch it up and then trade it in. In theory when it is a known problem most non car guys would not know about it and just blame it on it being old. Replacing all that may not get you much more in financial term.
Wow.....thats lucky...I have never seen that, without the valve head broke off and cylinder destroyed. That owner better buy a lotto ticket!!
Can you borescope that cylinder and see if it even lightly kissed the piston?
Here is a question I have for the group:
What is the likelihood that I have a bent valve from this incident?
For these reasons, I think it is fine:
1) If the valve dropped down far enough to be bent, the engine would have been toast.
2) If the valve was bent and not sealing properly, I would have seen more than 5% leakdown on this cylinder.
Thoughts?
What is the likelihood that I have a bent valve from this incident?
For these reasons, I think it is fine:
1) If the valve dropped down far enough to be bent, the engine would have been toast.
2) If the valve was bent and not sealing properly, I would have seen more than 5% leakdown on this cylinder.
Thoughts?
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I think your reasoning is sound.
I trust leakdown percentage for the most part.
You can rotate the valve in 90 degree increments & recheck leakdown with the piston at TDC. This will confirm Valve & Valve seat are concentric to each other.
You can rotate the valve in 90 degree increments & recheck leakdown with the piston at TDC. This will confirm Valve & Valve seat are concentric to each other.
Bent valve your leakage is gonna be more than 30%. Also your relative compression test will not be uniform.
Removed the engine and trans tonight. It was my first time doing a 2GR-FE and it took me about 4 hours. The most difficult parts of the job were disassembling the fuse box and finding a way to make the undersized HF hydraulic table work.
Top end disassembled:
And it is out:
Top end disassembled:
And it is out:
Yes - that is the plan for tonight.
Good thing you kept on playing detective instead of ignoring it!
After removing the camshaft housing and the camshaft(s), the cyl#3 intake valve (in question) did not move…not even with a lot of pressure. It was jammed shut.
So I removed the cyl head and lightly tapped out the valve with a hammer.
Yes, it is bent…
However, I do not see any signs of piston-to-valve contact. The plan is to have my machine shop install all new valve springs on the bank 1 head, install a new cyl 3 intake valve and inspect the guides for damage.
Here is the current state of the engine:
So I removed the cyl head and lightly tapped out the valve with a hammer.
Yes, it is bent…
However, I do not see any signs of piston-to-valve contact. The plan is to have my machine shop install all new valve springs on the bank 1 head, install a new cyl 3 intake valve and inspect the guides for damage.
Here is the current state of the engine:
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So they (Toyota) still can't get this right. This apparently is happening to a few 3.5L 2GR Tacoma's. Mostly low mileage, but some right after warranty (of course). Not a widespread issue, but known.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yup, exactly!
That valve being stuck closed makes me wonder how long it has been driving around like that. I'd have the valve guide replaced after having a valve come out like that and I'd also go over all the surrounding parts with a fine tooth comb looking for any additional damage from that failure. If that engine happens to have an oil cooler and/or rear VVT-i with rubber lines the rubber lines should be replaced with the upgraded all metal lines. Good job so far!
Wow thats crazy, that it stuck shut, and sealed.....have never saw that happen. Nice shop!! And meticulous too.
After removing the head, it was discovered the bent valve had cracked the valve guide. A piece of the valve guide nicked the combustion chamber but the nick appears to be at the border of the top ring. The nick does not have anything that “stands proud,” so I think I will move forward with reassembly.
The machine shop cleaned the head and installed new valve springs, new seals and one new guide. Supposedly all of the valves seal properly so a valve job was not not needed. No resurface was done due to concern of timing issues.
For bank 2, I replaced the valve springs myself. It wasn’t fun.
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The Powertrain is ready to go back inside the car.
New serp belt tensioner, 24 new valve springs, new lower control arms, new passenger side engine mount, all new gaskets, both cam housings and timing cover resealed.
Also, this was my first time doing a 2gr timing cover reseal. Toyota expects you to lay the rtv bead, torque all timing cover fasteners, install the w/p, install the water outlet and install the side mount bracket in under 15 mins. It is pretty much impossible unless you have done hundreds.
I was able to get the timing cover rtv’ed, installed and torqued within 20 minutes so hopefully it doesn’t leak. We will see. Also, special thanks to @nthach for donating the 1282b rtv for the coolant passage sections of the timing cover.
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