I wasn’t going to let $70/tube special RTV go to waste.
2008 Toyota Camry V6 P0303
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
For some strange reason, the dispenser tip that comes with the 1207 tubes did not work on your tube. So I had to dispense the 1282b without…which meant using a lot more rtv than I was hoping to. Luckily this only seals the water passage.
Video of the engine running:
Got the powertrain reinstalled, upper and lower oil pans reinstalled and all fluid levels corrected. Installing the powertrain without the passenger side mount present was a bit tricky…the engine kept wanting to rest against the chassis. So I used a block of wood and a metal sleeve to gently lift the engine a hair....while simultaneously lowering the vehicle onto the subframe.
During initial startup, the engine had an unusual tick/knock for the first 10 minutes (while idling) but the noise has completely varnished. The noise was similar to @Barkleymut's video, but at a much lower volume. Not sure why…any ideas?
Since then, I have driven 150 miles. No obvious issues or faults to report. A/C recharge has been done. Alignment will be done this week. All monitors including EVAP are complete.
Last edited:
Could be the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters working all the air out??, Not that I'm all that familiar with this engine. Hemi's take forever to work air out of the Lifters....Some just will not 'til you raise engine RPM.
Had a minor issue appear after ~250 miles of driving.
There is a small leak from the timing chain tensioner access cover.
Upon further review, it appears that I had installed the cover inside/out. Both the tabs and the bulge are supposed to face outward, not inward.
Reversing the direction of the plate was not the cause of the leak. The head of the bolt had dug into the plate (a bit) and left a slight groove on the surface. A thin coated metal gasket is not able to conform to the groove and therefore, this caused a leak path.
I corrected the direction of the plate, scuffed the areas where a “new” groove was created (due to installing the plate incorrectly) and used hylomar blue on both sides of the new gasket. Reinstalled and torqued….so far so good. Worse case, I will just buy a new plate.
There is a small leak from the timing chain tensioner access cover.
Upon further review, it appears that I had installed the cover inside/out. Both the tabs and the bulge are supposed to face outward, not inward.
Reversing the direction of the plate was not the cause of the leak. The head of the bolt had dug into the plate (a bit) and left a slight groove on the surface. A thin coated metal gasket is not able to conform to the groove and therefore, this caused a leak path.
I corrected the direction of the plate, scuffed the areas where a “new” groove was created (due to installing the plate incorrectly) and used hylomar blue on both sides of the new gasket. Reinstalled and torqued….so far so good. Worse case, I will just buy a new plate.
Last edited:
Rechecked this “repair” after 900+ miles and the plate is bone-dry. The hylomar + gasket combo worked.
Since the engine has survived 800+ miles, I moved forward with rebuilding the p/s pump, replacing the high pressure p/s hose and two of the low-pressure return hoses.
Here is a video of the engine bay after the p/s repairs but before I degreased the subframe:
Warning: the lack of rust might make some of the East Coasters like @JTK jealous.
I also replaced the front bank ignition coils with new Denso coils to make the car more reliable for long trips. Supposedly the early 2GR-FE coils have a high rate of failure.
Here is a video of the engine bay after the p/s repairs but before I degreased the subframe:
Warning: the lack of rust might make some of the East Coasters like @JTK jealous.
I also replaced the front bank ignition coils with new Denso coils to make the car more reliable for long trips. Supposedly the early 2GR-FE coils have a high rate of failure.
Nice job on repairs
This happened to one of the FIL Escort I inherited. The plug was so worn the wire crumbled, or maybe both were bad.
never buy a camry with a v6. it isnt needed
Lol, I don't know, you could say the same thing about 2.5 vs 30 Escapes, but having owned an 2008 with a 3.0 V6 and now having a 2010 with the 2.5L I4, well, the 6-cylinder is needed if you want to not hate driving your vehicle every time you drive it LOL. A V6 just offers a smoother, more enjoyable driving experience all around. Whether it's a Camry or Escape which weigh about the same.
My sister went from a 3.5 2010 Taurus to a 2005 2.4 Camry when the Ford died (water pump and timing chains etc). From a maintenance aspect the 4 cylinder Camry is much better, but she really dislikes the lack of power.
One year and 10K update.
Engine is still running well. No misfires, no oil seepage or leakage.
Of course, I probably just jinxed myself.
Engine is still running well. No misfires, no oil seepage or leakage.
Of course, I probably just jinxed myself.
It’s a Toyota. I bet it’s fixed
Update - as I feared, this engine has had some hiccups after being "repaired."
At 142K (1/2023): it developed a severe cyl #6 misfire at cold start-up. After the vehicle was brought to me, I was unable to duplicate it. Compression and leakdown tests were perfect, camera inspection of the cyl (after an overnight soak with cooling system pressurized) showed no coolant intrusion. Only issue found was poor pin fitment at the ignition coil connector, so I replaced that pigtail and spark plug. Issue has not returned, but the lack of a definitive repair does not inspire confidence.
At 144K (3/2023): CEL with a P0015. Oil control valves are fairly common on the earlier 2GR engines (outlined in a TSB for this code), so I removed the upper intake and replaced both the intake and exhaust oil control valves. When I performed some post-repair testing of the VVT system via scan tool, during one of the tests, I did get a pending P0017. Unfortunately, on some of the very early 2GR engines like this one, these VVT can sometimes mean that it needs updated cam gears and camshaft housing - which would require for the engine to come out again.
Moral of the story: the original repair was a huge labor investment and I sorta wish that I had installed updated cam gears, cam housing(s) and a new HG (for the front bank) while the engine was out, but that would have added $2K+ in parts.
At 142K (1/2023): it developed a severe cyl #6 misfire at cold start-up. After the vehicle was brought to me, I was unable to duplicate it. Compression and leakdown tests were perfect, camera inspection of the cyl (after an overnight soak with cooling system pressurized) showed no coolant intrusion. Only issue found was poor pin fitment at the ignition coil connector, so I replaced that pigtail and spark plug. Issue has not returned, but the lack of a definitive repair does not inspire confidence.
At 144K (3/2023): CEL with a P0015. Oil control valves are fairly common on the earlier 2GR engines (outlined in a TSB for this code), so I removed the upper intake and replaced both the intake and exhaust oil control valves. When I performed some post-repair testing of the VVT system via scan tool, during one of the tests, I did get a pending P0017. Unfortunately, on some of the very early 2GR engines like this one, these VVT can sometimes mean that it needs updated cam gears and camshaft housing - which would require for the engine to come out again.
Moral of the story: the original repair was a huge labor investment and I sorta wish that I had installed updated cam gears, cam housing(s) and a new HG (for the front bank) while the engine was out, but that would have added $2K+ in parts.
I'm so sorry to hear all this 
We sometimes forget that Toyotas can be unreliable
We sometimes forget that Toyotas can be unreliable
