2008 Focus Valvoline VO-25- way too long OCI

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Nyogtha
That Ecore media, end caps, & core stood up to everything that run threw at it.

Wonder if the combo valve was bypassing and if ADBV functionality was compromised? If so, how does compromised ADBV functionality affect BPV functionality on combo valves? These questions are in my mind on all oil filters that use combo valves, not just Ecores.

don't know about combo valve but the ADBV was brittle. The filter is positioned vertically so it probably didn't matter there.
 
Yuck!
37.gif


At least the ecore plastic cage didn't break and cause the media to blow thru it! Well, thank you for posting
thumbsup2.gif


What is the intended OCI of the TG and Synpower you put in?
smile.gif


A Fram Ultra or Wix XP would probably look fine with that 20k on it. Do you plan on doing a few multiple very-short OCI's to clean out that [censored]? You should pull the valve cover (if it's not difficult on that car) and see how bad it looks
banana2.gif
 
E150GT, good brother.
I did my older sisters Hyundai (about 10,500 miles on bulk dino and a torn Purolator).
Her oil actually looked amazing for the miles and lack of filtration.

Originally Posted By: Kruse
When it comes to E-core filters, I’ve done a 180° on them, and I think they’re a pretty good filter, compared to other entry-level filters.

Never had a problem with them since they redesigned them years ago for a stronger cage. Seen quite a few posted very gunked up but the filter media held.
They seem to hold up well, especially compared to the Purolator counterparts.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Yuck!
37.gif


At least the ecore plastic cage didn't break and cause the media to blow thru it! Well, thank you for posting
thumbsup2.gif


What is the intended OCI of the TG and Synpower you put in?
smile.gif


A Fram Ultra or Wix XP would probably look fine with that 20k on it. Do you plan on doing a few multiple very-short OCI's to clean out that [censored]? You should pull the valve cover (if it's not difficult on that car) and see how bad it looks
banana2.gif


I told her to bring it back in 2500 miles and I am going to change the filter with a Fram Ultra. I am going to look at the condition of the filter and make a decision about the oil change. I didn't see any gunk on the dipstick or through the fill hole, so I am thinking the engine may not be bad. I could be wrong. It wouldn't hurt to pull the valve cover off and it shouldn't be too hard since its a 4 banger. I kinda went over the car and last year when I did her brakes, I changed the brake fluid, so thats good. She needs a new fuel filter and a coolant flush and maybe a transmission drain and fill. It also needs motor mounts bad and most likely a thermostat. She keeps getting an intermittent code for her coolant temp not being high enough. I am assuming its her thermostat. It's amazing what a person with no interest in cars can let their car get to. I might as well do all of that myself since she doesn't have two nickels to rub together and I've pretty much sorted through my cars by now. She's paying me by watching my dog when I go out of town and chic-fil a. Works for me.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher
E150GT, good brother.
I did my older sisters Hyundai (about 10,500 miles on bulk dino and a torn Purolator).
Her oil actually looked amazing for the miles and lack of filtration.

Originally Posted By: Kruse
When it comes to E-core filters, I’ve done a 180° on them, and I think they’re a pretty good filter, compared to other entry-level filters.

Never had a problem with them since they redesigned them years ago for a stronger cage. Seen quite a few posted very gunked up but the filter media held.
They seem to hold up well, especially compared to the Purolator counterparts.


I was interested to see what the filter looked like since I knew she went to a chain and I figured they'd use some jobber filter. I am impressed with it really I have never had any experience with E-cores before as none of my cars use them. I wouldn't use them myself since I like the wix or fram ultras or oem (besides motorcraft).
 
Sell the beast. It's likely all sludged up inside and the engine has suffered due to neglect.I wonder how long the previous changes were over due too.
 
Quote:
...don't know about combo valve but the ADBV was brittle. The filter is positioned vertically so it probably didn't matter there.

Thing is the bypass portion of the nitrile 'combo valve' (bypass and adbv together) is tied to adbv condition. If the adbv was brittle as nitrile tends to get over time, could it have an affect in proper functioning of the bypass function as well? And what might that be?

Perhaps for 3-5k mile ocis where nitrile stays pliable, likely ok. Longer is the question mark imo.

As a side note, ACDelco ecore filters for newer GM models which now have internal filter bypass use a separate dome poppet type bypass, not a combo valve.
 
Don't wage your money or time @ 2500 miles to change the filter. The TG are good for 10k miles. Run 10k then change the oil and filter. The car is and will be fine. It's made it to 160k miles and her system of maintenance has been just fine.
 
I have learned the combo valve equipped eCores lose their ADBV function before 3000 miles on my Ford Ranger 4L V6. The filter is mounted mostly up but canted at about a 30 degree angle. YMMV on other applications with this filter type.
 
Interesting story. Many people are not into cars, so really can't fault them for that, sister or fiance. For $$$ reasons though, a little more maintenance would help economically.

I might have shot an engine flush fluid through it before the oil change. Also, you used a 0w20 HM in a 160k mile engine in TX, and I might have chosen a 5w30 HM in that scenario to keep oil consumption even lower since they may not check the oil level often enough, the real danger.

Good choice going with High Mileage oil since those seals might be beggin' for flexibility by now.

A Fram Ultra holds a lot more junk, so putting one on right away would hold extra sludge we see freed up.

Battery story was interesting. Those Duralasts are a great choice, yet I haven't seen cracks near the post like that. Maybe they need thicker plastic near there, or the cables were stressing it out. Rearrange the cables if possible.
 
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Don't wage your money or time @ 2500 miles to change the filter. The TG are good for 10k miles. Run 10k then change the oil and filter. The car is and will be fine. It's made it to 160k miles and her system of maintenance has been just fine.


Based on my observations, her maintenance system is pretty nil if you ask me. No way I am running her oil 10k until I see that the entire engine is not sludged up. After that, then we can probably do that.
 
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Interesting story. Many people are not into cars, so really can't fault them for that, sister or fiance. For $$$ reasons though, a little more maintenance would help economically.

I might have shot an engine flush fluid through it before the oil change. Also, you used a 0w20 HM in a 160k mile engine in TX, and I might have chosen a 5w30 HM in that scenario to keep oil consumption even lower since they may not check the oil level often enough, the real danger.

Good choice going with High Mileage oil since those seals might be beggin' for flexibility by now.

A Fram Ultra holds a lot more junk, so putting one on right away would hold extra sludge we see freed up.

Battery story was interesting. Those Duralasts are a great choice, yet I haven't seen cracks near the post like that. Maybe they need thicker plastic near there, or the cables were stressing it out. Rearrange the cables if possible.


The car has been run on 0w20 forever so I dont worry about that. Her car is on my radar now. She is gonna be crying the blues if this car breaks because she has no money. I will help her with the maintenance and make sure it gets done, but she's on her own if it grenades.
Im pretty sure on the battery it was a combo of things. The terminal was torqued on there like crazy and its possible that and maybe a weak case contributed to the issue. Add in the texas heat and you got a crack.
 
Originally Posted By: E150GT
[... I will help her with the maintenance and make sure it gets done, but she's on her own if it grenades.
...

Sound like me with my mom, my sister and her husband. Their general lack of maintenance is going to kill their vehicles.
My BIL truck I am afraid may be a loosing fight, but it already has $1500 into it to get it back running so he can start working again. Still needs a front suspension/steering rebuild. Maybe this fall...
Sisters SUV needs a new CV joint (leaking, but no torn boot yet), tires, and a complete fluid change all around, as well as possible some front end work.
Mom's SUV has had most stuff done, but I still need to replace shocks/struts and tires on it.
 
Originally Posted By: E150GT
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Don't wage your money or time @ 2500 miles to change the filter. The TG are good for 10k miles. Run 10k then change the oil and filter. The car is and will be fine. It's made it to 160k miles and her system of maintenance has been just fine.


Based on my observations, her maintenance system is pretty nil if you ask me. No way I am running her oil 10k until I see that the entire engine is not sludged up. After that, then we can probably do that.


The fact the car has made it to 160,000 miles means she has done an adequate job of servicing the car. If she hadn't the car wouldn't still be running.

People way over think maintenance. The advice to do an engine flush for sludge is just horrible. Doing that risks seizing the engine.

Service vehicles, taxies etc get minimum maintenance with the cheapest approved products and live long and hard lives. My shop has the contract to maintain the county school busses and local police vehicles. My shop uses the cheapest bulk fluids meeting specs and the vehicles run hundreds of thousands of miles.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ToadU

The fact the car has made it to 160,000 miles means she has done an adequate job of servicing the car. If she hadn't the car wouldn't still be running.

People way over think maintenance. The advice to do an engine flush for sludge is just horrible. Doing that risks seizing the engine.


I agree! In this case, less remedial action really is "more". Count your blessings, salute the little Valvoline filter that valiantly served way too long, and simply move on with routine, regular maintenance.
 
I agree with you E150GT about making sure that motor is all right first. I would not do a flush on it myself. I would just do a run of Rotella T5 10w30 in there for a 3k mile run and see what I got from there and maybe a second short run of that if needed. Then go back to "your regular scheduled programming" after that point.
 
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Originally Posted By: E150GT
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Don't wage your money or time @ 2500 miles to change the filter. The TG are good for 10k miles. Run 10k then change the oil and filter. The car is and will be fine. It's made it to 160k miles and her system of maintenance has been just fine.


Based on my observations, her maintenance system is pretty nil if you ask me. No way I am running her oil 10k until I see that the entire engine is not sludged up. After that, then we can probably do that.


The fact the car has made it to 160,000 miles means she has done an adequate job of servicing the car. If she hadn't the car wouldn't still be running.

People way over think maintenance. The advice to do an engine flush for sludge is just horrible. Doing that risks seizing the engine.

Service vehicles, taxies etc get minimum maintenance with the cheapest approved products and live long and hard lives. My shop has the contract to maintain the county school busses and local police vehicles. My shop uses the cheapest bulk fluids meeting specs and the vehicles run hundreds of thousands of miles.

You're right. I'm sure there's plenty of fleet vehicles out there getting minimal maintenance and still run. I don't think an oil change in 1k miles after a long oci is overkill. As for other maintenance, it's had it's oil changed for the most part and I did the brakes last year and changed the original brake fluid out. Other than that, it's had nothing but tires and batteries. Not a recipe for a reliable vehicle by my standards.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top