2007 Kohler Courage 17HP Cranks w/spark but no start

L

ls973800

Joined
Jan 30, 2013
Messages
503
Location
Lake County, Ohio
My 2007 Kohler Courage 17HP engine has spark, turns over well, but will not start. No luck using starting fluid either. Valves are set at .005 intake and .007 exhaust. I saw where the top of the combustion stroke should have the flywheel magnet in line with the ignition module (coil?) but mine is about 30 degrees before it lines up but the piston is at TDC.

I have a rod inserted to know when the piston is at the top of it's stroke and the valve rocker arms are loose. As I spin the motor to line up the magnet with the ignition module one of the valves does begin to open. Is this a problem not having the module lined up with the magnet at TDC?

I have a .010 air gap so as mentioned am getting good spark. If not a problem, could the automatic compression release be defective and not allowing compression to build for the power stroke?

Any thoughts why it won't start even with spark and starting fluid and all safety switches are operating correctly since I do have spark?



koh eng 1.webp
 
The magnet should be centered on the coil about 10 or 20 degrees before the piston reaches TDC. If you're saying it's after, there is definitely a timing problem. The flywheel should be keyed to the shaft. It's not supposed to be a shearable key but anything can happen.
 
Sorry I can't be of any help with the issue here. But, having owned a ride on LM with a Kohler "courage", engine, in my experience the name "Courage" for that engine, truly an oxymoron.

Good luck.
 
jeepman3071 said:
Is it a strong blue spark at the plug? I would get a compression tester and test that.
Click to expand...
Yes, strong blue spark. I did pick up a compression gauge tester but when reading the engine service manual found that you can't get a good reading because of the automatic compression release feature on the engine. They suggest a leak down test so I will have to pick up that kit from the local auto part with the free rental tools.
 
If its getting fuel, i'd worry about a timing issue, crank keyway etc. Will it run on dino farts? ( starting fluid sprayed in the carb).
 
ls973800 said:
Yes, strong blue spark. I did pick up a compression gauge tester but when reading the engine service manual found that you can't get a good reading because of the automatic compression release feature on the engine. They suggest a leak down test so I will have to pick up that kit from the local auto part with the free rental tools.
Click to expand...

How many hours do you have on this Engine?
You said the engine will not even start with starting fluid?

Do you have a Fuel Shutoff solenoid at the bottom of your Carburetor, there should be a wire going to it. Sometimes they get junk on them and get stuck in the Closed Position.
 
mk378 said:
The magnet should be centered on the coil about 10 or 20 degrees before the piston reaches TDC. If you're saying it's after, there is definitely a timing problem. The flywheel should be keyed to the shaft. It's not supposed to be a shearable key but anything can happen.
Click to expand...
OK, looking down at the flywheel the magnet is just about at 6 o'clock when the piston is TDC. The coil is at about 7:30 o'clock. The flywheel spins clockwise and the key is intact and both the flywheel and crankshaft spin. In the position shown in the pictures the valves are closed with the proper valve clearances. When the magnet turns to the coil, one of the valves started opening.
magnet 6 oclock.webp
magnet 6 oclock top.webp
 
Brian123 said:
How many hours do you have on this Engine?
You said the engine will not even start with starting fluid?

Do you have a Fuel Shutoff solenoid at the bottom of your Carburetor, there should be a wire going to it. Sometimes they get junk on them and get stuck in the Closed Position.
Click to expand...
405 hours on the engine. The fuel shut off solenoid is getting 12 volts and is opening since I am getting fuel into the engine as evidenced by the wet spark plug if I remove it after trying to start the engine using both starter fluid and the fuel from the carburetor. The spark plug is about 2 weeks old and gives a good spark when resting outside the head to test for spark

Note that I removed the engine to have the block welded due to a crack which is common on these Courage engines from what I found out. The engine ran great when it was removed. After it was welded and I put the engine back in it will not start. The block is aluminum so I doubt enough heat was produced to melt the cam gears which sit about 1/2 inch away from the inside of the block where the welding was done.
 
All the mounting bolts are torqued to spec after reinstalling (Good Ground)?
Have you tried getting a starting boost jumper pack on the battery then try cranking?
If the ignition coil has a kill wire you could try unplugging it temporarily & try to crank?
 
Sayjac said:
Sorry I can't be of any help with the issue here. But, having owned a ride on LM with a Kohler "courage", engine, in my experience the name "Courage" for that engine, truly an oxymoron.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Just to clarify...the single cylinder courage is the problem child but not the twin cylinder.
 
mk378 said:
How do you know this? Did you take the crank bolt out and look?
It definitely is not timed properly.
Click to expand...
On my way to see if I can get a replacement key! I had looked and saw the top of the key but didn't realize since the crank was turning by hand and by the starter that the key was in fact SHEARED! Half in the flywheel, half in the crankshaft. Found it by removing the flywheel instead of just looking and sticking a thin rod into the top and feeling the key. Removed the flywheel which came off with part of the key in it and the other curved part still in the crankshaft. WOW! Thanks for keeping me on the correct path. Will report back once I find a key and get it back in and the valves readjusted.
 
ls973800 said:
On my way to see if I can get a replacement key! I had looked and saw the top of the key but didn't realize since the crank was turning by hand and by the starter that the key was in fact SHEARED! Half in the flywheel, half in the crankshaft. Found it by removing the flywheel instead of just looking and sticking a thin rod into the top and feeling the key. Removed the flywheel which came off with part of the key in it and the other curved part still in the crankshaft. WOW! Thanks for keeping me on the correct path. Will report back once I find a key and get it back in and the valves readjusted.
Click to expand...
Good you found it. If it has spark, compression, but won't run on ether, its a timing problem.
 
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