2007 CRV pulls right intermittently?

[D60]

Apparently pulling right is common enough in the Honda world that it's known as PTTR (pull to the right) on forums.

This '07 CRV pulled right quite badly as soon as I started my test drive. I drove about 4 miles one way and then on the return trip on the same road it didn't noticeably pull at all.

There were also TSBs issued such as 05-022 with instructions on clocking the upper strut mounts to correct this. However technically this TSB doesn't apply to the 3rd Gen 2007 MY I'm looking at.

Brakes not running hot and don't appear to be dragging. Strut mount bearings feel good if I steer with front wheels unweighted. Tire wear looks good.

The owner says previous shops blamed something in the rear he can't remember and quoted $1k to fix. Everything looks tight in the rear (and front) and I have no idea what this was about.

Has anyone experienced the notorious Honda PTTR but only intermittently? I'm stumped.

 

[GSCJR]

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2009-honda-crv-recall-rear-frame-corrosion.367204/

 

[D60]

Update: it does seem to be throttle dependent, almost like torque steer. I can often get it drifting left and it'll keep drifting left but if I get on the accelerator it'll start going right.

There's not a lick of rust on the vehicle. Anywhere.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Maybe this will help diagnose it at least as an oddity. Steering rack issue pulls right or left.

That was on my daughters '08 with high mileage. Honda and my independent shop had never seen it either. Once discovered, very easy to duplicate.

 

[D60]

Maybe this will help diagnose it at least as an oddity. Steering rack issue pulls right or left.

That was on my daughters '08 with high mileage. Honda and my independent shop had never seen it either. Once discovered, very easy to duplicate.

You're amazing!

And it's VERY interesting you say this because I had a similar suspicion. It seemed like if I could get away from the road crown, making it go slightly left would cause it to just stay that way. Ditto for right. I thought to myself it almost seems like return-to-center is just not quite what it should be.

That said, I'd need to have a Come-to-Jesus talk with him first about maybe getting another alignment BEFORE we go down the path of replacing the rack. I'd hate to condemn the rack when all it needed was a good alignment to restore return-to-center.

 

[CharBaby]

The CR-V may have a tire that has excessive radial pull. And/or, the car may naturally pull to the right by it's suspension calibration/alignment and follow/lean toward the shoulder of the road as well. I hate that! Every Toyota that we've owned were the worst.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

The CR-V may have a tire that has excessive radial pull. And/or, the car may naturally pull to the right by it's suspension calibration/alignment and follow/lean toward the shoulder of the road as well. I hate that! Every Toyota that we've owned were the worst.

Mine had done it with swapping tires to all corners and did it with winter rims/tires the same.

Lots of easy labor things like the tire swaps to try first. The make left turns and find a straight road to try is pretty easy, followed by the right turns to same road also pretty easy.

Mine was probably 1 in a million, D60 might be 2 in a million.

Some vehicles they can make tweaks depending on shop. Many Sequoia/Tundra owners complained about unstable and wandering. Changing either caster or camber (I forget which one) to max but still in spec fixed that. That came from a Hunter software engineer that had a Tundra.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

You're amazing!

And it's VERY interesting you say this because I had a similar suspicion. It seemed like if I could get away from the road crown, making it go slightly left would cause it to just stay that way. Ditto for right. I thought to myself it almost seems like return-to-center is just not quite what it should be.

That said, I'd need to have a Come-to-Jesus talk with him first about maybe getting another alignment BEFORE we go down the path of replacing the rack. I'd hate to condemn the rack when all it needed was a good alignment to restore return-to-center.

Yea the cost and rack change was definitely last choice. Shop tried the other options first and even said they would hate to change just because. Once it was easy to duplicate, it was easier to justify since it was my 19yo daughter driving multiple hours back and forth to college, road trips with friends and to get to work. Just the piece of mind/stress of not having to constantly make corrections so you don't drift off the road was worth it for me. Still cheaper than a couple new car payments and the safety factor/insurance etc.

From Tundra solutions but maybe your shop can work with you to try it. Honda might react differently.

"The "specs" are more a "method" than a set of numbers.

Start with the alignment settings that Toyota recommends for your vehicle. The alignment console has these in its database.

Set camber and total toe dead on the recommended settings. Set caster right at the upper end of the range the specs allow. These settings are within what Toyota allows for your vehicle, so neither they nor the alignment shop have any reason to object, and the higher caster setting will provide the maximum steering stability that Toyota's specs for your vehicle can provide."

from internet -
Caster is the angle of a vehicle's steering pivot when viewed from the side, measured in degrees. It's an important setting that can affect steering and handling, but not tire wear like camber:

• Positive caster: The top of the pivot leans toward the rear of the car, with the lower ball joint in front of the upper ball joint or strut mount. This setting can improve straight-line stability, handling, and cornering, and promote self-centering of the steering wheel. Factory alignment specs for most vehicles call for some degree of positive caster.

 

[BrendanC]

both of our 7th gen accords pull to the right under acceleration and left on deceleration. my alignment shop that’s been around forever says that it’s just torque steer and there is nothing they can do to get rid of it. once cruising, they’re straight as an arrow. i installed adjustable upper balljoints on both of the cars allowing for caster to be set and that helped a lot.

 

[1 SX]

I'll throw this thought out there. Most Hondas have "compliance bushings" AKA lower control arm bushings for all the others manufactures..

On the Forte I have replaced every suspension "Wear" part with OEM on the whole front end... MINUS the lower control arm bushings. Over the years I have had this car aligned near a DOZEN total times at other shops, and even aligned it MYSELF on a "John bean" machine... Every time after, it would have a right bias BUT only when accelerating(steering wheel slightly off center under load) and sometimes a left bias depending on road crown. I can "Set" it straight and it drive straight AS long as there is no acceleration or deceleration taken place.. I also have taken this car to the dealer, and a couple other shops for multiple point inspections etc, and these bushing were NEVER mentioned, even when asked about these bushing, I got the same answer multiple times. "GOOD"

Fast forward over 50K miles later, and this left/right/center "Drift" / "pull" seems to be a little more pronounced then I remember.

The last time I did a tire rotate, I noticed when tightening the lug nuts to the factory spec tq, the front tires almost gave a appearance of loose tie rod because of the forward/back moment of the tire while setting the lug nut torque. At that very moment it "clicked" The lower control arm bushings "look" okay, but are actually allowing a lot of movement of lower control arm mechanism/tire when. underload/acceleration/deceleration.

Ordered the OEM complete left and right side lower control arms/with bushings already installed, and will install this week.

 

[1 SX]

This might help others of my results.

I WAS dealing with the same-ish kinda pull/drift on the Kia even after correcting the rear "toe" settings (YES if the rear is out out adjustment, it can cause a noticeable pull, but more so consistently though)

For me the main lower control arm bushing was very loose inside the control arm assembly allowing excessive movement of the whole wheel assembly, causing the drift/pull on acceleration and deceleration and the noticeable left or right pull when driving through pooling water on roadway or tire rutted pavement.

I replaced both left and right side lower control arm assemblies & lower ball joints, OEM parts with reassembly being a breeze.

The results were immediately noticeable, no pull, no drift, and puddles do not cause a hard pull or any corrections to be made to continue straight