2006 Ford F-150 5.4l V8 Spark plugs

Status
Not open for further replies.
C

[email protected]

Joined
Nov 23, 2004
Messages
966
Location
Michigan
So tonight my friend comes over, her 2006 F-150 has been misfiring badly lately. I hook up my scan-tool, and it has P0300 (multiple misfire), P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire). The CEL is illuminated solid. Truck has 103,000 miles on original spark plugs. You have to accelerate very lightly or the truck bucks like an angry goat.

We go online and buy new spark plugs (Motorcraft SP-515's) and a new motorcraft coil "just in case", we can always return it later if we dont need it, and a fuel filter.

I read on the web that replacing the spark plugs on that era 5.4l is a NIGHTMARE. Apparently the spark plugs are prone to breaking and there is a TSB you must follow, lest you want a huge headache.

Anybody out there with experience or advice or tips with the 5.4l and spark plug replacement? Besides, of course, the obvious "run away" lol
 
Last edited:
MANY youtube videos on the problems that you could have. Have the extraction tool ready....
 
Originally Posted By: [email protected]
Yeah, thats what I meant to type... I wonder if I can still edit.


you can swap Coils around if the misfire doesnt follow it the coils are fine.

IMO it probably needs the COP and plugs.
 
Bet ya a bud lite its a coil....try that first...if it works drive it and take it to a reputable shop when ya gave time and let them put plugs in it...if they break one at least they can have the privilidge of dealing with it lol...its gonna cost $$$ whether you break it or them...but its a pita job fixing it..
 
If it accelerates slowly, but not with a load, VERY likely it's a blown coil.

I'd try to replace the coil. If it doesn't fix it, bring the truck to a garage for plugs. You don't want that headache.
 
Originally Posted By: DSparks
Bet ya a bud lite its a coil....try that first...if it works drive it and take it to a reputable shop when ya gave time and let them put plugs in it...if they break one at least they can have the privilidge of dealing with it lol...its gonna cost $$$ whether you break it or them...but its a pita job fixing it..


Interesting. So would 1 bad COP cause a misfire on cylinder 4 AND a multiple misfire DTC? If so, I will gladly just replace the 1 COP and call it a day! I'd rather NOT replace the spark plugs and have to deal with them breaking off into the cylinder head.

Also, at ~103,000 miles I plan on cleaning the MAF sensor. That seems to be recommended on the Ford forums on these engines. Anything else Im missing? I want to solve this misfire issue first and foremost though.
 
Last edited:
Lookup the user bulls*h*i*tkorner (minus the asterisks) on youtube. That dude does a very unorthodox method of running several tanks of fuel system cleaner then an Induction service then using a rattle gun to remove the plugs on a hot engine.

Never tackled one like that- removing plugs hot was always a no-no on GM engines for sure at least. But he removed all eight without damaging a single one. Looks promising but it would probably be wise to have an extraction tool on standby still.

Also its expensive but installing 8 new Motorcraft coils would probably be my plan of attack on one of those just to be done with it.
 
Last edited:
Impact gun. I've now done 6 5.4L 3V engines with the 2 piece plug and not one broke.
The key is seafoam the engine first to clean any carbon off the exposed threads inside the combustion chamber then some kind of penetrating oil prior to removal.
When I did them I went full blast right off the hop and they came right out.
Warm engine helps too. I don't know if the experts recommend it but in the trucks I've done the engine being warm helped.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Impact gun. I've now done 6 5.4L 3V engines with the 2 piece plug and not one broke.
The key is seafoam the engine first to clean any carbon off the exposed threads inside the combustion chamber then some kind of penetrating oil prior to removal.
When I did them I went full blast right off the hop and they came right out.
Warm engine helps too. I don't know if the experts recommend it but in the trucks I've done the engine being warm helped.


I did watch the youtube video and read on the web about the seafoam and impact gun.. very interesting!!

While Im VERY leary to use anything but a ratchet removing spark plugs, if I take on the plugs, I am going to give it two seafoam treatments before AND use carb cleaner/solvent as per the Ford TSB.
 
Originally Posted By: [email protected]
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Impact gun. I've now done 6 5.4L 3V engines with the 2 piece plug and not one broke.
The key is seafoam the engine first to clean any carbon off the exposed threads inside the combustion chamber then some kind of penetrating oil prior to removal.
When I did them I went full blast right off the hop and they came right out.
Warm engine helps too. I don't know if the experts recommend it but in the trucks I've done the engine being warm helped.


I did watch the youtube video and read on the web about the seafoam and impact gun.. very interesting!!

While Im VERY leary to use anything but a ratchet removing spark plugs, if I take on the plugs, I am going to give it two seafoam treatments before AND use carb cleaner/solvent as per the Ford TSB.



I was nervous at first however after the first one comes out you get more comfortable with it.
Removal with an impact is completely safe ,however I don't suggest reinstalling them with it.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I was nervous at first however after the first one comes out you get more comfortable with it.
Removal with an impact is completely safe ,however I don't suggest reinstalling them with it.


Ok, Im willing to try it on removal then.

Can you tell me exactly what steps you took? I read the TSB and watched the youtube videos, it looks like this is what I should do (let me know if Im missing anything):

0.) Give truck seafoam treatment
1.) Remove COP
2.) Use air compressor to blow out spark plug well to remove dirt, etc.
3.) Loosen spark plug 1/4 turn.
4.) Put enough carb cleaner - about 1/4 inch worth - in the spark plug well and let that wick DOWN the spark plug threads
5.) Wait 1 hour, then remove with impact gun

Is that how you did it? Also, what penetrating oil/carb cleaner did you use and why?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: wirelessF
If you can make 50/50 ATF/Acetone it would make a strong penetrating oil.


What I am trying to accomplish here, and recommended by Ford, is putting a solvent that will wick down the spark plug threads and soften the hardened carbon on the spark plug flute, which is prone to breaking off in the cylinder head upon removal because of hardened carbon build up.

If I had ATF or acetone laying around, I'd use it... however, i do have PB Blaster already and a can of carb/FI/tbi cleaner.
 
K. I had the owners seafoam them using half a can twice.
Pulled off the cops while engine was still warm. Blew out the plug wells with air.
Sprayed on blaster in the plug holes with engine still warm.
Once I sprayed the plug holes I had a smoke then put the impact socket and extension and away I went.
I used my cordless 1/2 Milwaukee. 19 volt at full torque. Came out no problem.
The first one I did the owner told his buddies with 3v engines and I ended up getting nominated to do more.
Have an easy out ready though just in case. You don't want to get held up in case one does break.
 
I posted this on another forum in June of 2011:

Just wanted to share my spark plug changing experience.
My truck (2007 F-150 Screw 4x4 5.4 Flex) has 106,000 miles on it and I decided to change the plugs. I bought 8 MC SP515 plugs, OTC6900 socket, and the Lisle 65600 tool just in case.
Removed the air intake tube, ECM, and COPs. Poured 10ML SuperTech carb cleaner in each hole and cracked each plug 1/4 turn with my torque wrench set at 30 ft lbs. Let them sit for 1 hour and 15 minutes them torqued them back to 25 ft lbs. Then loosened them back 1/4 turn. I did this 3 times. Then went to 1/2 turn. By this time the plugs were creaking and getting easier to turn. after going to 1/2 turn 3 times I sucked the carb cleaner out and switched to a standard 3/8 ratchet and tightened/loosened each plug until they came out. The passengers side rear turned very hard so I let it soak for an extra 1/2 hour turned out 1/2 and then loosened/tightened it until it loosened and came out like the other 7. It was very black from carbon build up, more than the others. I had to order nickel ant-seize so I will get the new ones installed tuesday.
Anyone apprehensive about doing this yourself need not worry. Use patience and follow the TSB and things will work out. Do have the Lisle tool on hand just in case, though.
Phone calls to 3 dealers netted 3 quotes:
$143.00 labor, $30.00 for each broken plug, $28.00 for each plug. Plus tax.
$195.00 labor, $150.00 for each broken plug, $25.89 for each plug. Plus tax.
$525.00 for parts, labor, and tax out the door plus $50.00 for each broken plug.
My plugs were $9.00 from Rockauto, the socket was $25.00 locally, and the lisle tool was $68.00 from Rockauto. I'm going to sell the tool and start changing them every 50,000 following the TSB.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Leo99
Premature spark plug wear
2
Replies
33
Views
3K
Jhemiway23
M
Early Catalytic Converter Failure Ford F-150
Replies
19
Views
6K
researcher
S
SKP makes iridium spark plugs for that stupid Ford 3V application
Replies
16
Views
9K
pbm
M
2006 Honda Ridgeline with 232,316 on spark plugs
Replies
15
Views
2K
CheezWhiz
T
High Mileage Ford 5.4 - Stay Away?!
2
Replies
32
Views
6K
wtd
Back
Top