Originally Posted By: i6pwr
Interesting that it's a short to ground. I had the pan off twice in the last 2 months, only right after I got it back together this last time, the CEL lit up when I started driving down my street. This was probably right around the initial 1-2 shift.
I don't believe I pinched a wire but anything is possible.
I'm mechanically inclined and do most all my automotive work, so yes....I'm up for the task.
Do you have a Incandescent test light & a Fused jumper wire? Buy a pack of Sewing T-pin's from staples/office depot.....A straightened paper clip will also work for back-probing.
I would start at the PCM located behind the glove box, This is so you don't do any intrusive back-probing under the hood....Though the great thing about T-pin's is you can slip them in between the wire & rubber seal on sealed connectors.
*Locate Pin/Cavity #9 on the E7 PCM connector, It will be a Gray wire.
*Key Off! Insert T-pin right next to the gray wire into Cavity #9.
*Check that you have made contact with the terminal by connecting your test light to battery positive....It should light when touching the T-pin.
*With a 5 amp fuse installed in your jumper wire hooked to battery positive IN SERIES with the test light like shown.
*Touch the T-pin with the test light.
*If there is a hard short to ground, The fuse will pop & the test light will light-up....Meaning you can't pull the circuit high with 6-9 amps of current. Fuses generally blow a little above their rated amperage.
*If the fuse popped.....Unplug the Solenoid Harness Connector from the transmission case.
*With the test light still hooked to battery positive....Probe the T-pin, If the test light will no longer light....The short to ground is inside the transmission.
Connector views & diagram.
