2005 Sienna trans issue

[i6pwr]

Interesting that it's a short to ground. I had the pan off twice in the last 2 months, only right after I got it back together this last time, the CEL lit up when I started driving down my street. This was probably right around the initial 1-2 shift. I don't believe I pinched a wire but anything is possible. I'm mechanically inclined and do most all my automotive work, so yes....I'm up for the task.

 

[nthach]

From that The Critic told me, it's kinda easy to pinch one of the solenoid wiring harnesses in a Toyota transmission if the filter is being replaced. I've replaced the filter in my parent's Sienna and I don't think I saw any wiring dangerously close to a wire. How's the transmission to body ground looking like - although if there was a bad ground from the tranny body, you will see other DTCs indicating short to ground.

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted By: i6pwr

Interesting that it's a short to ground. I had the pan off twice in the last 2 months, only right after I got it back together this last time, the CEL lit up when I started driving down my street. This was probably right around the initial 1-2 shift. I don't believe I pinched a wire but anything is possible. I'm mechanically inclined and do most all my automotive work, so yes....I'm up for the task.

Do you have a Incandescent test light & a Fused jumper wire? Buy a pack of Sewing T-pin's from staples/office depot.....A straightened paper clip will also work for back-probing. I would start at the PCM located behind the glove box, This is so you don't do any intrusive back-probing under the hood....Though the great thing about T-pin's is you can slip them in between the wire & rubber seal on sealed connectors. *Locate Pin/Cavity #9 on the E7 PCM connector, It will be a Gray wire. *Key Off! Insert T-pin right next to the gray wire into Cavity #9. *Check that you have made contact with the terminal by connecting your test light to battery positive....It should light when touching the T-pin. *With a 5 amp fuse installed in your jumper wire hooked to battery positive IN SERIES with the test light like shown. *Touch the T-pin with the test light. *If there is a hard short to ground, The fuse will pop & the test light will light-up....Meaning you can't pull the circuit high with 6-9 amps of current. Fuses generally blow a little above their rated amperage. *If the fuse popped.....Unplug the Solenoid Harness Connector from the transmission case. *With the test light still hooked to battery positive....Probe the T-pin, If the test light will no longer light....The short to ground is inside the transmission. Connector views & diagram.

 

[clinebarger]

DO NOT use cheap fuses in your jumper wire, They are never NEAR the rated amperage!! I use Littelfuse or Eaton Bussmann....... I like to use ATC style fuses for testing equipment, GM/Delphi cooling fan/blower motor connectors make a perfect fuse holder that won't spread with use like the JUNK fuse holders sold at auto part stores. GM 12101906 is a good part number for the fuse holder, I would just go to a wreaking yard & get the fuse holder & a bunch of fuses.

 

[clinebarger]

You could just pull the pan & check it out....This IS most likely where the problem lies! The SR Solenoid wire is Violet.

 

[red7404]

WHY O WHY would any one think that putting electrical wires in oil was a good idea?

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted By: red7404

WHY O WHY would any one think that putting electrical wires in oil was a good idea?

Been working just fine for over 50 years.

 

[i6pwr]

Thanks clinebarger...I will try to tear into this again this weekend, will keep you posted. Thanks!