2004 Grand Cherokee 4.0, manual says 10w-30 so I'd like to stay with that until the warranty is up. I was thinking either Chevron 10w-30 or Trop artic 10w-30 syn. blend and a supertech filter or purolator. Opinions?
2004 Jeep which oil/filter combo?
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Chevron 10w-30 and Supertech filter will do you just fine
How long OCIs are you thinking? I'd do 3,000-mile OCIs
Oil is cheap and I like to get a good night sleep without having to worry about the oil in my car
How long OCIs are you thinking? I'd do 3,000-mile OCIs
Oil is cheap and I like to get a good night sleep without having to worry about the oil in my car
When I leased my '04 Wrangler last August, I received a coupon book for ten free dealership oil changes within the first two years. At least in my area, all of the Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler dealers offer that when you purchase/lease a new vehicle. Did you get your G.C. from a dealer? If so, you might want to do some checking into the coupons.
Before anyone starts with the "there's no way I'd take my car to a dealer for an oil change!" tantra, believe me, I used to feel the same way. However, after being on this board for so long now, I've started to believe that there really is no BAD oil nowadays, at least when it comes to the name brands (and even some of the lesser knowns). As long as I double check everything when I get home to make certain they put in the right amount of oil, installed a new filter, tightened everything, etc..., I simply can't justify wasting my own money and time on changing the oil myself. I love changing oil more than anyone, but I can't pass up ten free oil changes on a leased vehicle that I will be turning back in when the lease is up.
As long as you stick with the proper grade and filter specifications (especially under warranty), and keep up on the OCI's, the brand of oil and filter themselves almost becomes a mute point.
Before anyone starts with the "there's no way I'd take my car to a dealer for an oil change!" tantra, believe me, I used to feel the same way. However, after being on this board for so long now, I've started to believe that there really is no BAD oil nowadays, at least when it comes to the name brands (and even some of the lesser knowns). As long as I double check everything when I get home to make certain they put in the right amount of oil, installed a new filter, tightened everything, etc..., I simply can't justify wasting my own money and time on changing the oil myself. I love changing oil more than anyone, but I can't pass up ten free oil changes on a leased vehicle that I will be turning back in when the lease is up.
As long as you stick with the proper grade and filter specifications (especially under warranty), and keep up on the OCI's, the brand of oil and filter themselves almost becomes a mute point.
I don't drive the Jeep much, less than 10,000 miles a year so I was thinking 6 month/5,000 intervals on Chevron 10W-30, the Jeep was used when I bought it, 9000 miles on it.
40 weights shine in this engine, Mobil 1 0w-40 or 5w-40 for 1 year with M1-301 and UOA.
I was using REDLINE 10W-30 with BALDWIN B2-HPG; FUEL POWER & LUBE CONTROL in our 2001 L6-242; did 25m/annual ARX treatment on dino 10W-30 after "MolaSoak". Ran perfectly. (Many posts.)
I use 5 qts Pennzoil 10W-30 and 1 qt of Long Life 15W-40 with a MC FL300 filter for my wife's 2002 4.0. I do change every 3,000 because all of her trips are less than 10 miles.
I am of the opinion that most any name brand dino oil will serve us well with shorter OCIs, with 5,000 OCIs I would go with the blend. Purolator Pure One is an excellent filter and constructed well. Lots of folks here tout SuperTech filters, while they seem to stay together okay, there is little to no data on how well they filter.
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I sorta agree with Ugly3 here. If you're going short ..no need for spending any more on oil and filters. You just spec the oil for the conditions ..price isn't a big deal. If you're going long ..then you should probably go upscale on the filter and oil.
Your engine responds well to heavier oil than spec'd. You should have two weights spec'd for the 4.0. 5w-30 and 10w-30, with a "(preferred)" notation after the 10w-30. IMO, this is because the shearing that 5w-30 will/may experience over the spec'd OCI will turn it into a 20 weight, which is not tollerated well by this engine. 40 weights are probably not necessary for those who do limited duration trips, where the 30 weight never reaches the full temp range (being heavier at the cooler temps).
Even using a 30 weight this engine will allow you to have children, put them through college, and become a grandparent, before it gets tired if it's reasonably maintained.
What type/kind of mileage/service are you subjecting this engine to??
Your engine responds well to heavier oil than spec'd. You should have two weights spec'd for the 4.0. 5w-30 and 10w-30, with a "(preferred)" notation after the 10w-30. IMO, this is because the shearing that 5w-30 will/may experience over the spec'd OCI will turn it into a 20 weight, which is not tollerated well by this engine. 40 weights are probably not necessary for those who do limited duration trips, where the 30 weight never reaches the full temp range (being heavier at the cooler temps).
Even using a 30 weight this engine will allow you to have children, put them through college, and become a grandparent, before it gets tired if it's reasonably maintained.
What type/kind of mileage/service are you subjecting this engine to??
95 GC 4.0 engine Mobil 1 10w30 and PureOne oil filter. Still running strong a 196,000 miles with 5,000 mile OCs.
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