2004 Honda Civic - First oil change experience

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I have a 2004 civic with 96k miles. Wanted to do the oil change myself for the first time ever. Picked up some Mobil 1 synthetic 5-20 with an m1 110 filter, some ramps and other misc items.

Located oil pan and drain bolt. Drain bolt took about 20 minutes to remove and involved a hammer. I'm going to assume this is not normal.

Crush washer was nearly fused and required about 10-15 minutes of plier play time to remove.

I could not remove the oil filter at all. Socket plus filter cap or adjustable strap could not loosen the filter at all.

I'm going to assume this is not the typical oil change experience. What issues will I see by leaving the old filter on? Had to go to work so had no choice but to oil up and go. Anything I could do differently on the next change?
 
straps and caps don't work on stuck oil filters. There's a three prong universal oil filter remover available at Sears. Use that. Uses metal teeth to grip and turn oil filter. If all else fails, use the screw driver method. One car I had, I had to cut away the oil can and use a hammer and a chisel to start thread movement.
 
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Unfortunately, some muscle bound people don't have the word Snug in their vocabulary and just tighten until they can't tighten any more. What you describe is not the normal way to tighten a drain plug or filter. Ed
 
For some reason honda brand oil filters are just a bit smaller to work with the filter cap. As a last resort one time I put a shop rag over the filter and put the cap over that (tapping it gently) making the fit tight enough that I could finally get the filter off.

As far as the crush washer goes when I did my 1st oil change on mine the washer was so deformed and paper thin it was unrecognizable. That's what happens when people get lazy.
 
This isn't the intended way an oil change should go, no, but sadly it is "normal" for cars maintained at quick lubes or by ham-fisted mechanics. If someone had a shop do their oil change for them, I usual call "normal" what you have experienced.

The benefit of doing it yourself is that you can do it right, the way it was intended. So your new "normal" will be easy replacement of filter and washer.

I will second the 3-prong oil filter wrench, available at many auto-parts stores.

Good luck!
 
As far as pliars go, I bought a pair of Fram oil filter pliars from Walmart for three dollars and they work great. I'd try that. I personally can't stand the other types of filter wrenches, especially straps.
 
Having done many 01 Civic diy oil and filter changes I can say I've never had the issues you describe. Seems to me whoever has been doing them to your 04 has been overtightening both the drain bolt and the filter. Also thinking the crush washer may not have been changed in some time.

As for removing the filter, the plier type may work but I like the cam action cap wrench (available at AZ shown below) as opposed to the 3 prong as it grips over a larger surface area. I also think in this case trying to remove the filter with the engine cool/cold 'might' work better, worth a try at least. Also some penetrating lubricant may help. But, depending on how tight the filter is on you may have to try several different 'techniques' and wrench tools to remove it. Last resort is a bogart aviation oil filter removal tool. Hopefully you will be able to get it off with one the other methods though. A google search of how to remove a stuck filter including watching a couple youtubes may help.

As for leaving the filter on, well Honda does recommend the oil filter be changed every other time, so 'if' it was changed last time, not a huge issue. Even if it wasn't it's no biggie but obviously you will want to remove it next time.

Congrats on going diy, after you do this for yourself the issues you experienced this time will be a thing of the past.

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I am a big fan of the oil filter pliers my first oil change on my saturn went similar to yours I actually broke my band wrench trying to get the oil filter off. Went and bought the oil filter pliers and used a little elbow grease and it came right off!
 
Filter pliers should work. The filter on that engine is a bit difficult to reach, so it can be a bit challenging.

Maybe I've been lucky, but I've changed oil on many cars that have been to quick lubes and dealers, and I've always found the oil filter to be way too loose. Perhaps I'm just a gorilla myself?
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The KD Swivoil wrench will take any filter off. They come in four different size ranges to match the
filter you have. Measure the diameter of your filter and I'll give you the correct KD part number.

KDFilterWrench.jpg
 
So the first rule that you learned is what not to do when you change your oil. Do not over tighten anything.
 
If it's on super tight, even an exactly sized cap can round off the flutes on the filter. And the little dimples on a band wrench might not be enough to dig in and it slips. You need something that really digs into the filter. A 3-leg or a cam style wrench are the ones that work best in those cases.

The only issue I would have with a filter with an unsuccessful attempt to remove is that it could be dented or perhaps the base is damaged. It could possibly leak. Filter manufacturers warn that a dented filter could concentrate fatigue and burst at the point it's dented.
 
Originally Posted By: dernp
So the first rule that you learned is what not to do when you change your oil. Do not over tighten anything.

With the right tools, anyone can remove a filter and drain plug fairly easily. Certain tools may work well in ordinary situations, but for extreme situations a properly sized cam or 3-leg are the only kind that don't slip.
 
I had that happen. I bought some filter plier things and basically had to crush the can and turn. If that failed, the screwdriver method was next.

Starting maintenance on previously owned vehicles stinks.
 
To get a stuck oil filter off, take a hammer and screwdriver to it. Bang the hammer on the screwdriver until it goes all the way in except the screwdriver's handle. Then, youcan loosen it.

Also, this is why I like the Purolator PureOne filter. It has a textured grip that really helps with installation and removal. It is also a really good filter as well.

And of course, only tighten the filter by hand. The drain plug should only get about 30 lb-ft of torque when put back on.

Many places like to use the wrong filter, which is usually smaller than specified for the car. These undersize filters are even more difficult to remove.
 
Assuming you didn't put all the stuff on crazy tight,
One tip is to slightly warm up your car before doing the job.
Not hot, don't will burn yourself. But just a trip around the block so the filter is about body temp.

+1 on using oil/channellock pliers. Also be sure to confirm you are turning the filter the right way. Working upside down can often mix up your orientation .
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac

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This thing has been a lifesaver for all those times when the quick lube people think tight means making the oil filter non-removable.

And it works for so many different sizes that you don't have to have different size caps around.
 
I expect this on any car we buy used.
I've also found this on most cars we've bought new.
A cheater on a ratchet handle is normally perfect to get the drain plug out.
A good quality strap wrench of the right size will loosen almost any filter if you have enough room to work with one.
I have one of the three prong wrenches from Sears that I bought for the Forester. It also works well on the '12 Accord.
Both of these cars have vertical filters mounted base up, with the Subbie's filter cleverly positioned through a gap in the exhaust headers. An excellent way to burn one's knuckles.
Cap wrenches aren't all that great, although I had to use one for our MB 201 due to filter placement. A rag or some paper towels will make for a tighter fit with a cap wrench.
This car had its oil filter vertical, base down, which sounds like a mess waiting to happen but never was.
Driving a screwdriver through the can should be a last resort, since you may end up just tearing the can metal when you turn it and you then either have to find some clever way of removing the remains or you have to have the car towed to a shop.
You might want to get the help of a tool owning buddy in removing the oil filter.
Since there's a good chance that you've damaged the can in trying to remove it, I'd make replacing it a priority.
Future changes will be much easier, I promise.
 
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