2003 Vibe Front End

[wallyuwl]

I have all the parts and plan on replacing the front brakes (pads, rotors, calipers) this coming weekend. I'll also bleed the brakes and do an oil change.

The vehicle has about 110k miles. Everything seems fine with steering, no noises from the front end, etc. but all front end components are original except brakes and struts. Struts were replaced about 8 months ago. But...

Anything else I can do easily and should do to the front end at this mileage while I'm doing the brakes? I'm no mechanic but do have some mechanical skills. Any tips on the brake job/bleeding also appreciated (it's been five years since I've done brakes, and that was just pads and rotors).

 

[The Critic]

I would plan on cleaning and adjusting the rear drum brakes.

 

[5sfe91]

A hardware kit might help if its needed

 

[eljefino]

Coworker had all kinds of issues with front vibe brakes dragging. So yes on the hardware kit, proper lube, etc.

 

[wallyuwl]

Thanks guys.

The new calipers come with hardware, so I should be good there.

Should I do wheel bearings or tie rods (or anything else), or not worry about those things if everything seems fine? Or should I just check them (I'm not sure how reliable the wiggling the tire method of checking those is) and replace if needed? Anyone know for sure if this is a hub type bearing or not in this car?

 

[mechtech2]

Wheel bearings? Tough job in the driveway!.

Right now, with the car on the ground, have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth rapidly while you look underneath at what should be moving. There should be no play, or delay at the tie rod ends. All wiggle motion should translate into motion at the wheels.
Jack the corner up with the wheel on. Hold at 12 and 6 and wiggle hard. Then 9 and 3 and do the same. This is an additional test for wheel bearings and tie rod ends. Don't forget that tie rods have INNER ends. 80% it is the outers that go bad, though.

OK, now your job is the brakes. After dissassembly, CLEAN the mounting surface of the hub. Scrape rust off and wire brush it so it is flat with NO bumps. A little anti sieze or grease is then applied.
Even though your calipers are 'new', check them for proper lube on the sliding pins. Buy a small pack for $1.
Clean your rotors with spray brake cleaner, then Dawn dishwashing soap and water, followed by a good water rinse.
Remember, this is YOUR car, and a few extra minutes are worth it!
Paint the hub hat or vents if you like to attenuate rust. Keep it off of the rotor face.

 

[mechtech2]

BTW, good advice about also checking the rears, and at least cleaning and lubing them.

 

[wallyuwl]

Thanks Mechtech. I got some lube for the pins and will definitely clean everything as you suggested. The rear brakes were checked, cleaned, and adjusted about two months ago (I know better than to mess with drum brakes and screw something up - I saw them though and they have 3-4 mm left on the shoes, depending on the spot).

For greasing the hub, just use regular grease?

I think I'll do the wiggle tests and have an idea if anything is bad. But I also need to get the tires rotated and balanced after I do the brakes and oil change, so I'll have that shop do a general safety check on the front end. I'm pretty sure from looking online at parts that the bearings are not part of the whole hub assembly with this vehicle. So, in this case, it is OK to get a bit of wiggle from the wiggle test for the bearings, right?

I am getting a bit of steering wheel vibration while stopping from high speeds, but I think it is just the rotors being bad (only does it with brakes engaged). It has gotten worse as the rotors have.

 

[eljefino]

Your desire to do bearings stems from the days when they fell out with the rotors. You have a sealed unit now and should find the brakes silly easy.

I would not accept any play in the bearings or tie rod ends. I like to grab the actual tie rod and twist it back and forth, if the end is loose it will twist real easy. (The inner tie rod end has very little twist resistance even when new.) Also do the old shake-the-wheel at 3 & 9 and 6 & 12 oclock.

 

[mechtech2]

wallyuwl - Brake vibration can also be drums out of round, not just always the rotors. Just be aware.

When I said grease the hub, I was referring to the place where the rotor seats. Only a LITTLE grease or anti-seize film here. The purpose is to allow removal later, and stop corrosion.
Also use a bit on the face of the rotor 'top hat' to the wheel.

If you have greasable and adjustable front wheel bearings, use high temp wheel bearing grease for disc brakes. Anybody's is fine.
Most cars nowadays have sealed non adjustable bearings.
If you can percieve a looseness, they are gone.

 

[wallyuwl]

Thanks guys. Just trying to square things away before doing the job. It's been a while since I've done brakes, and I've only done them once before.

 

[cp3]

I'm not familiar with the brakes on the Vibe but I would assume they have the caliper bracket that holds the pads. Make sure the small stainless steel clips are clean, if not replaced as well as the area underneath. Some brake cleaner and an old tooth brush work well. Also, been told a small shot of grease in this area will help with brake squeal....I hope. Unfortunately this was passed along since I've done the brakes and now sound very similar to a city bus!
Maybe mechtech2 or eljefino could confirm for both of us....lol

 

[mechtech2]

Being a mechanic means cleaning every part you can, and then lubing it as necessary.
General common sense will tell you if a part is to far gone to reuse.