2002 Sequoia (may buy one).

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krismoriah72

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2002 Toyota Sequoia popped up on my radar this morning locally. They are asking $3K obo. 255K miles.

Have seen lots of reports of 400K+ easily doable.

As far as i can tell i need to look at the frame really good, and try to see if/when timing belt was done.

Other issues i have read about are radiator and possibly undersized front brakes?

Alternators seem to be an issue, this one lists new alternator, ice cold ac, and new tires and brakes.

Car is listed as a daily driver, and they are looking for Toyota minivan. Facebook profile looks legit with 3 younger kids.

If all goes well will try for $2500 and see if they will meet in the middle.

Color is white, its a Limited. Im guessing that just means gold badges and leather? Says 4wd in the ad.

Anything else to look for? Good Deal?
 
Last edited:
skyactiv said:
I know in WV, your turning the steering wheel more than any other state. Tires, brakes and steering components wear out faster vs Ohio vehicles.
It needs a good inspection.

Why not dump an extra $53K and get a new one? https://www.toyotawest.com/new-Columbus-2020-Toyota-Sequoia-TRD+Sport-5TDBY5G12LS180127
With 10K down, 0% interest and a little haggling, your at $1194.00 a month at 36 months.
Click to expand...

Ad says new tires and brakes.. not really trying to dump an extra $53K... just another tow rig.. my 2003 Suburban is good but a Sequoia looks like an upgrade. Plus i can probably sell my 'burb for $3K.
 
Would Sequoia be an upgrade to an '03 Burb? A 4.7L iForce was a nice motor in its day but I'm not sure it grunts out like whatever is in your Burb. Not sure if the suspension is softer or not.
 
We have an '01 Tundra. The V8 is real easy on oil and is a long runner. I am just shy of 200K.
I put a set of Bilsteins and good rubber on after I got it. Runs like new.
Everybody wants my truck. They can't have it.

Good luck.
 
I maintain an 02 tundra for a friend. Outstanding vehicle from a durability and reliability perspective.

Starter is under the intake and was a $875 repair. A "going thru" of new brakes, rotors, drums, calipers, pads/shoes, diff and transfer fluid and axle seals was a chunk of change.

Doing yearly OC with M1 [AE]P; about 250K, no consumption between 12K changes. I believe you might want to research the transmission; i saw @ one time when they fail, they fail miserably. Been doing D+F w/ Maxlife; pan has a drain plug.
 
Good truck, you covered the basics. Check frame very carefully for rust (use a ball peen hammer, NOT your eyes. They rot from the inside). Front caliper's are a fixed design and the pad retaining pins love to rust in place. Caliper's are not crazy expensive.

Get history on the t-belt, it's not a difficult job but annoying. The alternator is, thankfully it's been done. Yes, the starter is buried under the intake but I've only ever replaced one Toyota V8 starter in my career and it wasn't all that bad.
 
I would expect a 250k to need a good chunk of preventative maintenance before ever reaching 300-400k.

Things like bushings, suspension components, hoses, belts, idler pulleys, steering stuff like tie rod ends usually like to go around that mileage. Unlikely that all are failing or will need replaced at the same time, but do look over the condition of these items. Just be careful you're not buying a vehicle someone is selling just because they don't want to put money into it. Most high mileage vehicles I've owned have needed a good bit of work around 200-250k to keep them on the road as a reliable daily driver.
 
92saturnsl2 said:
I would expect a 250k to need a good chunk of preventative maintenance before ever reaching 300-400k.

Things like bushings, suspension components, hoses, belts, idler pulleys, steering stuff like tie rod ends usually like to go around that mileage. Unlikely that all are failing or will need replaced at the same time, but do look over the condition of these items. Just be careful you're not buying a vehicle someone is selling just because they don't want to put money into it. Most high mileage vehicles I've owned have needed a good bit of work around 200-250k to keep them on the road as a reliable daily driver.
Click to expand...

I agree.

I have done the same with my 03 Suburban.. bought it from a buddy that couldnt afford to drive it daily and fix things as needed on top of it. I have replaced and fixed everything that he neglected. I have probably put another $1500 on top of what i paid him.

I asked the woman selling about the timing belt... she didnt know what that was...so im going to look at it tomorrow.. im guessing that it will need alot of preventative maintenence on my end... just have to see if it has good bones.
 
krismoriah72 said:
I asked the woman selling about the timing belt... she didnt know what that was...so im going to look at it tomorrow.. im guessing that it will need alot of preventative maintenence on my end... just have to see if it has good bones.
Click to expand...

Timing belt, that's a biggie on those high mileage engines. That's what usually puts older 3-4th owner vehicles in the graveyard. But if you do mechanic work yourself, none of these things are really that big an issue. Parts are reasonably cheap on these older vehicles.

I get a lot of flak from family and friends for buying older cars and proceeding to have to do work on them almost immediately after buying.. "Why did you buy a car that needs work.?" Well because I liked the car and with a few hundred bucks (often less) and a couple weekends of my time I have a car I don't have to worry about breaking down and will run as long as I want it to aside from some freak failure like a transmission.
 
I have a 2001 with 160k and its been great. Most of the things that will need attention have been mentioned already. Doing the timing belt isn't difficult, but does take a bit of time. The only thing I would caution is the transmission, in the 2000-2002 Tundra/Sequoias the torrington bearing that rides on the 4th gear planetary is undersized and when it fails, it fails catastrophically. Some people had them fail very early on with not too many miles on them, others have 200 or 300k+ miles without issue. One of the big factors in that is whether or not they towed anything with OD on, which is a big no-no on these. The 2003-2004 transmissions are a direct replacement and don't have this issue.

The only recurring issue I have had on mine is the rear hatch handle, which don't seem to last more than a few years. When it fails you have to climb in and remove the back door trim, panels, and know where to pull to get the door open so you can replace the (cheap and readily available) replacement handle. Its a bit of a hassle but no huge deal.

I towed a 3000lb boat all over between Tennessee and Canada (overdrive off for mercy on the transmission) for a number of years and while the 4.7 is no major powerhouse by todays standards, as far as I'm concerned it did just dandy and I've towed heavier loads with no complaints.

Other than that, its been great and I'll keep it until it dies. It mostly just sits in the garage now and gets driven when we need to haul something or if it snows.
 
Update: I did not buy it. I was expecting the frame to be the reason why i wouldnt get it.. but the frame was nearly immaculate. There are tons of youtube videos with 1st gen Tundras and Sequoias with rotted frames.. so i was surprised.

Other issues on these 1st gens-
Rear Wheel Seals- This one was seeping on both sides. Owner had no idea. I think this is a fairly hard job.
Front Brakes- Calipers and pads are undersized up until i think 03/04 So the fix is to upgrade to 04+ calipers and pads.
White Paint- chalky dull.

On top of that there was the signs of bad ball joints up front, possibly other issues as the front tire was nearly bald on the inside.

In my opinion this one had been neglected for years but was still doing its chores as a daily driver.

I will keep my eye out for a cream puff 04+ i think.
 
krismoriah72 said:
2002 Toyota Sequoia popped up on my radar this morning locally. They are asking $3K obo. 255K miles.

Have seen lots of reports of 400K+ easily doable.

As far as i can tell i need to look at the frame really good, and try to see if/when timing belt was done.

Other issues i have read about are radiator and possibly undersized front brakes?

Alternators seem to be an issue, this one lists new alternator, ice cold ac, and new tires and brakes.

Car is listed as a daily driver, and they are looking for Toyota minivan. Facebook profile looks legit with 3 younger kids.

If all goes well will try for $2500 and see if they will meet in the middle.

Color is white, its a Limited. Im guessing that just means gold badges and leather? Says 4wd in the ad.

Anything else to look for? Good Deal?
Click to expand...

look at what is holding the fake raised body work. My neighbors runs strong but all the mounting points for plastic rotted off car.
 
Assuming it is the same driveline as the 1 Gen tundra (I had an 06).

- tow rating seemed optimistic, especially considering anemic brakes.
- my 4.7 was rowdy (loud) at 3k rpm to make tow power
- the first transmission, through 2005, is known to have a weakness if you tow in OD (4th)
- the rear axle bearings are cartridge units, they are not bathed in diff oil. The replacement is a little involved

however, if you know what you are getting, they are robust, solid, and reliable. My tundra, used within its limits, was a terrific truck and very trouble free. these easily make up many miles if used within their window. They tow typical boats just fine, heavy loads like a TT not as well. If you need to tow moderately heavy, the ‘burb is simply a better platform.

that is a great price. If you can diy the repairs it would be worth twice as much. You need a press to do the rear bearings…. I think I paid $1300 per side (all 3 owners of my tundra towed).
 
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