Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you had been using Pyb you wouldn't have that varnish but you choose to completely avoid top products?
short answer Valvoline was Good oil and cheap at the time compared to synthetic, the price difference was around 2 dino quarts to 1 syn.
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Not bad at all! The oil consumption it has now is very typical.
Was the timing belt ever changed?
Just now annoyed about the quart every month but will keep taking notes on the oil since having the pump, oil pan gasket, and sensor replaced.
Timing belt has been replace the same time the water pump was replaced. No rough idling or revving, since every 20K I poured down the tank STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner 5.25-oz and now will use Redline SI-1 once a year.
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
I could never do that OCI... I would expect a lot of that "patina" would be avoidable with 4-5K max OCI with VWB... depending on the highway use... and a 14 yo car at 110K, I do not think it is getting a lot of big HW miles.
I would keep to 5K with the MS5 and go with a full Syn if you want that 10K interval
It doesn't get that much HW miles, which is why I'm now going with 5K OCIs with synthetics. From my oil stash it will first have Mobil 1 HM, then Mobil 1, and Castrol. After using up all my Mobil 1 and Castrol it will be 2 years then I'll use the other syn oils in my stash (Castrol Gold with Ti, Pennz Ultra, German Castrol according to "born on date" on the jugs)
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Not bad...
But I'm curious too about the never call on pennzoil products..
I've had good runs with SOPUS products in general...
Got born into when/with Pennzoil contained wax.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Hi. My name is varnish.
My thoughts exactly. PYB at those intervals would have kept it spotless.
Perhaps...or the reason why I have varnish is that I used 10w-40 instead of 10w-30, so it being thicker it stayed on the metal longer. Which is why it is a clean engine with major varnish.
Originally Posted By: VNTS
These pics show me that 5K mile oil changes on dino are realistic, and 8K is pushing it.
I have a 2.4 turbo and I had the valve cover off at 100K miles, I ran from records, Amsoil 0w-30, Mobil1 5w-30, PP and PU 5w-30 for 6-7K intevals, you could eat off the valve train and ditto the Valve cover.
I wonder about the condition of the ring packs when you sea the varnish like that.
Also I change the PCV valves on my 2.4's every 20K.
Agreed on conventional oil being solid for 5k and after that you're pushing it. I wonder about the o-rings too and why I am going with Mobil 1 HM for the first three 5K OCIs. HM should also help with the consumption. I change the PCV valve every 3 years since its only like 4 bucks. Also within the first year I had the car, received a postcard from Chrysler in the mail saying that the pcv valve had to be replace for free for being faulty.
I was corrected, yes 2.0 Dodge engines are made in "trenton" and wasn't a Mitshu engine, so it should last another 200k.
Yes, engine still feels good. Everything else with the car is being replace one at a time as they fail or according to milage.
If you had been using Pyb you wouldn't have that varnish but you choose to completely avoid top products?
short answer Valvoline was Good oil and cheap at the time compared to synthetic, the price difference was around 2 dino quarts to 1 syn.
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Not bad at all! The oil consumption it has now is very typical.
Was the timing belt ever changed?
Just now annoyed about the quart every month but will keep taking notes on the oil since having the pump, oil pan gasket, and sensor replaced.
Timing belt has been replace the same time the water pump was replaced. No rough idling or revving, since every 20K I poured down the tank STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner 5.25-oz and now will use Redline SI-1 once a year.
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
I could never do that OCI... I would expect a lot of that "patina" would be avoidable with 4-5K max OCI with VWB... depending on the highway use... and a 14 yo car at 110K, I do not think it is getting a lot of big HW miles.
I would keep to 5K with the MS5 and go with a full Syn if you want that 10K interval
It doesn't get that much HW miles, which is why I'm now going with 5K OCIs with synthetics. From my oil stash it will first have Mobil 1 HM, then Mobil 1, and Castrol. After using up all my Mobil 1 and Castrol it will be 2 years then I'll use the other syn oils in my stash (Castrol Gold with Ti, Pennz Ultra, German Castrol according to "born on date" on the jugs)
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Not bad...
But I'm curious too about the never call on pennzoil products..
I've had good runs with SOPUS products in general...
Got born into when/with Pennzoil contained wax.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Hi. My name is varnish.
My thoughts exactly. PYB at those intervals would have kept it spotless.
Perhaps...or the reason why I have varnish is that I used 10w-40 instead of 10w-30, so it being thicker it stayed on the metal longer. Which is why it is a clean engine with major varnish.
Originally Posted By: VNTS
These pics show me that 5K mile oil changes on dino are realistic, and 8K is pushing it.
I have a 2.4 turbo and I had the valve cover off at 100K miles, I ran from records, Amsoil 0w-30, Mobil1 5w-30, PP and PU 5w-30 for 6-7K intevals, you could eat off the valve train and ditto the Valve cover.
I wonder about the condition of the ring packs when you sea the varnish like that.
Also I change the PCV valves on my 2.4's every 20K.
Agreed on conventional oil being solid for 5k and after that you're pushing it. I wonder about the o-rings too and why I am going with Mobil 1 HM for the first three 5K OCIs. HM should also help with the consumption. I change the PCV valve every 3 years since its only like 4 bucks. Also within the first year I had the car, received a postcard from Chrysler in the mail saying that the pcv valve had to be replace for free for being faulty.
I was corrected, yes 2.0 Dodge engines are made in "trenton" and wasn't a Mitshu engine, so it should last another 200k.
Yes, engine still feels good. Everything else with the car is being replace one at a time as they fail or according to milage.