2-cycle oil as a fuel add in 4-cycle engine

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Sounds like a plan, and as long as you are sure you can't lock up the engine you should be fine. I'd be interested in hearing your results. Is there anyway of hooking up this rig and actually driving the car? Again as long as you can't lock that engine up I see no harm from doing it.

JMO,
Frank D
 
I could run a hose from the intake to my windshield washer fluid reservoir and put a filter in it to trap sediment.

I used a small diameter hose that I figured wouldn't be capable of flowing enough fluid to hydrolock the engine. I think it's 1/16" ID or so. I did about half a gallon with no problems, then filled the jug up again and just shoved the hose into it. I noticed it was getting sucked down awfully quickly, so I pulled out the hose and revved the engine a bit. I did hear one slight thunk that may have been darned close to a full cylinder. I probably should have parked the car on level ground to do this, since it was on the low side where I heard the thunk.

It smoked and steamed pretty good for a while, and I took it out and ran it quite hard for a dozen miles or so. I don't think any damage was done, and it definitely seemed to have far less detonation, even though I have a 250:1 mix of oil in it right now.

If the piston looks any better I may repeat the process again with an even smaller diameter tube.
 
chevrofreak, all I see is quick cleaners and I'd only expect them to work on freshly formed loose carbon. Does continuous treat do anything to your baked on carbon? Is there enough access for you to score the carbon with a screwdriver to give an edge for the treatments to work from?

Googling I see plenty of claims that 2 cycle oil reduces octane. I see mixed claims for MMO though they might not be separating the CC cleaning which lowers octane requirements from the light oil which lowers octane. LUCL claims to raise octane. Redline SI-1 doesn't claim to increase octane but claims to reduce octane requirements by 2 numbers which is unimpressive if numbers are the same as (octane points).

Maybe that's why greasy slop is greasy.
 
Like I said make sure you don't hydro-lock that engine. I think I would go with a smaller diameter hose if you decide to repeat the procedure. I had pretty good luck with a spray bottle filled with water in the carb days, tried it on early efi systems with the spray bottle and had no problems either. Not sure how a newer efi system would like water sprayed into the air intake.

It might also be safe to say that, my engines combustion chambers were fairly clean because of regular doses of carb/injector cleaner and MMO used in the gas or an inverse oiler.

Frank D
 
I did another cleaning about an hour ago. I screwed something into the end of the tube then poked a smaller hole in the side. Even a tiny hole sucks a lot of water. I feel like this second cleaning may have done even more, and having my head stuffed under the hood allowed me to hear that there's a vacuum leak coming from a cracked hose.

I want to build something with a 12v electric pump and a solenoid controlled mist nozzle to shove up the intake tube, or perhaps permanently mount in the elbow of the intake tube spraying directly into the throttle body.

Detonation is almost non-existent now, even at a 250:1 ratio of ST TCW3.
 
If you plan on something permanent for continous use read up on water injectors and what you will need to add to them for the upcoming winter. I see you're in Montana and I am pretty sure mixing windshield washer AF isn't going to cut it in the extreme cold.

Frank D
 
Well, I just pulled that easy front right spark plug out and WOW, I can actually see metal! The piston has never looked this clean since I've owned it, and I've had that plug out probably 6 times in the last month to see if the things I've been using have had any effect. The top of the piston is actually almost clean now.

I wonder if using hot water vs the cold water I used before made the difference?
 
Hot water is probably better for the engine. When I use hot denatured water to clean the engine it seems to take it with less hesitation.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Well, I just pulled that easy front right spark plug out and WOW, I can actually see metal! The piston has never looked this clean since I've owned it, and I've had that plug out probably 6 times in the last month to see if the things I've been using have had any effect. The top of the piston is actually almost clean now.

I wonder if using hot water vs the cold water I used before made the difference?


Glad things worked out! I never used hot water, it might help.

Frank D
 
Originally Posted By: cosynthetics
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Ive been putting 1-2 oz of amsoil saber outboard as an additive in my 91 BMW 318i, and it runs great, seemingly slightly stronger!

JMH


Per how many gal fill? I just picked up some saber outboard today. Gonna run in the 540.


Whoa! an oldie...

I put an ounce or two in per tank (or 3/4 tank, which is usually about when I fill up). he 318 fuel filler flap is liquid-tight, so I use a small plastic laboratory dropper/pipette to force the flap open, for clean filling.

I keep the small amsoil saber container and the pipette in a paper towel, closed in a large plastic folger's coffee container.

Works great.

JMH
 
AS for a measuring/dispensing container...I use a old Lucas UCL quart to dispense the 2C into one of those small purple LubeGuard PSF additive containers. Exactly 4oz, I either partly fill it for 10G or fully fill for > 10G of fuel.

As for mpg accuracy, I get within .5mpg all the time, excepting winter gas and new tires or a big change in driving cycle. So, I think the difference with or without 2C should be detectable.
 
It's detectable. When I was running fuel injector cleaner in my 99 LeSabre for a tank, the tank before was run without the 2-cycle oil. So about 1000 miles in total on the highway. My mileage was noticeably off according to both my calculations and my ScanGauge. About 1-1.5 mpg on the highway, no other changes to the setup besides the lack of 2-cycle oil for a tank and the addition of fuel injector cleaner on otherwise straight gas for a second tank.

I likely had a confound in there, but it's a step in the right direction.

The dose this car likes seems to be about 1.5 oz in 15 gallons of gas. More than that and my mileage peaks at 29 highway. I usually see 32-33 highway.
 
I bought some Spartan-brand 2-cycle oil from a grocery store near me for $2/quart, the bottle was kind of dusty. Now it's all on the clearance rack - still $2/quart. Go Spartans!
 
Next tank I will try for the first time TCW-3 oil instead Lucas UCL at same ratio, I wont see the difference.
 
Originally Posted By: smithph
Is there any significant difference between using a quality TCW-3 2-cycle oil and Lucas UCL? Has anyone done any tests comparing the two?


I will do now I 'll tell you the difference
 
The first impression compared to lucas is that the engine is more smooth, maybe this oil keep better oil film at high temperature than lucas
 
I think my car was smoother on the 2 stroke as well, but I'm getting better mileage using the Lucas. I'm seeing just a tick over 19mpg in the city. Though, I haven't used the 2 stroke oil since I did that combustion chamber cleaning. Maybe I should switch back for several tanks to compare.
 
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