2.7L SludgeBucket at 85K miles advice

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Hello All,

1st post here. I just learned the 2.7L motor has a design issue which allows greater than average sludge buildup which eventually leads to engine failure. This is happening far too often for comfort, usually resulting in a blown motor under 100K miles.

My 2001 Dodge Intrepid SE (with a 2.7L) engine has 85,000 miles on it and continues to run great. I bought it from my dad at 60k miles. It was his company car purchased new and oil and maintenance was performed regularly. Unfortunately, I hear the sludge problem also often occurs to people who changed the oil regularly.

Doing some research, I think the best thing for me do do is flush using Auto-RX (3k miles for cleaning), and then once that is done switch to AMSOIL synthetic.

I am thinking the Auto-RX is the safest way to go because it doesn't remove the sludge too quick (which may result in blocked ports), and is also proven and tested to work thoroughly. AMSOIL is rated to be an excellent oil and does not require frequent oil changes.

Would this be a safe thing to do with my Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L to avoid the problems soo many are having with this engine? To me, this makes logical sense, but I wanted to get the input from you 'professionals' as I may be missing something.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Derek
 
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Some pertinent links:

Rx? Does It Work? I Need Help!

Kinda Frustrated..Tried Rx..What Now?

Auto-Rx Slays a Sludge Monster

2002 Chrysler 2.7

2.7 Oil Sludge Problems

Rebuilding the Chrysler 2.7
 
Welcome. My father has the same car/year as you. He bought it new. It currently has 117K on it. There have been no problems to date. The only thing replaced has been the plugs (and tires of course). He's done 5-6K OCI with Conklin Convoy oil since new. He even runs a K&N drop-in!
 
Yes these 2.7s are perfect candidates for A-Rx'ing. I'd do it twice and run a maintenance dose with subsequent oil changes.
 
Inspect the engine for sludge if possible. That'll give you a definite answer to some questions and will help you decide on the actions needed.

Frequent oil changes are a must. The quote "sludge problem also often occurs to people who changed the oil regularly" is an opinion not to be believed in.
Sorry, I find some people think that regular 10k OCIs and running 2 quarts low prior to regular top offs is 'well maintained'. NOT!

If no sludge, then regular 3k OR 3mo OCIs, whichever comes 1st, should be seriously practiced. A synthetic is also an option. Whether you want to use an additive or not is for you to decide. I don't see the need for an product in a honestly maintained vehicle with quality oils and reasonable intervals.

Summary:
Change the oil/filter frequently
Use a high quality name brand oil
Use a synthetic if in your budget
Monitor oil consumption, top off, and keep full always
Flush the cooling system and change thermostat
Use a coolant stop leak
Make sure engine is in tiptop tune(plugs, filters, other fluids...)
Inspect/replace the PCV or however the case is vented

Study sludge causes:
Short trips---condensation and moisture buildup
Faulty PCV---moisture not be taken out
Coolant leaks--UOA once to rule out coolant/oil mixing
Hot engine--cooling system maintenance
Hot oil--oil level, type, and cooling

Additive preventatives:
Maintenance doses of Lubegard, AutoRx, LC20, MMO, and Rislone should be considered. If no sludge, don't bother and put money to 3k/3mo OCIs.

Schaeffers Clean & Cool, and RMI-25 should be considered as coolant additives. If cooling system, radiator, pump... show no buildup, fresh antifreeze and distilled water 50:50 is good enough.

If there is room(break out tape measure), use an oversized oil filter. This will increase oil capacity and oil cooling through the filter. Use an oil filter cooling collar!

Because of your location, Maine, I doubt that you will have heat related oil sludge/coking issues. But, you could have multiple short trip moisture causing sludge, and antifreeze leaks that can ruin an oil quickly.

Even if everything checks out perfectly and clean, replacing the timing chain at 100k adds peace of mind!
 
Do an Auto-RX treatment, and extend each phase to 3,000 miles, just make sure to top off with oil as necessary. One more may be necessary, but for now go with one treatment.

After that, try Amsoil XL for 5,000-7,500 miles, but if that is too costly, go with Super Tech Synthetic for 3,000 miles.
 
Regular OCIs have been performed on this car since new. Since 60K miles, regular 3k OCIs performed but usually by 'Prompto'. I know alot of you guys change your own oil, but I am in cold Maine and prefer to have it done and is worth the $18 .. or is it?? Not sure the quality of oil and filters Prompto uses .. can you any of you voug?

I want to do the AutoRx treatment anyways (can't hurt) and go to AMSOIL. My concerns are that many many complaints I have read is that even with reular 3k OCIs with this 2.7L lead to failure (for some).
 
Quote:


Regular OCIs have been performed on this car since new. Since 60K miles, regular 3k OCIs performed but usually by 'Prompto'. I know alot of you guys change your own oil, but I am in cold Maine and prefer to have it done and is worth the $18 .. or is it?? Not sure the quality of oil and filters Prompto uses .. can you any of you voug?

I want to do the AutoRx treatment anyways (can't hurt) and go to AMSOIL. My concerns are that many many complaints I have read is that even with reular 3k OCIs with this 2.7L lead to failure (for some).




Derek - what you've read is true but bear in mind that this doesn't happen to all of them. There's over 1.5 million 2.7s out there but you're reading about the several hundred or or few thousand that have failed. Even that's too many - they shouldn't fail at all - but there are hundreds of thousands of these engines that run trouble-free.

I've got 178K on mine (see my signature) and I've never had any trouble. I did 3K mile OCI with various dino oils (GTX, Quaker State, Maxlife HM) up to around 110K miles or so, then started using various GrpIII synthetics. Even with GrpIII synthetics, my UOAs indicate that 4500 - 5000 miles is about "it" for OCI in this engine.

I did 3 ARX cycles last year. It's cheap insurance. I also ran LC in between ARX cycles, and did 2 or 3 LC flushes. I have no real evidence that any of these treatments really did anything but I suspect I may have had a clean engine to start with.

Let me know if you have any questions about the 2.7.

Phil
 
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