2 6l90's toast close to the same mileage?

Looking for some transmission replacement advice. I have a 2012 GMC 2500 and I, like Newman88, didn't change my transmission fluid till 80k ish miles the first time and it just failed on me now after I just hit 156k. Mine is the 6L90 transmission too and I read this article on how remanufactured transmissions for our trucks are better replacements than getting it rebuilt https://transmissions-101.constantcontactsites.com/6l90-transmission. I'm not too technically inclined with this stuff can someone tell me if there's any stock in this or should I just get my transmission rebuilt locally. For a basic rebuilt near me its looking to be around 3k
 
That “article” isn’t much more than a poorly written sales piece, I’m not sure how much I’d depend on it for technical advice.
 
Looking for some transmission replacement advice. I have a 2012 GMC 2500 and I, like Newman88, didn't change my transmission fluid till 80k ish miles the first time and it just failed on me now after I just hit 156k. Mine is the 6L90 transmission too and I read this article on how remanufactured transmissions for our trucks are better replacements than getting it rebuilt https://transmissions-101.constantcontactsites.com/6l90-transmission. I'm not too technically inclined with this stuff can someone tell me if there's any stock in this or should I just get my transmission rebuilt locally. For a basic rebuilt near me its looking to be around 3k
A lot depends on the reputation of your local shop. There are good shops and bad shops just like their are good remans and lousy remans. How close are you to Texas? Clinebarger on this forum knows his stuff.
 
Rebuilt vs Remanufactured is just playing with words when it comes to transmissions. Larger outfits will have equipment to machine the Pump Body & Pump Cover, But this savings is not passed on to you. Where I replace the Pump Cover & Body with new OE Delco as the Pressure Regulator Valve & Bore are high wear areas in the 6LxxE units.

*A Sonnax "Zip Kit" will fix the Valve Body 95% of the time.
*I can clean & reuse the TECHM most of the time unless preexisting issues were already present. PC Solenoid stuck off & Pressure Switch DTC's are common when the converter comes apart & clogs the sump filter.

The rest of the unit needs to be be cleaned & inspected, If any parts are worn....They will need to be replaced as none of it's repairable.

If the converter did come apart.....The radiator & auxiliary cooler need replaced, It's impossible to know 100% that all the metal got removed with a flush. Besides.....The TCC Lining material can stick like glue to the internal cooler passages decreasing the efficiency of the coolers.

Watch out for low quotes to get you in the door....Tear your truck all apart, Then get a phone call to ask for more $$.

If your near me (Ft Worth Texas)....I'd be happy to take care of this. Otherwise.....A GM SRTA unit might be the best avenue as they have a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty.

I give my units a 3 year/Unlimited mileage warranty excluding the TECHM. If I replace the TECHM during overhaul....It has a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty through GM & I'll eat the labor during that period.

If one can't give at least 3 years....What good is it??
 
Ok so sorry to jump into this old conversation, but I found this site yesterday after searching which oil to put in my 2012 Suburban that I am now putting a third transmission into (original, reman 10/17, and blew reman on 2/19).

So my question is, is it me or is it this transmission. I live in AZ so it is not uncommon for the temperature to be 120* or more. Due to this when I bought the truck in 2013, I put a transmission cooler on it. Drilled and welded pan so that I could change fluid every other oil change. I always have it full of kids and family, but no heavy towing. First time the transmission blew there was no codes thrown nothing. Just started to get a hesitation around gears 4-5 for like 1 day, then everything dropped out, no move. This time going over Hoover Dam felt the same hesitation, lost gears 5-6 completely, got it back to AZ, the next day couldn't get the car up my driveway (just 4 months outside of the unlimited mile warranty).

This truck only has 160,000 miles on it, and has gone through two transmissions. WTH. @clinebarger you recommended some tuning modifications, should I have that done? My reman arrives in 2 days, how do I do those changes? Are there any downsides to those modifications?
 
Is it the converter that failed both times?? I can't give accurate advice without knowing what failed. If the converters are failing this fast.....You NEED a Billet Front-Twin Disc converter.

Turning the AFM off in the calibration will by itself prolong converter clutch life, Tuning out the PWM (Controlled Slip Apply) will even further extend it. There are no downsides to this other than a 1-2 mpg loss.
I can walk you through doing this with HP-Tuners.

What outfit are you using for your Reman's.

There are people that can tear up a 6LxxE unit no matter how well it's built, But you would have a history of this in other vehicles as well unless they were underpowered econobox's???? The sad thing is......I could have built you a indestructible 4L80E, Installed it, Wired it, Tuned it, Cooler line changes, & Driveshaft/s for close to what you spent on 2 6L80E units & DARE you to break it with a 5.3L 1500 Suburban
 
That's a great question, I wish I knew the answer. As I said with the first one there were no codes thrown at all even took it to Chevy dealer and they said that was a first. I used Street Smart Transmissions and they shipped out the reman ( I did this mainly for the warranty, local shops would only give 12 month, 12k miles). This time it didn't throw codes at first After about 10 miles on my way back over the dam the truck got stuck in gear, lights went on for stabilitrack, traction control, and the check engine light, and I couldn't go over about 35 mph. Turned off vehicle, let it rest for an hour and turned it back on got no 5th or 6th gear but it would go, since I was 200+ miles from home I babied it home. My ODB couldn't read the code, but took it to my mechanic and he was able to pull a code, said I needed a rebuild.

I just ordered my second from Street Smart (they gave me great deal since I was only out of warranty about 5 months). The local shops here quoted me from $2,700 - $3,800 and were only offering 1-2 year warranties. The one shop that offered a 3 year was only willing to give 30,000 miles.... wtheck. Unfortunately since I have to send the core off, I won't find out what killed it.

I have a lead foot so maybe that is why. I've had a couple manual cars in which I went through clutches pretty quickly, but those are easy repairs. Had an expedition for about 3 years and sold it. This the longest I have had one vehicle, so maybe I'm one of those that can tear through a transmission and this is the first time I've had a vehicle long enough to do so. Rest assured though I will sell this one before I get to the end of the 3 year warranty on this transmission :(
 
So I don't have Clines experience, but on the truck and RV boards there lots of 6L90Es that are that 300,000 mile point with the recommended 45,000 mile severe service interval. That is there reason I put the deep pan with drain plug on my truck so I can keep the fluid fresh.
While I agree 200K is good service I bet he could have done better with more regular changes.
 
I practice, preach, and recommend more AT fluid/filter changes than marketed by the automakers.

It failed so time to buy a new truck from them.
 
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