$2,000 for Valve Cover on Corolla
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Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: JTK
This is a definite concern with today's OHC timing chain equipped vehicles. There's many linear feet of area, holding oil back with a bead of RTV. Maintenance free until it costs you $2000 because of an oil leak.
Yup! Customer cannot win one way or another.
Fact is: t-belt engines are simple and noise-free, but requires periodic servicing (depending on complexity of the arrangements, it's mostly labour costs). Also: most experienced tech would also service the wear-n-tear items such as idler tensioner (bearing), water pump, etc. before releasing the vehicle out on the road again.
On the other hand: given the OHC arrangements (cam phasers, twin cam 4 valves/cyl, etc. chain drive has become so complicated that anything can go wrong (and it's not easy to reach in and deal with the problem). Cover leak is normal, so are many other things that can also go wrong (due to design complexities).
People whine and whine about t-belt servicing costs, etc. and now they come back and whine and whine about chain-driven engined cars servicing costs, etc.
Just like my locals: simply ride a bicycle instead: less things to break.
Q.
I watched an entire fleet of Ford SOHC cars and vans wind up gigantic mileage (300,000+ was normal, 15,000+ hours were nothing unusual), and not a single one had any timing chain problems. They didn't leak, either. (Nor does my 142,000-mile Crown Victoria.)
Originally Posted By: JTK
This is a definite concern with today's OHC timing chain equipped vehicles. There's many linear feet of area, holding oil back with a bead of RTV. Maintenance free until it costs you $2000 because of an oil leak.
Yup! Customer cannot win one way or another.
Fact is: t-belt engines are simple and noise-free, but requires periodic servicing (depending on complexity of the arrangements, it's mostly labour costs). Also: most experienced tech would also service the wear-n-tear items such as idler tensioner (bearing), water pump, etc. before releasing the vehicle out on the road again.
On the other hand: given the OHC arrangements (cam phasers, twin cam 4 valves/cyl, etc. chain drive has become so complicated that anything can go wrong (and it's not easy to reach in and deal with the problem). Cover leak is normal, so are many other things that can also go wrong (due to design complexities).
People whine and whine about t-belt servicing costs, etc. and now they come back and whine and whine about chain-driven engined cars servicing costs, etc.
Just like my locals: simply ride a bicycle instead: less things to break.
Q.
I watched an entire fleet of Ford SOHC cars and vans wind up gigantic mileage (300,000+ was normal, 15,000+ hours were nothing unusual), and not a single one had any timing chain problems. They didn't leak, either. (Nor does my 142,000-mile Crown Victoria.)
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Wow, and here I was thinking I was missing out on Toyota reliability by choosing my Focus.
Why? Nothing's yet been posted of any systemic unreliability of Toyos. Just a lot of posts about some conflicts between one highly questionable dealer (maybe two) and one owner with questions about what may be wrong with one car...so far.
Wow, and here I was thinking I was missing out on Toyota reliability by choosing my Focus.
Why? Nothing's yet been posted of any systemic unreliability of Toyos. Just a lot of posts about some conflicts between one highly questionable dealer (maybe two) and one owner with questions about what may be wrong with one car...so far.
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Originally Posted By: dishdude
You're all missing the point, OP hates the car. Life's too short to drive something you hate. Trade it and get something you enjoy!
No kidding... a 2011 Corolla LE with <100,000mi should be worth $7-8000.00 in good shape - sell it, take that and the $1000.00 or so the timing cover reseal cost and put it toward some thing you like better.
You're all missing the point, OP hates the car. Life's too short to drive something you hate. Trade it and get something you enjoy!
No kidding... a 2011 Corolla LE with <100,000mi should be worth $7-8000.00 in good shape - sell it, take that and the $1000.00 or so the timing cover reseal cost and put it toward some thing you like better.
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: smc733
Never had to add oil. I did have an issue with the serpentene belt slipping, but this was fixed when a bolt that wasn't replaced when the water pump was fixed.
Thanks for answering my questions.
This is my take on it. If I don't have to add oil, and it isn't making an awful mess in my garage, it can wait. If remediation gets down to "I wipe off excess oil film once a month", I can live with that. I can take the time to make a plan, and decide whether to trade it in, or just do it later if it gets worse.
This is more than an academic question for me, I have a 2010 Corolla. Like yours it is payed for. Unlike yours it has been 100% reliable for 162K miles, with nothing but maintenance and some safety recalls. Like you I don't love the interior and the handling is just meh. On the other hand, I love the transmission programming (can't say that about a rental Hyundai I drove), the reliability, the utility, and the economy. My current plan is to run it to 250K then sell it or trade it in.
Thanks for your reply. I agree with your approach, I was hoping to run this car to 200k before trading it in, and I also agree that the transmission programming is impeccable, I almost never feel a shift (I, too, can't say the same for my wife's Hyunda). The handling is dismal, though.
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: smc733
There's been a seepage under the car, but I assumed it was from the AC condensation (it's below the passenger's seat in the cabin, not under the hood). I will be checking it more carefully now and report back. The timing cover side of the engine does look "wet" as if something is leaking. I check the oil a few times throughout the OCI, and have never noticed it being low. Never had to add oil. I did have an issue with the serpentine belt slipping, but this was fixed when a bolt that wasn't replaced when the water pump was fixed.
When you say you don't have to add any oil between OCs...that would contradict everything we've read thus far...How many miles is your OCI? Regardless, it's hard to believe you have a serious oil leakage if you don't have to add any oil.
But to address this post:
"seepage" is what? drips? drops that remain on the driveway the next day? drops that leave a mess of spots on your driveway? THAT'S oil...
or...(something out of left field, I know)...
If they're drops that don't evaporate and are REDDISH in color, that's power steering fluid...a whole other issue...
Occasionally my PS leak leaves nickel-size drops that remain for weeks before disappearing that amounts to my having to add 2oz twice a year. My repair is a rubber mat under the car.
AC condensation is clear water that evaporates in an hour or two and leaves no telltale spots on your driveway.
I don't mean to be cruel, but surely you can tell the difference between water and oil.
On the engine block, wet areas that do not lead to drops under the car is "weepage" that might be easily dealt with by using HM oil with additives that restore sealing properties.
Sorry OP, but the more you post the more I'm reading a lot of vague descriptions of your observations and experiences....As a result you're getting a lot of very different courses of action to take. Nonetheless we'll do the best we can with the information you provide.
I'll try to give more detail now that I've been paying attention to what drips under the car over the last 24 hours. I do not have any oil spots in my garage or driveway. I used a paper towel yesterday to blot the drip after a long drive, and it was clearly just condensation water. It looks like this leaking the dealer alluded to is limited to just weeping for now. (This car has electronic power steering, so no fluid).
As far as my OCI, it used to be 5k, but I've pushed it to the book recommended 10k with the OEM Toyota synthetic oil and filter. I try to check the levels (and color) every few thousand miles throughout the OCI, and I have yet to notice any significant change in level (nothing to warrant adding oil).
Originally Posted By: smc733
Never had to add oil. I did have an issue with the serpentene belt slipping, but this was fixed when a bolt that wasn't replaced when the water pump was fixed.
Thanks for answering my questions.
This is my take on it. If I don't have to add oil, and it isn't making an awful mess in my garage, it can wait. If remediation gets down to "I wipe off excess oil film once a month", I can live with that. I can take the time to make a plan, and decide whether to trade it in, or just do it later if it gets worse.
This is more than an academic question for me, I have a 2010 Corolla. Like yours it is payed for. Unlike yours it has been 100% reliable for 162K miles, with nothing but maintenance and some safety recalls. Like you I don't love the interior and the handling is just meh. On the other hand, I love the transmission programming (can't say that about a rental Hyundai I drove), the reliability, the utility, and the economy. My current plan is to run it to 250K then sell it or trade it in.
Thanks for your reply. I agree with your approach, I was hoping to run this car to 200k before trading it in, and I also agree that the transmission programming is impeccable, I almost never feel a shift (I, too, can't say the same for my wife's Hyunda). The handling is dismal, though.
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: smc733
There's been a seepage under the car, but I assumed it was from the AC condensation (it's below the passenger's seat in the cabin, not under the hood). I will be checking it more carefully now and report back. The timing cover side of the engine does look "wet" as if something is leaking. I check the oil a few times throughout the OCI, and have never noticed it being low. Never had to add oil. I did have an issue with the serpentine belt slipping, but this was fixed when a bolt that wasn't replaced when the water pump was fixed.
When you say you don't have to add any oil between OCs...that would contradict everything we've read thus far...How many miles is your OCI? Regardless, it's hard to believe you have a serious oil leakage if you don't have to add any oil.
But to address this post:
"seepage" is what? drips? drops that remain on the driveway the next day? drops that leave a mess of spots on your driveway? THAT'S oil...
or...(something out of left field, I know)...
If they're drops that don't evaporate and are REDDISH in color, that's power steering fluid...a whole other issue...
Occasionally my PS leak leaves nickel-size drops that remain for weeks before disappearing that amounts to my having to add 2oz twice a year. My repair is a rubber mat under the car.
AC condensation is clear water that evaporates in an hour or two and leaves no telltale spots on your driveway.
I don't mean to be cruel, but surely you can tell the difference between water and oil.
On the engine block, wet areas that do not lead to drops under the car is "weepage" that might be easily dealt with by using HM oil with additives that restore sealing properties.
Sorry OP, but the more you post the more I'm reading a lot of vague descriptions of your observations and experiences....As a result you're getting a lot of very different courses of action to take. Nonetheless we'll do the best we can with the information you provide.
I'll try to give more detail now that I've been paying attention to what drips under the car over the last 24 hours. I do not have any oil spots in my garage or driveway. I used a paper towel yesterday to blot the drip after a long drive, and it was clearly just condensation water. It looks like this leaking the dealer alluded to is limited to just weeping for now. (This car has electronic power steering, so no fluid).
As far as my OCI, it used to be 5k, but I've pushed it to the book recommended 10k with the OEM Toyota synthetic oil and filter. I try to check the levels (and color) every few thousand miles throughout the OCI, and I have yet to notice any significant change in level (nothing to warrant adding oil).
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: dishdude
You're all missing the point, OP hates the car. Life's too short to drive something you hate. Trade it and get something you enjoy!
No kidding... a 2011 Corolla LE with div>
For the [censored] of it, I took the car to the $tealer$hip that I bought it from yesterday, just to test drive a Camry and see if maybe I want to think about trading up. Though trades are always less because of the middleman, they only wanted to give me $3,000, not even knowing of the oil issue.
Originally Posted By: dishdude
You're all missing the point, OP hates the car. Life's too short to drive something you hate. Trade it and get something you enjoy!
No kidding... a 2011 Corolla LE with div>
For the [censored] of it, I took the car to the $tealer$hip that I bought it from yesterday, just to test drive a Camry and see if maybe I want to think about trading up. Though trades are always less because of the middleman, they only wanted to give me $3,000, not even knowing of the oil issue.
Okay....no drops on the ground, no drop in oil level over 5k mile OCI...in short, no problems here at all...and you want to keep this puppy for another 100k miles or so....so...
1. You can address the weepage by running a couple of OCIs with HM oil, semi or full synthetic...semi is just fine...typically comes in 5w-30 flavor but that's okay.
2. If you're running 0w-20 with no leak or weepage after the above, continue to do so...
3. Stick to 5k OCI
4. Keep checking the dipstick (every 1k miles or so) for any change in level drop.
5. Don't force wash the engine (like at the high-pressure car washes) that might compromise the seals...
6. Avoid the shops/dealers who said you needed the repairs that started all of this.
You have clarified enough for me....and I see nothing else here that needs to be dealt with...Done and dusted!
Enjoy your Toy for another 6 years.
1. You can address the weepage by running a couple of OCIs with HM oil, semi or full synthetic...semi is just fine...typically comes in 5w-30 flavor but that's okay.
2. If you're running 0w-20 with no leak or weepage after the above, continue to do so...
3. Stick to 5k OCI
4. Keep checking the dipstick (every 1k miles or so) for any change in level drop.
5. Don't force wash the engine (like at the high-pressure car washes) that might compromise the seals...
6. Avoid the shops/dealers who said you needed the repairs that started all of this.
You have clarified enough for me....and I see nothing else here that needs to be dealt with...Done and dusted!
Enjoy your Toy for another 6 years.
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Originally Posted By: smc733
I'll try to give more detail now that I've been paying attention to what drips under the car over the last 24 hours. I do not have any oil spots in my garage or driveway. I used a paper towel yesterday to blot the drip after a long drive, and it was clearly just condensation water. It looks like this leaking the dealer alluded to is limited to just weeping for now. (This car has electronic power steering, so no fluid).
...
If the car goes 10,000 miles without adding oil and isn’t dripping oil on the garage floor there is no way I would spend $1000.00 to fix it. It is arguable that it should even be considered a leak.
Originally Posted By: smc733
...
For the [censored] of it, I took the car to the $tealer$hip that I bought it from yesterday, just to test drive a Camry and see if maybe I want to think about trading up. Though trades are always less because of the middleman, they only wanted to give me $3,000, not even knowing of the oil issue.
I didn’t say trade it... especially not on another Toyota. Sell it.
Of course my retort on that offer would be, “If it doesn’t hold value any better than that, why would I buy another Toyota?”
I'll try to give more detail now that I've been paying attention to what drips under the car over the last 24 hours. I do not have any oil spots in my garage or driveway. I used a paper towel yesterday to blot the drip after a long drive, and it was clearly just condensation water. It looks like this leaking the dealer alluded to is limited to just weeping for now. (This car has electronic power steering, so no fluid).
...
If the car goes 10,000 miles without adding oil and isn’t dripping oil on the garage floor there is no way I would spend $1000.00 to fix it. It is arguable that it should even be considered a leak.
Originally Posted By: smc733
...
For the [censored] of it, I took the car to the $tealer$hip that I bought it from yesterday, just to test drive a Camry and see if maybe I want to think about trading up. Though trades are always less because of the middleman, they only wanted to give me $3,000, not even knowing of the oil issue.
I didn’t say trade it... especially not on another Toyota. Sell it.
Of course my retort on that offer would be, “If it doesn’t hold value any better than that, why would I buy another Toyota?”
OK
So you don't have to add any oil between 10k oil change.
My friend,you don't have a leak.
Why even make this post?
If you just have too much money and want to through it away on non existent problems, just send some my way.
I suggest you stay out of dealerships and find yourself a good indie mechanic.
And you were ready to spend a grand before you came here and came to your senses.
Wow
So you don't have to add any oil between 10k oil change.
My friend,you don't have a leak.
Why even make this post?
If you just have too much money and want to through it away on non existent problems, just send some my way.
I suggest you stay out of dealerships and find yourself a good indie mechanic.
And you were ready to spend a grand before you came here and came to your senses.
Wow
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
OK
So you don't have to add any oil between 10k oil change.
My friend,you don't have a leak.
Why even make this post?
If you just have too much money and want to through it away on non existent problems, just send some my way.
I suggest you stay out of dealerships and find yourself a good indie mechanic.
And you were ready to spend a grand before you came here and came to your senses.
Wow
Here's a few pictures of the engine after a 60 mile round trip. Nothing makes it to the ground, but it looks like there's a good bit coming out.
I'm searching for a good indie mechanic, but its difficult to find one around my area that is around on Saturdays.
OK
So you don't have to add any oil between 10k oil change.
My friend,you don't have a leak.
Why even make this post?
If you just have too much money and want to through it away on non existent problems, just send some my way.
I suggest you stay out of dealerships and find yourself a good indie mechanic.
And you were ready to spend a grand before you came here and came to your senses.
Wow
Here's a few pictures of the engine after a 60 mile round trip. Nothing makes it to the ground, but it looks like there's a good bit coming out.
I'm searching for a good indie mechanic, but its difficult to find one around my area that is around on Saturdays.
That's not enough of an oil leak to even be worth fixing, IMO
Free rustproofing... If it doesn't smell or lose a measurable amount of oil I wouldn't bother fixing it.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
That's not enough of an oil leak to even be worth fixing, IMO
My Jeep's oil pan has looked like that for 7 years. Try a high mileage oil it will probably slow it down.
That's not enough of an oil leak to even be worth fixing, IMO
My Jeep's oil pan has looked like that for 7 years. Try a high mileage oil it will probably slow it down.
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: Miller88
That's not enough of an oil leak to even be worth fixing, IMO
My Jeep's oil pan has looked like that for 7 years. Try a high mileage oil it will probably slow it down.
I've seen this mentioned in a few of the latest replies. Any good recommendations on HMOs for Toyotas?
I've been running the OEM 0W-20, would it make sense in this instance to go to a high-mileage 5W-30?
Originally Posted By: Miller88
That's not enough of an oil leak to even be worth fixing, IMO
My Jeep's oil pan has looked like that for 7 years. Try a high mileage oil it will probably slow it down.
I've seen this mentioned in a few of the latest replies. Any good recommendations on HMOs for Toyotas?
I've been running the OEM 0W-20, would it make sense in this instance to go to a high-mileage 5W-30?
Originally Posted By: smc733
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: Miller88
That's not enough of an oil leak to even be worth fixing, IMO
My Jeep's oil pan has looked like that for 7 years. Try a high mileage oil it will probably slow it down.
I've seen this mentioned in a few of the latest replies. Any good recommendations on HMOs for Toyotas?
I've been running the OEM 0W-20, would it make sense in this instance to go to a high-mileage 5W-30?
I'd try a high mileage 5w20.
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: Miller88
That's not enough of an oil leak to even be worth fixing, IMO
My Jeep's oil pan has looked like that for 7 years. Try a high mileage oil it will probably slow it down.
I've seen this mentioned in a few of the latest replies. Any good recommendations on HMOs for Toyotas?
I've been running the OEM 0W-20, would it make sense in this instance to go to a high-mileage 5W-30?
I'd try a high mileage 5w20.
You sure the dealer wasn't pulling one over on you? I had an old Accord that I took to a dealer to have the timing belt done, and they told me it was leaking from the oil pan and it needed to be replaced. I found that odd, because I never had spots on the ground and never had to add any oil between changes (the car was a POS for other reasons, though) so they showed me where it was "leaking" from. I declined the repairs, took the car home, wiped off the oil that I'm guessing they put there, and it stayed bone dry as long as I owned the car.
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Wow, and here I was thinking I was missing out on Toyota reliability by choosing my Focus.
Local Toyota store has over 35 bays, those bays arent just for changing oil. Someone has to pay for the brand new
fancy McMansion store LOL.
Wow, and here I was thinking I was missing out on Toyota reliability by choosing my Focus.
Local Toyota store has over 35 bays, those bays arent just for changing oil. Someone has to pay for the brand new
fancy McMansion store LOL.
So your Toyota doesn't drip or consume any oil at all, but seeps a tiny bit???
What is the problem???
If you just don't like the car, don't blame this issue! Get rid of the car for the sake of getting a faster car that handles better, IMO. Or, drive this one into the ground. It'll go 200K without any issue at all if you keep servicing it regularly. Stop and go driving with a heavy right foot will cook the brakes on most any car.
What is the problem???
If you just don't like the car, don't blame this issue! Get rid of the car for the sake of getting a faster car that handles better, IMO. Or, drive this one into the ground. It'll go 200K without any issue at all if you keep servicing it regularly. Stop and go driving with a heavy right foot will cook the brakes on most any car.
I have both of my valve covers off my truck, about a 4+ hour job...glad I am doing it myself, that is an expensive job.
If you are mechanically inclined at all (I am not at all but I still manage to do all my own work) you should try to do this your self. Save the money, my gaskets and such cost me 30$
If you are mechanically inclined at all (I am not at all but I still manage to do all my own work) you should try to do this your self. Save the money, my gaskets and such cost me 30$
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