1st time actually noticing a viscosity difference..

The above seems to contradict your earlier statement:



I believe the poster who asked the question was simply asking whether a more vicious oil might leave behind a more robust or longer lasting oil film, which might contribute to less noise at startup.

But if *all* oil falls to the pan as you suggest, I'm certainly curious how startup noise is affected by oil viscosity.

I did a test earlier on two of my kids' bike chains. Sitting out in the cold, about 30F or so, I poured a half capful of 5w-20 and 15w-40 on a 2" section of each chain. About 3 hours later, I came back and ran my hands on the chain, and the one which I'd applied the 15w-40 to had a noticeably thicker oil film on it. No scientific measurements, but there was a distinct difference. I set cardboard underneath each, and it was clear that more 5w-20 was present on the cardboard (dripped off the chain) than the other. Is there any reason that oil on an engine timing chain wouldn't behave in a similar fashion after engine shutdown?

Both oils will be hot when you shut off an engine and very close to the same viscosity, only a few cSt apart. Within minutes, before the oil had a chance to really cool down, the majority will be in the sump. Did you apply the oil on the chains when hot?
 
I still wonder if it is the 5w/15w or 20/40 differences, OR something else, like an additive providing benefit during dry starts. Is it ALL placebo? That is, are all oils are equally worthless until there is oil flow and only then do differences in base stock, additives, viscosity, etc. come into play?
Let me guide you on the diagnostic process when doing this. ( it does take equipment to do this properly- an educated ear can do this with a "good" degree of accuracy but that's more accident than on purpose)

You have to analyze the sound first in terms of amplitude and frequency. That then helps determine if the sound is a true impact ( things hitting ) or sliding ( things grazing)

Then defining how often the sound peaks and valleys and the wave pattern can help pinpoint where exactly it is and sometimes identify the conditions prevailing when it happens. ( like a 100 link chain at 200 rpm can be pinpointed)

In very general terms- the "click" or "tick" ( distinctive) are almost exclusively impacts as they seldom have lead ins or outs- they show as spikes traditionally.

That's almost always a displacement issue ( again, "almost")

At that point, damping is almost always a fluid property- not a lubricating or additive property.

That's a gross simplification with many special cases but a good overall guide.
 
@ABN_CBT_ENGR

Thanks for the info.

Btw, I never use grease on my bike chain. It was just an example of something very thick and not a recommendation ...

I've used WD-40 to get rid of chain rust and it does a great job. I have some dry bike lube (Teflon?) which is 10+ years old that I sparingly use.
 
Found out what oil (Magnatec ??) was used in that Honda ... great film strength !! :LOL:

 
I have experienced the exact same thing in my 1988 Ford F150 302. I've always had 10w30 or 10w40 in it. And it always rattled a little bit after startup with a delay in oil pressure. And I did some experiments with 5w30, 5w40 then 15w40. 15w40 has oil pressure as soon as the engine starts.
What kind of cold start ambient temp are we talking about? I'm wondering if using 15w40 in my engines down to 0c (32f) would be acceptable. Looking at the pressure gauge i see no difference between 5w40, 10w40 and 15w40.
 
What kind of cold start ambient temp are we talking about? I'm wondering if using 15w40 in my engines down to 0c (32f) would be acceptable. Looking at the pressure gauge i see no difference between 5w40, 10w40 and 15w40.
I believe 15w is good until the about 10°f. In the upstate of South Carolina it rarely ever gets that cold.
 
I just want to be clear I'm hearing the slight T.C. noise at cold start-up only (overnight in garage @ least 10hrs from prior use, the ambient temp is irrelevant 0-90f...switch grade/mfg of oil and now nothing..
 
Is one form of Moly superior to the other somehow?
That question can lock a thread very quickly. lol

Having said that and with no scientific data to back it up and based on my limited observation, oils with higher amounts of the old moly (Not the trinuclear) run smoother in my cars.

iirc, Toyota (and other Japanese car?) recommended oils have also good chunks of moly.
 
That question can lock a thread very quickly. lol

Having said that and with no scientific data to back it up and based on my limited observation, oils with higher amounts of the old moly (Not the trinuclear) run smoother in my cars.

iirc, Toyota (and other Japanese car?) recommended oils have also good chunks of moly.
one of the reasons I like one of the motor oils that I do is that it has a good amount of Moly in it. I can only assume you were being facetious as I don't want to start any of that thread locking stuff so I'm just going to say I took what you said as being light-hearted.

I've been known to put the mos2 in my oils too and they always seem to run a little bit smoother. They make the oil a very funky color but I think when you drive a lot as I do I think it can only help. depends if you have the extra money for some feel-good supplements for your oil, I'm sure none of that stuff is actually needed but I think oil "feel" is a thing.
 
@JT20
I really liked your question and was just kidding ... I also like to learn more about differences between molys and love thin vs. thick threads and this oil makes less noise than the other oil ...

However, I had a feeling that with moly, the top guns usually get involved and we may go deeper into perceived or real "engine noise" ... anyway was just joking. ;)
 
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@JT20
I really liked your question and was just kidding ... I also like to learn more about differences between molys and love thin vs. thick threads and this oil makes less noise than the other oil ...

However, I had a feeling that with moly, the top guns usually get involved and we may go deeper into perceived or real "engine noise" ... anyway was just joking.
I mean . My personal theory on the matter
which is probably about a scientific of sticking two quarts of oil in the freezer overnight and then pouring them out.... still showing that one moves better than the other one just that there's not gravity involved in an engine oil pump rather the opposite..... But...

As to the issue of noise in engines or what feels quieter on what... I feel that I have noticed differences in different kinds of oil, and I can only *think.* *Think.* *🤔**Think* that it has something to do...
.. with some kind of combination of whatever base stock is used, percentage of, thickness of said base stock (the same way GC is a "Thick 30" and Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra is a "Thin 30") and that perhaps noise or vibrations that cause noise within metallurgy of metal in engines (steel, aluminum, maybe metal, who knows, discussed with Hyundai Nu engines etc as to examples of poor metallurgy) would "transmit" "noise" "across" the oil from things like Pistons going up and down, riding on that film of oil across the journals and bearing journals etc, how the oil then flows up through the Piston through its oiling holes, around the heads and in the heads through oil galleys, and if there's more cushion or less cushion in the oil. Now that's not a scientific explanation *at all* (I think what gets everybody mad is when you represent ideas as facts) however it is why maybe, ohh... "Castrol" (ahem) may *seem* quieter than other oils that people say are usually loud.

and I never did put that quart of 0w-40 in my engine because I'm getting a new engine.

I have another oil that I think is very quiet too but that's really a group 5 Ester.

what I want to know is why we use Roman numerals for numbers instead of just saying the number.

Edit: Maybe conndcting rods, thanks PimTac.
 
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I mean . My personal theory on the matter
which is probably about a scientific of sticking two quarts of oil in the freezer overnight and then pouring them out.... still showing that one moves better than the other one just that there's not gravity involved in an engine oil pump rather the opposite..... But...

As to the issue of noise in engines or what feels quieter on what... I feel that I have noticed differences in different kinds of oil, and I can only *think.* *Think.* *🤔**Think* that it has something to do...
.. with some kind of combination of whatever base stock is used, percentage of, thickness of said base stock (the same way GC is a "Thick 30" and Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra is a "Thin 30") and that perhaps noise or vibrations that cause noise within metallurgy of metal in engines (steel, aluminum, maybe metal, who knows, discussed with Hyundai Nu engines etc as to examples of poor metallurgy) would "transmit" "noise" "across" the oil from things like Pistons going up and down, riding on that film of oil across the journals and bearing journals etc, how the oil then flows up through the Piston through its oiling holes, around the heads and in the heads through oil galleys, and if there's more cushion or less cushion in the oil. Now that's not a scientific explanation *at all* (I think what gets everybody mad is when you represent ideas as facts) however it is why maybe, ohh... "Castrol" (ahem) may *seem* quieter than other oils that people say are usually loud.

and I never did put that quart of 0w-40 in my engine because I'm getting a new engine.

I have another oil that I think is very quiet too but that's really a group 5 Ester.

what I want to know is why we use Roman numerals for numbers instead of just saying the number.

What in the world are you talking about!?
 
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