1st oil change, what a MESS!!!!

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Aug 16, 2004
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Pensacola, Florida
Hey guys,

I finally got 3027 miles on my Toyota Tacoma and decided to change the oil and filter, myself.

Now I've changed oil and filters on several different cars in my life, but this little V6 is the pits.

OH MY GOD!!! What a ****** MESS!!!!!

The filter is located in the most difficult place one could place it. What were the Toyota engineers thinking? Oh yeah right, they weren't!

I had oil going everywhere; down the block, wires, frame, down my hands and arm, and then onto the ****** floor!

phew...sorry
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Anyway, I don't know if I'm going to like this task anymore. Isn't there a better way?

I used the Toyota filter, which by the way I got three for $3.95 each, from the dealership. I used Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 oil; nearly 6 (5.8)quarts to fill it up! So, it looks like it's going to cost me $30.10 per oil change if I do it myself.
Which I want to do, but.....oh boy. And yes, I tried the plastic bag trick...hah! Just waisted a bag and probably made a bigger mess than I needed. But, I did wear nitrile gloves and saved the nails and hands
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Oh well, just thought I'd let you guys know how it went.

Judy in Pensacola. Yeah, Francis missed us!
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Why not install one of Fram's Sure Drains? I have one on all my cars & it makes it alot easier to change oil. Also, you might want to think about a filter relocation kit.
 
Hey, I make messes even after 25 years of changing oil. Forgot one time to empty drain container, so of course it overflowed all over the driveway without me noticing.

To cut down on oil that comes out during filter removal: allow car to sit longer before the drain; loosen the old filter enough to break the seal and allow air in but lightly tighten back again. Some even punch a hole in the filter to drain it. Personally, my cars aren't too big of a problem.

What I do recomment, use those big (like 3'x4') shallow metal drip pans (available here at Pep Boys or Autozone @$6) under the car to catch miscellanous drips. And of course plenty of paper towels.
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quote:

Originally posted by rg144:
Hey, I make messes even after 25 years of changing oil. Forgot one time to empty drain container, so of course it overflowed all over the driveway without me noticing.

I can do you one better (or worse, depending on your point of view). I left the plug in my drain pan during my most recent oil change. The oil drained into the top catch portion of the pan, but couldn't drain into the bottom reservoir. I wound up with the Exxon Valdez on my driveway.
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Those Toyota trucks are a real PITA, from what I hear. Most people use a filter relocation kit or remove the rock guard (sorry, can't think of the right name for it) for the duration of the oil change.
 
quote:

Originally posted by twb:
Yeah, I've read posts by people touting the plastic bag method of changing oil filters. I believe if the filter is accessible enough to keep the friggin' bag in place, then the bag isn't needed. {snip}

Ummmm, whether or not a filter has oil in it to spill does not depend upon whether or not it's accessible. And with easily accessible filters, it's much easier to get a bag on, or packing around, the filter before you unscrew the thing, so why not? The hard-to-access cars are likely to be messier, since it's harder to prevent the deluge when it comes. In the few hard-to-reach filter cars I've had, I've always just packed papertowel around the canister before unscrewing, and that seems to take care of a majority of the mess. On my open access cars, I've used bags or gloves to reduce spillage to near zero.
 
Crank the steering wheel all the way to the left, pop off the 2 appropriate plastic fasteners holding the rubber dust/moisture shied off and you can get to the filter through the wheel well.

It's not bad to get to this way. Some used oil from the filter will leak onto the backside of the skid pan (if applicable). It'll be gone in 3 miles.


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quote:

Originally posted by synergy_58:
Hey guys,

I finally got 3027 miles on my Toyota Tacoma and decided to change the oil and filter, myself.

Now I've changed oil and filters on several different cars in my life, but this little V6 is the pits.

OH MY GOD!!! What a ****** MESS!!!!!


Now you know why I put a remote filter on my 4Runner.
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It is possible to reach your filter if you stand on something and can get your arm under the crap on the left side of the engine. Unless you remove the skid plates though it'll be a drippy mess for days after.

The drain plug is pretty low on the 4Runner, I don't know if it's the same on the Taco. I sure wouldn't want a valve hanging off the the oil pan myself.

My advice is always the same on these. Remote filter mount, remove the skids when you do the change, and find an oil you feel comfortable running 10K miles...
 
LOL, that reminds me of changing the plugs on my folks old 70 Bonneville, you had to remove the right front tire and go in through the wheel well to get to the plugs under the aircon compressor. What a pita.

The oil filter on my dear old Mom's 92 T-Bird V6 is also located so that oil drains down on the front crossmember and on a bunch of wires and the steering linkage. What a friggin mess. The worst was on a friend's mid 90's T-Bird with the 4.6L V8. You can barely get your hand and wrench on the filter, and then when you do get it off, it takes like 10 minutes to fish it out around frame parts, hoses and other stuff. Then it takes another 10 minutes to fish the new filter back into place. Major pita.

My 88 IROC is simple, all you have to do is drive up on the ramps, then the filter is right there under the thing, easy access and it doesn't drain all over everything. My old Buick 3.8L was also easy to change.
 
Good job synergy!!!!!!

My first change many years ago,
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turned into a oil spill disaster! The oil was very warm and when I opened the drain nut it surprised me causing me to hit my 2liter bottle drain pan knocking it over allowing the nice hot oil to deflect off the nice rounded coke bottle. Since this was at an apartment building I scurried very quickly to hide my demise with whatever was available such as dead branches, leaves, etc.. I quickly cleaned up the disaster, refilled the sump and promptly moved my vehicle from the spot. I then walked away with a whistle and acted like nothing happened...

Moral of the story, don't do it anywhere you can be seen by others and don't use a 2liter bottle to drain a 6 quart sump!
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Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil1 Synthetic SS 5W-30.
ODO 10400Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 91900 Miles.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer
 
I have a Toyota also and ended up leaving the skid plate off of the truck. It didn`t affect the performance and makes the oil changes alot easier. The best way to limit filter spillage for me was to unscrew the filter until oil starts spilling out and set a pan where it is draining at. Wait until it stops and then unscrew it from underneath and flip it over in the drain pan to empty it. When your done shoot some engine degreaser on the frame crossbar that the oil had poured onto , hose it off and your done.Good luck,Chris.
 
Yeah, I've read posts by people touting the plastic bag method of changing oil filters. I believe if the filter is accessible enough to keep the friggin' bag in place, then the bag isn't needed. And as far as the location of filters, they seem to get worse and worse. I use to complain like crazy about my Taurus having the filter right next to the (hand burning) exhaust manifold. That I could deal with, just let it cool for a while before taking off the filter. Now, with my Passat, (and my thick forearms)I can juuuussstt baaarrrrely reach the filter with a strap wrench and turn it a 1/16 of a turn at a time to get it loose. Then reach up through another opening where I can turn it with my fingertips. All in anticipation of a bunch of oil slopping down the side of the block and running along and into frame members! Those frame members have some holes in the bottom where oil can then drip out for the next 3-7 days. It almost makes changing the oil in my full size pickup, fun!
 
Fram's SureDrain is good but does not solve the problem of the filter removal mess. The filter relocation kit that Chevynut67 brought up may be a good idea.

If you rather keep the filter where it is, here a suggestion: Drain the oil pan first, and wait a 1/2 hour or more before removing the filter. This will help minimize the amount of oil that remains in the filter, though some oil will still leak out because of it's position and the ADBV.

In addition, you may want to try to create a catch using a sheet of aluminum foil to channel the oil from the filter to your container. I've done this with great success on fews car.

Good luck!

[ September 07, 2004, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: Razl ]
 
You're absolutely right!! What a poor filter location. Too bad the filter wasn't in the same location as their new 4L V6, right on top. I started removing the oil filter from the top on the V6 in my 98 Tacoma which is a little easier than trying from underneath with lowering the skid plate. You have to reach around the alternator which is a little difficult and a filter wrench is a good idea to initially loosen the filter.


There isn't really any way to prevent spillage but I place a rag as best I can under the filter when removing it to catch the oil as the seal is broken. I still get some dripping the next day from the back of the skid plate, but leave my piece of cardboard in place underneath to catch those drips.
 
quote:

Originally posted by speedy341:
It's not bad to get to this way. Some used oil from the filter will leak onto the backside of the skid pan (if applicable). It'll be gone in 3 miles.

Unless you drop the filter facing down onto the skidplate.
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I have this vehicle and found the only thing that works consistently is packing some paper towels between the engine and skidplate where it runs off in the back. This is in anticipation for the spill. Then I crawl through the left wheelwell. Just don't drop the filter.
 
Thanks guys for all your supporting comments.

The next time I do this, I will remove the skid plate in advance, pull the plug and let the bulk of the oil drain, let the engine cool down, break the seal on the filter (in hopes of letting some oil flow out), pack paper towels around the filter, and then drop the darn thing.

Seems like a lot of work. It would be easier just to let the dealer do it. But, no, I wouldn't feel like satisfied that they paid attention to details.

I have considered the oil filter relocation kit but, according to the dealer, I shouldn't do it. It could invalidate the warranty should something go wrong. Maybe after the initial 3 years/36,000 miles are up.

In the meantime, I guess I'll just try to be patient and take my time.

Thanks again guys!

Judy in Pensacola
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