1998 Diesel Beetle opinion needed

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Originally Posted By: Thermo1223

The whole "intake carbon" scenario was all due to US grade fuel and the inability of a USoA driver to actually drive the car. Most people would short shift it at 2k rpms, barely accelerate with very little throttle and wonder why the car felt sluggish.


Driving conservatively is bad for the car? Shifting at 2K shouldn't hurt a thing. Is the TDI really that particular?
 
Well...when this is your tach.

2e1c8sy.jpg


Ya 2k rpms is short shifting it. I have heard of some only shifting at 1500, heck the turbo isn't even in full boost till a 1950rpms.

Hot or cold, you should shift no later than 3k rpms. It keeps the vnt actuator working the vanes inside the turbo and keeps the engine working. A TDI is not a putt putt mobile, it needs to be worked, it was designed to do so.
 
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Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223

The whole "intake carbon" scenario was all due to US grade fuel and the inability of a USoA driver to actually drive the car. Most people would short shift it at 2k rpms, barely accelerate with very little throttle and wonder why the car felt sluggish.


Driving conservatively is bad for the car? Shifting at 2K shouldn't hurt a thing. Is the TDI really that particular?


It's bad for any turbo-charged engine, especially those with VGT turbos. They are made for booooost, give 'em booooost. Like all German engines, it's made to be driven.
 
Hmmmphh. Reminds me of the thread a few months ago about the Mazda RX8. Drive it just so, and it'll run great for a long time. Do anything wrong, at all, during startup, idling, warmup, driving or shutdown, and you'll have an expensive lawn ornament. No thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
If a diesel is on your bucket list, get an older Benz diesel. More style, and great car.


The people who own older Benzes in good condition are not likely to put them up for sale. So most of those for sale are pretty beat up. The engines may run forever but corrosion takes its toll on the rest of the car.

At least a VW New Beetle TDI will not rust out on you -- best anti-corrosion warranty in the industry. Parts are easier to find and don't cost as much as MB parts. The engines are easy to work on, but benefit from the expertise of a TDI pro. 50 mpg is achievable if you work at it, with a manual transmission, but of course no one should ever buy any automatic Volkswagen before the 2004 model year.

Sure, if you can find a clean MB turbodiesel for a good price, then buy it. But don't pay too much for a rust-bucket, and don't ignore an older New Beetle TDI if it's been well taken care of.
 
I contacted the seller, and was told he was going to let his son drive the car into January, and if I still wanted it to call him then. I said forget it!

I managed to find a 2000 1.8 turbo, that had 100,000 less KM, and has zero rust. (diesel bug has rust in front of rear wheels)

I bought the car on a bit of an impulse for $3500 as it was in such good shape. Leather, heated seats, AC, sunroof...

I does have some engines codes I will need to troubleshoot, but looks like a downstream 02 sensor for the most part.

Not sure about the 1.8L turbo that puts out 150 HP, but I am about to find out...
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
Hmmmphh. Reminds me of the thread a few months ago about the Mazda RX8. Drive it just so, and it'll run great for a long time. Do anything wrong, at all, during startup, idling, warmup, driving or shutdown, and you'll have an expensive lawn ornament. No thanks.


I wouldn't say it is that black or white even with an RX-8.

Wankel's have their own idiosyncrasies though, like not appreciating very short trips. They will just rev & rev & rev some more....have some coffee & rev even more though, that is in itself very enjoyable.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: DT466E_bus
It won't bother you to be seen in it?


... Never had a diesel before...


Once you own a diesel, you're hooked... the fuel efficiency, power and "cool factor" are hard to beat! Go for it.
 
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Well...when this is your tach.

2e1c8sy.jpg



Actually the redline is 5100 rpm, not 4600 rpm. Without a custom tune there is no reason to exceed 4200-4400 ever, because that's where the horsepower drops off vertically; but with a custom tune you can rev all the way to the redline.

TDI engines are tough but they need exercise. They should not be babied, at least not all the time. Give them occasional hard work and both the engines and the turbos will stay healthy for a long long time.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
I contacted the seller, and was told he was going to let his son drive the car into January, and if I still wanted it to call him then. I said forget it!

I managed to find a 2000 1.8 turbo, that had 100,000 less KM, and has zero rust. (diesel bug has rust in front of rear wheels)

I bought the car on a bit of an impulse for $3500 as it was in such good shape. Leather, heated seats, AC, sunroof...

I does have some engines codes I will need to troubleshoot, but looks like a downstream 02 sensor for the most part.

Not sure about the 1.8L turbo that puts out 150 HP, but I am about to find out...


It was in good shape yet check engine light was illuminated? Try holding back on your impulse next time. CEL on VW is not fun.
 
Originally Posted By: silverrat

It was in good shape yet check engine light was illuminated? Try holding back on your impulse next time. CEL on VW is not fun.


A CEL on a VW TDI is most commonly the result of one glowplug having a different voltage than the others. This does not mean the glowplugs are not functioning, only that the voltages are not identical. I know several TDI owners who have driven for months and even years with a CEL, and in fact my own Golf TDI has had a glowplug-related CEL most of the time since around 2007. One of these days I will replace the plugs ($10-20 each from online vendors) and maybe the harness. In the meantime my car starts very well in temperatures around 0°F, which is as cold as it's been so far this winter. The glowplugs work fine, they are just not identical in function.
 
Better choice. The transverse mounted engine holds more oil and did not locate the turbo oil lines next to the header, so sludge is less of an issue than longitudinal engines. Keep the timing belt service. Use G-05 coolant. Get a chip, you will not regret it. Sometimes modded ECU can be found second hand.
 
Originally Posted By: Tornado Red
Originally Posted By: silverrat

It was in good shape yet check engine light was illuminated? Try holding back on your impulse next time. CEL on VW is not fun.


A CEL on a VW TDI is most commonly the result of one glowplug having a different voltage than the others. This does not mean the glowplugs are not functioning, only that the voltages are not identical. I know several TDI owners who have driven for months and even years with a CEL, and in fact my own Golf TDI has had a glowplug-related CEL most of the time since around 2007. One of these days I will replace the plugs ($10-20 each from online vendors) and maybe the harness. In the meantime my car starts very well in temperatures around 0°F, which is as cold as it's been so far this winter. The glowplugs work fine, they are just not identical in function.



He wasn't talking about a TDI in this case.
 
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