1996 4Runner generates little heat for interior

[SeaJay]

Originally Posted by sifan
Originally Posted by SeaJay

If needed, can likely get a used core from a scrap yard. Labor is a killer on that repair.


Since labor is expensive, wouldn't it be better to get a new replacement instead of a used one, which might clog up sooner and needs another replacement?


Yes, a new one is sure better. Someone had suggested a new part might not be available, used is better than nothing.

 

[02SE]

Originally Posted by sifan
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
Check connections from below....my LC of similar vintage has outer pipes for a rear heater...and if rubber hose fails...not only that you loose heating....but you are also loosing fluid from your cooling system!


Is the rear heater an option on 1996 4Runner Limited? How can you tell if there is a rear heater? I did not see any temperature control for the rear passengers in my 4Runner.


Look on the back of your center console (where your right armrest is when seated in the drivers seat). If you have the rear heater, you will see a fan speed switch and a lever that goes from off to hot. If you find that, you will also have the rear heater core and fan under the passenger seat. There will be steel lines that run from the engine bay down under the body to the rear heater core. If the vehicle has been operated and neglected in a highly corrosive environment, those lines can rust out and leak coolant. Which could lead to losing too much coolant and overheating the engine if not caught in time.

The heater valve mentioned is on the firewall, and has a cable going to it. It controls hot coolant flow to the heater core.

The temperature gauge on the dash will show 'normal operating temperature' from approx. 160°F to over 220°F. It's not a precise instrument. The reason for that is if the gauge showed the actual temperature variation, some people might panic and complain. Hence the glorified idiot light disguised as a gauge.

The point in mentioning that is you might have a thermostat that is stuck open or even non-existant, depending on how the vehicle was or wasn't maintained.

The early 5VZ-FE also had a headgasket recall. Your '96 would have been included in that recall. IF it wasn't fixed under the recall, you could be experiencing the effects of the previous owner trying to limp the engine along without a thermostat in an attempt to keep the engine cooler, thus limiting the leakage from the headgasket. I'm not saying that's necessarily the case here, but I saw owners doing that rather than just getting the headgaskets replaced.

The bottom line is that there are numerous possibilities for the no or marginal heat issue. It might be best to have a qualified mechanic diagnose it in person. Good luck.

 

[Kamele0N]

Originally Posted by SeaJay


Yes, a new one is sure better. Someone had suggested a new part might not be available, used is better than nothing.


You have to be "inventive" with a car of that age

There are still plenty of spareparts on internet (Ebay....4x4 pages...etc)

How I am doing.....since my local Toyota service wants "an arm and a leg" for every part I need

ToyoDIY page.....then I search for a proper P/N.....then Ebay + Toyota + P/N

Lets say a heater core for my LC....

https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_199703_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_KZJ95L-GKMNTW_8712.4.html

P/N: 87107-35060

Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...amp;_nkw=Toyota+87107-35060&_sacat=0

50-70 bucks....its even the same as yours

 

[mk378]

First things first, is the cooling system full? Any evidence of a stop leak product being used in the past?

Like others said the water valve cable needs to move to fully open when you move the dash control to hot.

 

[Audios]

Definitely try backflushing the core, youd be surprised at what comes out. Another trick Ive found was to reverse the inlet and outlet hoses, so it flows backwards through the core. I dealt with no heat for a year in my old a4, it was miserable, and could never loosen any crud out flushing. Once I swapped them, I had heat again on that ride home.

 

[sifan]

Originally Posted by 02SE


Look on the back of your center console (where your right armrest is when seated in the drivers seat). If you have the rear heater, you will see a fan speed switch and a lever that goes from off to hot. If you find that, you will also have the rear heater core and fan under the passenger seat.

The heater valve mentioned is on the firewall, and has a cable going to it. It controls hot coolant flow to the heater core.

The bottom line is that there are numerous possibilities for the no or marginal heat issue. It might be best to have a qualified mechanic diagnose it in person. Good luck.


I can confirm that my 4Runner doesn't have a rear heater core.

Does the blend door coexist with the heater valve?

Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge on this issue. I will take my 4Runner to a mechanic to check it out.

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted by sifan
Originally Posted by Astro14
Heater core, or the blend door/control cable. My 1990 (admittedly, earlier generation) never had the heater core fail or plug up, and it's still on the road.

But at one point, the control cables in the dash bound up, from age and wear, and I had to install a new control panel. I had no heat when those cables stuck, because the blend door wouldn't move.

It was a pretty big deal, because, of course it failed in January, in Colorado...


Why the whole control panel? Couldn't just replace the cable? I am not sure if Toyota still makes the control panel for my vintage 4Runner.


This was over a decade ago...2002 or so...

I don't remember exactly, but I think the cables weren't available separately. So, no, couldn't replace the cables, had to do the guts. The face of the panel, and the sliders, were retained.

I think.