Install a battery cut-out switch in the dash. Problem solved.
1995 Taurus running thread
- Thread starter TechnoLoGs
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As to diagnosis. Anyone else?
Since you suspect voltage regulator issues, why not try one of these and see if voltage spikes or drops correspond with the gauges and the tranny losing gears?
http://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Voltmeter-Buyincoins/dp/B0092KVYGI
http://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Voltmeter-Buyincoins/dp/B0092KVYGI
I just want to make sure it's clear that the temperature of the transmission fluid is not the same as the engine coolant. If, for example, the trans fluid wasn't circulating properly, you wouldn't see that on the engine coolant gauge. Most cars don't have a trans fluid temperature gauge, and I doubt any Taurus does.
But I agree, it sounds like an electrical problem, since disconnecting the battery fixes it without cooling off.
I'm still wondering about possible solenoid failure, but I'm not sure how disconnecting the battery would fix that either.
Check engine light is a good point, make sure it works and if you have any CE codes look into them. Since it's a computer controlled transmission, who knows what voodoo is at work here.
Is there a fuse for the ECM? What happens if you just pull that fuse, to reset the ECM but maintain power to everything else? I'm not sure what that would prove, but it helps isolate the symptoms to the ECM.
This seems to be a transmission electronic controls issue.. to diagnose that will take a lot of research or the help of a transmission shop. It's possible that the official service manual has troubleshooting steps for these particular symptoms, but who knows.
Maybe a bad ECM.. but I'm always skeptical of that diagnosis. It's the kind of thing people usually guess wrong about.
I really suggest you try to get ideas from a Taurus forum, they might know details about these cars that could explain why it could act like this.
But I agree, it sounds like an electrical problem, since disconnecting the battery fixes it without cooling off.
I'm still wondering about possible solenoid failure, but I'm not sure how disconnecting the battery would fix that either.
Check engine light is a good point, make sure it works and if you have any CE codes look into them. Since it's a computer controlled transmission, who knows what voodoo is at work here.
Is there a fuse for the ECM? What happens if you just pull that fuse, to reset the ECM but maintain power to everything else? I'm not sure what that would prove, but it helps isolate the symptoms to the ECM.
This seems to be a transmission electronic controls issue.. to diagnose that will take a lot of research or the help of a transmission shop. It's possible that the official service manual has troubleshooting steps for these particular symptoms, but who knows.
Maybe a bad ECM.. but I'm always skeptical of that diagnosis. It's the kind of thing people usually guess wrong about.
I really suggest you try to get ideas from a Taurus forum, they might know details about these cars that could explain why it could act like this.
Originally Posted By: armos
I just want to make sure it's clear that the temperature of the transmission fluid is not the same as the engine coolant. If, for example, the trans fluid wasn't circulating properly, you wouldn't see that on the engine coolant gauge. Most cars don't have a trans fluid temperature gauge, and I doubt any Taurus does.
But I agree, it sounds like an electrical problem, since disconnecting the battery fixes it without cooling off.
I'm still wondering about possible solenoid failure, but I'm not sure how disconnecting the battery would fix that either.
Check engine light is a good point, make sure it works and if you have any CE codes look into them. Since it's a computer controlled transmission, who knows what voodoo is at work here.
Is there a fuse for the ECM? What happens if you just pull that fuse, to reset the ECM but maintain power to everything else? I'm not sure what that would prove, but it helps isolate the symptoms to the ECM.
This seems to be a transmission electronic controls issue.. to diagnose that will take a lot of research or the help of a transmission shop. It's possible that the official service manual has troubleshooting steps for these particular symptoms, but who knows.
Maybe a bad ECM.. but I'm always skeptical of that diagnosis. It's the kind of thing people usually guess wrong about.
I really suggest you try to get ideas from a Taurus forum, they might know details about these cars that could explain why it could act like this.
I am going to do some cooling system flushing and probably get a Haynes manual, though I have to say, I have found Haynes somewhat useless in the past. Though I will look at it in the store before I determine that.
If the Voltage Regular and Rectifier are internal to the Alternator, then maybe I also need a new one of those.
Checking out the link for that product dishdude mentioned, I ask because I do not know they are out there.
It shifts non-clunky a lot more than it did now.
The Check Engine light comes on when the key is turned to "on" but engine not started so it is not setting any DTCs or trouble codes.
I also made the post on Taurus Club or TCCA forum, let's see if anyone responds. I posted in detail.
I just want to make sure it's clear that the temperature of the transmission fluid is not the same as the engine coolant. If, for example, the trans fluid wasn't circulating properly, you wouldn't see that on the engine coolant gauge. Most cars don't have a trans fluid temperature gauge, and I doubt any Taurus does.
But I agree, it sounds like an electrical problem, since disconnecting the battery fixes it without cooling off.
I'm still wondering about possible solenoid failure, but I'm not sure how disconnecting the battery would fix that either.
Check engine light is a good point, make sure it works and if you have any CE codes look into them. Since it's a computer controlled transmission, who knows what voodoo is at work here.
Is there a fuse for the ECM? What happens if you just pull that fuse, to reset the ECM but maintain power to everything else? I'm not sure what that would prove, but it helps isolate the symptoms to the ECM.
This seems to be a transmission electronic controls issue.. to diagnose that will take a lot of research or the help of a transmission shop. It's possible that the official service manual has troubleshooting steps for these particular symptoms, but who knows.
Maybe a bad ECM.. but I'm always skeptical of that diagnosis. It's the kind of thing people usually guess wrong about.
I really suggest you try to get ideas from a Taurus forum, they might know details about these cars that could explain why it could act like this.
I am going to do some cooling system flushing and probably get a Haynes manual, though I have to say, I have found Haynes somewhat useless in the past. Though I will look at it in the store before I determine that.
If the Voltage Regular and Rectifier are internal to the Alternator, then maybe I also need a new one of those.
Checking out the link for that product dishdude mentioned, I ask because I do not know they are out there.
It shifts non-clunky a lot more than it did now.
The Check Engine light comes on when the key is turned to "on" but engine not started so it is not setting any DTCs or trouble codes.
I also made the post on Taurus Club or TCCA forum, let's see if anyone responds. I posted in detail.
There is presently a LOT of brown coolant in the engine. I am flushing it out now.
Wow, a LOT!!!
Wow, a LOT!!!
And call me crazy, but... The more I flush this, the better it runs??
Oh, GOOD! Taurus Club feels strongly it is Vehicle Speed Sensor failing.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Well now we are on a track, maybe the right one.
Also I'd do everything to keep it cool for the time being, maybe including rigging up the rad fan to run all the time.
Yes. Agreed!
I bought 10 gallons distilled water, actually 14, and have begun flushing all the mud out of the block. And mud, it was. Nice puked up pepto bismol color brown. Using white vinegar as flushing agent. That, a couple bottles if HM Gumout at $3 each on 1/4 tank of fuel, ($3 for effective PEA cleaner? Oh yes, and its working some magic too.) and air purged from system.. She runs smoith now. Temp gauge moves less, too. And there is still more flushing to be done.... I have devised a drain/fill system. New rad cap too. Is helping. No leaks! And HG/engine seems fine.
Maybe air was all up in there.........................
And VSS asks 17 bolt trans, 19 bolt trans, and with or w/o speedo cable.
Changed two more quarts last night and Overdrive has not cut out today.....
Ironically, my mechanic has a 2004 S10 Blazer and the ride to get the brake pads and rotors was so powerful and smooth that I can honestly say.. That I have no idea the status of S10, and its 1995 4.3 swap, same general feel as that 2004, they changed it a little just before they dropped the Blazer. L35 vs LU3. Love that 4.3.feel. And 95 is suppoaed to be best year to have engine from for those...
Well now we are on a track, maybe the right one.
Also I'd do everything to keep it cool for the time being, maybe including rigging up the rad fan to run all the time.
Yes. Agreed!
I bought 10 gallons distilled water, actually 14, and have begun flushing all the mud out of the block. And mud, it was. Nice puked up pepto bismol color brown. Using white vinegar as flushing agent. That, a couple bottles if HM Gumout at $3 each on 1/4 tank of fuel, ($3 for effective PEA cleaner? Oh yes, and its working some magic too.) and air purged from system.. She runs smoith now. Temp gauge moves less, too. And there is still more flushing to be done.... I have devised a drain/fill system. New rad cap too. Is helping. No leaks! And HG/engine seems fine.
Maybe air was all up in there.........................
And VSS asks 17 bolt trans, 19 bolt trans, and with or w/o speedo cable.
Changed two more quarts last night and Overdrive has not cut out today.....
Ironically, my mechanic has a 2004 S10 Blazer and the ride to get the brake pads and rotors was so powerful and smooth that I can honestly say.. That I have no idea the status of S10, and its 1995 4.3 swap, same general feel as that 2004, they changed it a little just before they dropped the Blazer. L35 vs LU3. Love that 4.3.feel. And 95 is suppoaed to be best year to have engine from for those...
It is running really well, everyone.
Originally Posted By: surfstar
If you were to expend the same amount of effort on the drama-queen cars to getting an education/job/furthering your career, maybe you wouldn't have to settle for drama cars. Just a thought.
I know I'm in on this one really late, but I had to laugh at this post... F-ING BRILLIANT!!! You made my night!
If you were to expend the same amount of effort on the drama-queen cars to getting an education/job/furthering your career, maybe you wouldn't have to settle for drama cars. Just a thought.
I know I'm in on this one really late, but I had to laugh at this post... F-ING BRILLIANT!!! You made my night!
How many times do I have to flush it before it looks like diarrhea-ish Pepto Bismol brown sickly puke, the water/coolant?
It's very difficult to flush through the whole cooling system. Make sure you have the heater running. I'd just use a hose until you get it clean, then replace with distilled+antifreeze after you reach that point.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Oh, GOOD! Taurus Club feels strongly it is Vehicle Speed Sensor failing.
The VSS was recommended here much earlier on in this thread, you ignored it
Oh, GOOD! Taurus Club feels strongly it is Vehicle Speed Sensor failing.
The VSS was recommended here much earlier on in this thread, you ignored it
Originally Posted By: babyivan
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Oh, GOOD! Taurus Club feels strongly it is Vehicle Speed Sensor failing.
The VSS was recommended here much earlier on in this thread, you ignored it
eljefino suggested to start with another item, and I did.
Range switch.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Oh, GOOD! Taurus Club feels strongly it is Vehicle Speed Sensor failing.
The VSS was recommended here much earlier on in this thread, you ignored it
eljefino suggested to start with another item, and I did.
Range switch.
Now I have to figure if its 17 bolt trans, 19 bolt trans, and with or w/o speedo cable if it is a 17.
95 GL, no cruise control, auto. May be AX4S
95 GL, no cruise control, auto. May be AX4S
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Now I have to figure if its 17 bolt trans, 19 bolt trans, and with or w/o speedo cable if it is a 17.
95 GL, no cruise control, auto. May be AX4S
There were only two transmissions ... even though Ford lists 3 or 4. AX4s, AXOD, AXOD-Metric are the same thing, and AX4N is the other transmission.
Aside from seeing what is stamped on the transmission pan, the other way to tell is see how it downshifts.
If you're going 50MPH and stomp on it, the AX4S will downshift 4-3-2. The AX4N will immediately hop to 2nd gear.
In a 95, MOST of them will be the AX4S transmission. There were a few 3.0s that got the AX4N transmission ... that was kind of a test to see how they would do with the introduction of the 3.0 Duratec the next year.
Now I have to figure if its 17 bolt trans, 19 bolt trans, and with or w/o speedo cable if it is a 17.
95 GL, no cruise control, auto. May be AX4S
There were only two transmissions ... even though Ford lists 3 or 4. AX4s, AXOD, AXOD-Metric are the same thing, and AX4N is the other transmission.
Aside from seeing what is stamped on the transmission pan, the other way to tell is see how it downshifts.
If you're going 50MPH and stomp on it, the AX4S will downshift 4-3-2. The AX4N will immediately hop to 2nd gear.
In a 95, MOST of them will be the AX4S transmission. There were a few 3.0s that got the AX4N transmission ... that was kind of a test to see how they would do with the introduction of the 3.0 Duratec the next year.
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