ABS light and Service Advancetrac message came on a few weeks ago on my 2010 Fusion. Noticed at slow speeds coming to a stop the brake pedal pulsing. Hooked up my scanner and pointed to driver side rear wheel speed sensor which I promptly replaced. Pedal issue went away but ABS light stays on and every time I drive the car the Service Advancetrac message and traction control light comes on within 1/4 mile of driving. I check with my scanner and it mentions the wheel speed sensor code but states (not current). Try erasing it but no luck. Tried unhooking the battery terminals and different sequences turning ignition on and off found on internet but no luck. Even took to Advanced Auto and tech hooked up scanner and said he could try and erase the code but there is no code. Have heard something about “hard codes”. Hate to have to pay the dealer to hook the car up just to erase code but not sure I have an option. Anyone have any experiences with this? Thanks, Scott
Fusion Service Advancetrac
- Thread starter wolfehunter
- Start date
Innova 6030P is the scanner and the wss is a Standard Motor Products ALS2371. I see where you may be going with this. Does the wheel speed sensor speak a different language than the ABS system? Gonna have to get a different wss?
Look, a “scanner” that you see at AutoZone reads the engine, OBD II codes. OBD II is a standard that dates to 1995 it requires engine management computers to give standardized codes. Computers, and cars, have advanced since 1995.
On a modern car that OBD II data is somewhere between one and 10% of what is actually going on with the car.
So, a autozone “scan” certainly doesn’t look at the ABS, SRS, or anything else useful beyond an engine misfire.
Find somebody with Ford forscan.
Yeah, you’re gonna have to pay for it. Because if somebody invested several hundred dollars in a scanner that can read the codes, you owe them for their time, and that capability.
On a modern car that OBD II data is somewhere between one and 10% of what is actually going on with the car.
So, a autozone “scan” certainly doesn’t look at the ABS, SRS, or anything else useful beyond an engine misfire.
Find somebody with Ford forscan.
Yeah, you’re gonna have to pay for it. Because if somebody invested several hundred dollars in a scanner that can read the codes, you owe them for their time, and that capability.
The wheel speed sensor is part of the ABS and the traction control, if the input signal is missing, there are a couple of potential causes.
1. The sensor does not see the reluctor ring, because of rust or incorrect gap.
2. The sensor itself if bad.
3. The wiring is bad.
You’ve done all you can with a “scanner” - now you have to actually troubleshoot. Put it on a lift, remove the wheel, look at the reluctor ring, look at the sensor, read out the wiring.
Thanks Astro. I will ask around to see if anyone I know locally has the Ford forscan software. I’d be delighted to reimburse them for their time, effort and expenses as I would be grateful. Just didn’t want to overpay a dealer but might have to go that direction. I got the wss from Rockauto. Going to put it up on jack stands and double check connections, gap and rust.
Like said, get a better diag done on it. As a guess it sounds like the tone ring has rotted off giving the sensor nothing to read off of.
Forscan is in fact pretty cheap IME
Yep you can just buy a month of the advanced features if you want. Carista does something similar with their app.
I wouldn't condemn the sensor unless everything else checks out, and Standard tends to be decent.
However I do ask because WWW had a Nissan truck where it didn't make sense. He put the old OEM sensor in and everything was perfect (obviously there's more to the story as far as why the WSS was ever suspect).
In that case the aftermarket WSS was generating a signal, but apparently not an acceptable signal.
You're right! I could have sworn last time I needed the config functions I bought a month, but my memory sucks.
As you said, it appears a year is $12.
Got the chance today to diagnose. I unplugged the sensor at the wheel and checked teeth on the reluctor ring. They are all there and was not corroded but used some brake cleaner, rag and screwdriver to clean up anyway. Shines like new! Hooked back up to the wheel and then unplugged the other end of the sensor cable which is under the back seat. Checked resistance on that end of the sensor with my multimeter and got 0 ohms. I then switched to volts and spun the wheel and got 0 volts. Did I possibly get a faulty wheel sensor?
The wheel speed sensor is a hall effect sensor. It requires DC voltage which creates a magnetic field. As a tooth on the reluctor ring (it's made of iron) passes through the magnetic field, it disrupts the field which is sensed by the source of the DC voltage.
Sorry about that. Rookie at using multimeter. I get 26.47 ohms on the sensor at rest but when I spin the wheel the ohms reading does not change. I wire brushed the area where the sensor bolts on to in case there was something keeping the sensor from being close enough to the reluctor ring but still no charge in ohms when I spin the wheel. I have the multimeter on auto and there is an “m” in front of the ohms symbol.
Did you reset the code yet? Do that next.
An ELM327 based dongle is about $8 on Amazon or ebay, etc. Makes a bluetooth link to your phone/tablet/laptop/whatever. Wifi version for apple hosts is a little more expensive.
The android or apple version of forscan lite app is about $6 (lifetime not yearly), or windows app is free. You do not need the version with "advanced features" that others mentioned, to just reset codes.
Maybe you have another problem too, but if you haven't reset the code then it is the next thing to try, may be the only issue. I'd recommend getting the dongle and Forscan app for an aging Ford owner that's into DIY even if they didn't have a code to reset.
An ELM327 based dongle is about $8 on Amazon or ebay, etc. Makes a bluetooth link to your phone/tablet/laptop/whatever. Wifi version for apple hosts is a little more expensive.
The android or apple version of forscan lite app is about $6 (lifetime not yearly), or windows app is free. You do not need the version with "advanced features" that others mentioned, to just reset codes.
Maybe you have another problem too, but if you haven't reset the code then it is the next thing to try, may be the only issue. I'd recommend getting the dongle and Forscan app for an aging Ford owner that's into DIY even if they didn't have a code to reset.
I ordered one off Amazon to be delivered Tuesday compatible for an iPhone. Will report back. Thanks to everyone for the assistance.
Update: I took the car to work this morning and within 300 feet after pulling out of my driveway the ABS light went out! I am guessing that cleaning the reluctor ring and removing the corrosion where the wss fastens resolved the issue. The ring was dark colored with road dirt and brake dust and shined new after hitting it with brake cleaner. Thanks to all who helped me out! I now have the Ford Forscan app and the adaptor coming from Amazon for future use.
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