What might this 2018 Subaru Impreza engine noise be caused by?

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Although is might not be obvious, the noise is defiantly coming from the passenger side. Drivers side is pretty quiet. Only put a few hundred miles on it since purchase and it was a LITTLE noisy at first, but not this loud. These are the codes now that come back within a quarter mile of being erased:

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When I checked this morning, it just had P0008 and P0017 stored and as history codes. Today I take it for a short drive and notice this noise and these current codes. Any Subaru experts to shed light on what direction to go? On most cars with timing codes it's usually worn timing chains causing those codes, but with that noise, maybe the cams or lifters?
 
My guess is the left timing chain tensioner going out and that sounds plasticky with the chain rubbing the guides.



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Check this service bulletin, which covers troubleshooting for those codes.

The TSB doesn't mention engine noises, but it could be a problem with the tensioner or a guide. A lot of the initial troubleshooting involves making sure the engine has good oil pressure. If that's the root cause, maybe the noise is a rod bearing.
 
Incredibly unlikely you had a phaser on each bank fail at the same time. Relation codes almost always indicate a chain issue, either stretch or tensioner/guides.

But like twX and that TSB state, all of these could simply be a lack of oil pressure so sanity check that first.
 
Thanks for the links, got a lot of reading to do. That timing chain job looks easy compared to any I've done before, but the video is with the engine out of the car. Wonder how much harder it is in the car.
 
Thanks for the links, got a lot of reading to do. That timing chain job looks easy compared to any I've done before, but the video is with the engine out of the car. Wonder how much harder it is in the car.
I would try to rule out rod knock before messing with the timing system, because if that's what the noise is, the engine will have to be pulled anyway. Do an oil and filter change, and cut the old filter open to check for metal.

That cheap oil filter won't have the proper bypass rating for this engine, and could be bypassing unfiltered oil, which will be damaging the rest of the engine if there's a lot of metal in the oil. If enough larger stuff is able to bypass the filter, that can also lead to clogging of the cam oil screens, which can be a cause of some of the codes you have. Replace it with an OEM filter or a PurolatorOne PL14615.
 
Thanks for the links, got a lot of reading to do. That timing chain job looks easy compared to any I've done before, but the video is with the engine out of the car. Wonder how much harder it is in the car.
I believe you have done transmissions before so it should be a cakewalk. Subaru engines come out pretty easy.
 
Possibly unpopular opinion but I would run a flush or cleaning product through it and change the oil and see if there are any changes before potentially pulling the engine and removing cam carrier to replace avcs screen filter. OP, does the oil fill hole or anything else suggest a cleanliness issue?
 
I'll start with an oil and filter change if for nothing else but to clean up the inside if I do take it apart. If I take the timing cover off, will it be pretty obvious what is causing the noise? i.e. chains way too loose.
 
I'll start with an oil and filter change if for nothing else but to clean up the inside if I do take it apart. If I take the timing cover off, will it be pretty obvious what is causing the noise? i.e. chains way too loose.
if there is slack in the chains from tensioner when cover is removed it may be misleading as the tensioner is fed oil and will have more tension when running. Since your noise is with the engine running can you hook up an oil pressure gauge before tearing apart to verify proper oil pressure?
 
I have an oil pressure tester somewhere, just have to find where to connect it. The tensioners have a ratcheting mechanism to take up most of the slack even when not running.
 
There's a TSB with an update to the oil pressure test procedure that shows the minimum pressures with warm oil.

Here's the diagnostic procedure for engine noise for the FA20. Should be the same for the FB. I'd focus on the highlighted ones based on what I hear in the video. Not sure if your scanner supports disabling fuel injectors like it suggests.

Engine Noise Diagnostics.jpg
 
Hey guys where is the oil pressure port and thread size on the FB motor
Under the oil filter mount, older EJ had it under the alternator the thread size for all is 1/8 BSP, it is not NPT. You must use ether a BSP to NPT adapter or have a gauge/sending unit with BSP threads. This adapter is not included with many pressure testing kits.

 
Thanks for the links, got a lot of reading to do. That timing chain job looks easy compared to any I've done before, but the video is with the engine out of the car. Wonder how much harder it is in the car.
Shouldn’t be that hard to pull, IIRC @Trav or someone else who’s done it a lot has mentioned he could have an EJ out of the car in about 90 minutes. If you do the chains and tensioners, please take pics!👍🏻
 
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