Much simpler to drive in a bolt if you have the room, then it would be to install a stud and hope the installation tool comes off without unscrewing the stud with it.
A Bolt smaller than 8 X 1.25mm. I looked in my tap n die kit. I see a 6 X 1.00mm. not comfortable with the 1.00mm. I would need the sae equivalent of a 1.25 pitch with a 12mm head?Much simpler to drive in a bolt if you have the room, then it would be to install a stud and hope the installation tool comes off without unscrewing the stud with it.
You are almost there keep going with the next size up until only the threads are left then pick them out.I Had an Exhaust Leak, I attemped to remove the Broken Stub, It snapped off in the Head. I drilled out a hole for an easy out. I had a drill bit break off in the hole. I used a dremmel tool to remove the broken drill bit. This is where I am at, close to the threads, how should I proceed?
Why? the 6 x 1.00mm threads you will cut have nothing to do with the original M8 stud.A Bolt smaller than 8 X 1.25mm. I looked in my tap n die kit. I see a 6 X 1.00mm. not comfortable with the 1.00mm. I would need the sae equivalent of a 1.25 pitch with a 12mm head?
So a fine pitch 1.00 will be strong enough? I can't find a 6mm 1.25 pitch boltsWhy? the 6 x 1.00mm threads you will cut have nothing to do with the original M8 stud.
I think you should use the bolt that you already have and just add 2 or 3 washers to compensate for the added length. By using a bolt instead of a stud, it should remind you (or signify to a mechanic/future owner) that it is not a standard OEM fastener.Now should I order a stud or just use a Bolt. The Bolt that I have was just a bit long.
I would have needed to drill out the remaining stud, not sure if I would have been able to Tap the hole as a 8mm thread after that. I did not want to go oversized then need to install an insert. I have no experience doing that. Right now I will be steel on steel with coarser threads than a 6-1.00mm bolt. The old stud was effectively welded in, I will keep an eye on it. I ordered some high quality ARP bolts, not to crazy about the hardware store grade 8 bolt that I sourced locally.A 1/4-20 bolt is not a good alternative for an 8mm stud, longivity may be an issue. Having to do a job twice sucks.
A 1/4-20 bolt is not a good alternative for an 8mm stud, longivity may be an issue. Having to do a job twice sucks.
Thanks for the compliment, the car is actually my daughter's, we picked it up in Arizona a couple months ago. It's a special car, mostly everything has been restored with OEM Honda parts. Steering rack, clutch, timing components, all suspension bushings, springs, AC system, PS pump, suspension bushings. The body is flawless. I did swap out the exhaust manifold and A pipe with used parts. The EX manifold just flows better. This is a 1995, I also have a 1993 with 280k that I daily drive and 1991 with only 110k on it. Great cars that are relatively easy to work on.It will be interesting to see how long this bolt lasts instead of a stud. Studs by their very nature can withstand much greater pressure than a bolt (without going into all the physics/engineering of it). But let us know how long this fix lasts. The biggest part and I know from previous experience is the relief that you got it done! congrats. I bet that feels awesome! love how clean that 93 accord looks! Nothing like that here in Michigan! I know, rust.. but just wow
Next time I will drill out a little bit more and attempt to tap with 8X 1.25. the alternator and PS pump are easy to remove on this car.I think every F22B2 engine on the planet has a broken stud at that position. I'm not sure why but they do. Good that you got it done, I had to so that on my old Accord but I used a Helicoil and a replacement Honda stud.