Ok so I may have jumped the gun on my last post, I don't have the truck yet and had only looked at it briefly one day a few weeks ago, but I went to take a closer look today and I'll be picking it up in two weeks. It turns out it's the 2.3L 4cyl, and only has 108,000 miles on it... do all of the old recommendations still apply? I've narrowed it down to Rotella T5 10w30, Maxlife, or M1 HM...will 10w30 still be ok for this 4cyl?(to recap, it'll be my around town, to and from work, vehicle.....mostly city driven, 10-15 miles round trip daily)
1989 Ranger update
- Thread starter Stang40
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Yep. The same oil choices are applicable.
To be honest the 2.3 isn't a powerhouse however its very durable and I would have to put it in the same league as the 302 in the reliability department.
It's a non-interference engine so you can basically drive it til the belt breaks which in the end means you don't have to stress about it and its a pretty simple procedure so if you can turn a wrench and read pages of instructions off the net you are all set.
To be honest the 2.3 isn't a powerhouse however its very durable and I would have to put it in the same league as the 302 in the reliability department.
It's a non-interference engine so you can basically drive it til the belt breaks which in the end means you don't have to stress about it and its a pretty simple procedure so if you can turn a wrench and read pages of instructions off the net you are all set.
Your oil choices are fine. I'd start with the T5 and move to the HM stuff if you have leaks.
75w-90 is just fine.
75w-90 is just fine.
I have a 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed. Great little 2wd pup. You can easily run the T5 or Maxlife. As Bandito440 said, i would run teh t5 unless you have leaks or consumption issues, then use the HM stuff. I have 230xxx miles and am using Maxlife at the moment due too age and it used 1/2 quart too just under a quart between changes. Since adding the Maxlife, have kept eye on the oil level, hasnt moved yet in two months.I did do alot of other PM as well, plugs, wires, filters, radiator empty-refill, and other things i cant remember atm. Could be a combination of all the PM and Maxlife, who knows.
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Originally Posted By: Stang40
and on a side note...rear diff calls for 80w90....wanted to run a syn, will 75w90 hurt anything?
Amsoil makes a syn 80w90, which I happen to be running in my rebadged ranger.
and on a side note...rear diff calls for 80w90....wanted to run a syn, will 75w90 hurt anything?
Amsoil makes a syn 80w90, which I happen to be running in my rebadged ranger.
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Forgot to mention, if it is a manual makes sure you research the issue with the rubber transmission plugs. FWIHR, they dry rot and fluid leaks out and damages the transmission.
The md50r1 calls for mercon originally. I have one too. Most ford users scream use merconv.
this may help....
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/3079244/
this is a manual transmission?
this may help....
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/3079244/
this is a manual transmission?
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it's the mazda m5od r1.
That's the one.
http://www.ranger-forums.com/drivetrain-...ice-fix-130140/
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/shift_rail_plug_maintenance.htm
There are two ways of fixing it; replace the plugs with "purchased from Ford" replacements and silicone seal or access the transmission from the top and put in freeze plugs.
Best to climb under there and feel around where the shifter goes into the transmission for leaking fluid or dry rotted plugs.
it's the mazda m5od r1.
That's the one.
http://www.ranger-forums.com/drivetrain-...ice-fix-130140/
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/shift_rail_plug_maintenance.htm
There are two ways of fixing it; replace the plugs with "purchased from Ford" replacements and silicone seal or access the transmission from the top and put in freeze plugs.
Best to climb under there and feel around where the shifter goes into the transmission for leaking fluid or dry rotted plugs.
I'm puzzled at the love for the Ranger. The internet claims it is reliable but other than that it's a pretty mediocre ride.
The 2.3 2WD is unmatched for practicality, utility and economy; it never made any claims of being more.
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They are great beaters. Good mileage cheap parts easy too maintenance. I could go on and on. Its not going too win awards for towing or smooth ride but it certainly fits my needs for two seater that can carry some junk in the bed if need be. Fun project vehicles too customize too. Sad too see ford stop making them imo.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Yep. The same oil choices are applicable.
To be honest the 2.3 isn't a powerhouse however its very durable and I would have to put it in the same league as the 302 in the reliability department.
It's a non-interference engine so you can basically drive it til the belt breaks which in the end means you don't have to stress about it and its a pretty simple procedure so if you can turn a wrench and read pages of instructions off the net you are all set.
My cousin had two that snapped the timing belt. Each of them he was driving down the road and both times, it just died.
One of them either passed or was close to 400K when he got rid of it. And that was because it was just too rusty and the front suspension was shot.
Yep. The same oil choices are applicable.
To be honest the 2.3 isn't a powerhouse however its very durable and I would have to put it in the same league as the 302 in the reliability department.
It's a non-interference engine so you can basically drive it til the belt breaks which in the end means you don't have to stress about it and its a pretty simple procedure so if you can turn a wrench and read pages of instructions off the net you are all set.
My cousin had two that snapped the timing belt. Each of them he was driving down the road and both times, it just died.
One of them either passed or was close to 400K when he got rid of it. And that was because it was just too rusty and the front suspension was shot.
I just put RP synchromax in my 5sp this weekend, having replaced the Red Line D4 that was in there for about 50K. For some reason, I missed all the negative reviews about RP Synchromax on the site.... Good shifting characteristics, but apparently it degrades as time goes on. We'll see in about 20K if it is holding up.
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Pennzoil Synchromesh in mine now.
Before i changed it, it was a little hard getting into 1st gear, sometimes 2nd gear. After changing it and driving it 100 miles, it shifts with no issues or stiffness.
I thought i was going too have too replace the clutch, upon reading up and talking too Molakule here and speaking too mechanic friend, i changed the fluid too synchromesh.
Stuff that came out was nasty. If it were mine, i would get pennzoil synchromesh and empty-refill it. Never made sense too me too put ATF in a manual transmission.
No, I dont believe im more intelligent than the engineers who made them, jsut read the forums of all the issues people have with these transmissions all who swear by using merconv atf.... thats when i came here and asked.
Before i changed it, it was a little hard getting into 1st gear, sometimes 2nd gear. After changing it and driving it 100 miles, it shifts with no issues or stiffness.
I thought i was going too have too replace the clutch, upon reading up and talking too Molakule here and speaking too mechanic friend, i changed the fluid too synchromesh.
Stuff that came out was nasty. If it were mine, i would get pennzoil synchromesh and empty-refill it. Never made sense too me too put ATF in a manual transmission.
No, I dont believe im more intelligent than the engineers who made them, jsut read the forums of all the issues people have with these transmissions all who swear by using merconv atf.... thats when i came here and asked.
I know my local AZ has synchromesh, so I guess I'll go with that...it'll. End up being cheaper than the Mobil 1 atf I was gonna use. I'm prob gonna use something like valvoline 80w90 durablend in the diff, unless anyone has any other suggestions...its the best thing I can find locally in that grade
I think another recommended fluid is Amsoil MTL; I haven't tried it in my B2300. I'd rather use something that has a viscosity closer to what the mfg has specified.
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